L92 Truck engine in my 2010?

[DJ A]

What's up guys, so a few weeks ago I blew the motor on my 2010 M6 and have been searching for a new one since. I recently came across an L92 long block and from what I understand it's pretty much an LS3 with VVT, solid valves, truck intake/pulley/timing cover, and smaller cam.
So everything that is salvageable from my LS3 is my Timing set (3-bolt Sprocket/C5R chain/LS2 tensioner), Melling oil pump, Intake, 14/16 valves, 14/16 lifters, PRC .660 lift springs/Titanium retainers, TSP Pushrods and rockers. My cam I'm pretty is trashed considering the last lifter is jammed into the block and I can't take the cam out.
Ultimatley my question is, since the L92 is a Gen IV block, would it be a direct swap into my Camaro and would it pretty much be an LS3 if I removed VVT and swapped out all the parts I listed as good? I know the pistons are different since they have valve reliefs vs the LS3 flat tops but what difference does that make? CR?

[2010reddevil]

Slightly lower CR because of the reliefs. Swap your LS3 parts over and it will be basically the same thing. Gonna need a new oil pan I bet. If it were me, I'd actually consider keeping the VVT. Would be interesting to see how much power under the curve you could get that way. Will definitely take a custom tune.

[DJ A]

If I were to keep VVT, would I just need a VVT cam and reuse the timing cover the 92 comes with or is there more to it than just that? I know I would need a phase limiter as well, but what else?

[Currey]

Originally Posted by DJ A

What's up guys, so a few weeks ago I blew the motor on my 2010 M6 and have been searching for a new one since. I recently came across an L92 long block and from what I understand it's pretty much an LS3 with VVT, solid valves, truck intake/pulley/timing cover, and smaller cam.
So everything that is salvageable from my LS3 is my Timing set (3-bolt Sprocket/C5R chain/LS2 tensioner), Melling oil pump, Intake, 14/16 valves, 14/16 lifters, PRC .660 lift springs/Titanium retainers, TSP Pushrods and rockers. My cam I'm pretty is trashed considering the last lifter is jammed into the block and I can't take the cam out.
Ultimatley my question is, since the L92 is a Gen IV block, would it be a direct swap into my Camaro and would it pretty much be an LS3 if I removed VVT and swapped out all the parts I listed as good? I know the pistons are different since they have valve reliefs vs the LS3 flat tops but what difference does that make? CR?

For learning purposes, care to share the details???

[DJ A]

Originally Posted by Currey

For learning purposes, care to share the details???

Ya don't really know what happened. I was on my way to work and getting off the freeway I shifted from 4th to 3rd and RPMs went up to 3500-4000 and a second or two later the car lost power, oil pressure, and a huge white cloud behind me. Shut the car off immediately and heard nasty grinding. I took it apart last week and #7 piston was completely shattered inside the intake and the rest of it was sitting on the crank. Hole in my block as well as a valve gone, head far from fixable, and lifter jammed into the block. In other words the engine is pretty much scrap. Maybe the other 7 piston and rods survived but I have to take them out and inspect. Honestly don't know what it was, I mean I know I was hard on my car but I wasn't always racing or redlining it and at 450rwhp with 50k miles, I think it should have had a lot more life left. I only used shell or chevron, never on E, and changed oil every 3k with Mobil1.

[Currey]

Originally Posted by DJ A

Ya don't really know what happened. I was on my way to work and getting off the freeway I shifted from 4th to 3rd and RPMs went up to 3500-4000 and a second or two later the car lost power, oil pressure, and a huge white cloud behind me. Shut the car off immediately and heard nasty grinding. I took it apart last week and #7 piston was completely shattered inside the intake and the rest of it was sitting on the crank. Hole in my block as well as a valve gone, head far from fixable, and lifter jammed into the block. In other words the engine is pretty much scrap. Maybe the other 7 piston and rods survived but I have to take them out and inspect. Honestly don't know what it was, I mean I know I was hard on my car but I wasn't always racing or redlining it and at 450rwhp with 50k miles, I think it should have had a lot more life left. I only used shell or chevron, never on E, and changed oil every 3k with Mobil1.

I wouldn't say that downshift itself was all that hard on it. Sounds like there was probably a pre existing condition.

[JCunningham]

i would not be using the oil pump from the blown LS3. remember to put a pilot bearing in the crank.

[christianchevell]

Look up "Junk yard LS builds" as I have read some pretty good articles that will answer your questions, and BTW I use driven racing oil ls30. I do a break in on a new engine or just cam also. Most likely you had a spring break.... There also are complete engines for $6500ish with all the works as far as crates stock from fuel injectors to pan.

Downshifting at higher rpm's can easily go way above the rev limit as its mechanical not electronically limited, doing this too much can greatly reduce the life of your springs and if you check and lots of the pushrods are slightly bent.... well they were bent from overrevs... Yes things suck. I got my engine from Jerry the internet guy of Ebay but hey he is legit at SAG performance group/custom engine supply and the bare block was like $1300 but he is in Indiana , and built it from there for a stroker forged and it was about 5 grand shipped with all said and done just for a short block no pan etc....

I would not reuse about anything from the upper valve train as that cylinder all the rockers...trash them, the lifters ditch them all, the pushrods, cam, and closely inspect all the other stock rockers as you may have lost bearings on the trunnion to cause this or a lifter collapse, or a cam defect or oiling defect causing failure.... And if you put a bad part in a new heavy investment your asking for trouble.

Good Luck what ever you do, here I will throw you a bone...

http://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-st...ags-to-riches/

[RichSS2006]

I was in a similar situation with a blown engine. I wouldn't have even considered a used motor. After all of the parts swapping, checking of various components and buying new ones to make it all work, it may be cheaper and easier to buy a new Chevrolet crate engine. I got a 480hp LS3 for $6500. And it comes with 24 month warranty. Everything was included except the front accessories. How can you go wrong? Do you really want to fire up a used engine only to find out it smokes like an old school bus? Just my two cents. Hope it all turns out well for you. Let us know what you decide.

[3rdgen3]

Sounds like you dropped a valve or 2 which is why the piston shattered. Possibly valve spring failure?

This is why everyone should run dual springs, I love my BTR .660 platinums.

As for the L92 yes you can make it work easily in your 2010.

[DJ A]

Thanks for the advice guys and for the link to "Junkyard LS builds" it was a good read. As for the dropped valve, I think you're right because one is completely missing, but the spring didn't break anywhere and yes they're dual springs so even if one broke, the valve should've stayed in place right? Anyways thanks again for the input and advice guys. After reading that article, I think I'm gonna go with my original plan and build an LY6 block. Do you guys think it would be ok to re use the intake manifold?

[DJ A]

Actually never mind the spring did break, but still, shouldn't the second spring have "caught it"?

[Synner]

It prevents it from fully dropping immediately but it also doesn't have enough force to properly control the valve, especially at higher rpm like 4k.

[DJ A]

Dang, oh well I have to pay the price for it. I was looking at setups and I don't know whether to go with a 408 LY6 or 427 LY6. I feel like the 427 would get me to 500rwhp a lot easier as well as better torque. I'm also having trouble deciding on what CR to go with. I hear lower for boost and higher for N/A. The thing is, for now I'm gonna be running N/A and maybe a year or two down the road I wanna go centri. 15psi at the most. I only want to make 750-850rwhp. So I was thinking of going around 9.9:1 - 10.0:1ish?