Break-in question

[2015_1LE_soon]

Hey boys! First post on this site, and I've got my 1le on order.

It should arrive in about a month. I've been hearing different things from doesn't people, and I just want clarity. I plan to change the oil from the factory synthetic, and just in out in conventional oil for the first 700km or so, and then switch back to synthetic.

Am I doing more harm than good by throwing out the new synthetic or not?

Lastly, do I need to buy a magnetic drain plug or does the LS3 come with one?

Thanks guys.

Sam

[Avenging Orange]

You will get lots of different answers on this subject. I have never been a fan of synthetics as break in oil. Even GM has drifted away from it. You are doing exactly what I have done in my last 2 new cars that came with synthetic factory fill (except I never went back to syn). You will not hurt anything going this route. Enjoy your new ride!

[Ragnar]

That is what I did, changed my oil at 36 miles and then the Redline and added the magnetic plug. At 582 miles, look what the plug got! Next oil change will be with Amsoil!

[trashmanssd]

Yeah you will get answers from dont even drive it to drive it like you stole it.

My self I just drive it like I plan to the entire time I own it. I just try to avoid WOT and extended idling and cruise control.

[2015_1LE_soon]

Thanks guys - any specific or recommended type of non-synthetic oil for the first oil change?

[wakespeak]

Just change it early and often when new. I changed at 500, 1500, and 3000 miles. These engines make a lot of metal when new, some by design after reading a post on the design of the ls3. Use the cheapest dexos rated oil you can find then use pure synthetic after 3000 or 5000 miles is my recommendation.

[Russell James]

Originally Posted by 2015_1LE_soon

Thanks guys - any specific or recommended type of non-synthetic oil for the first oil change?

Stick with synthetic or dexos semi synthetic.

Non synthetic break in oil is more for racing engines with different processes in the build. The cylinder honing methods used, clearances, rings, piston coatings... all dictate the break in process and what type of oil to use.

A modern production engine uses plateau honing, coated pistons, low tension rings.... all stuff that is aimed at dexos/semi sythetic or full synthetic.

Old style of peak/valley honing and high tension rings, big bearing clearances.... that style of build needs a non synthetic to wear in the rings to the rough cyl cross hatching.

Back in the 60's and 70's old Harleys use to smoke like crazy when brand new until you went out and beat the hell out of it to wear in the rings and cylinder hone. They used chrome rings that were hard as a rock, and honing so rough it needed to be wore down.

When I buy a new car. Day 1, I put in a magnetic drain plug. Somewhere around 1000 miles I change the oil. There are plenty of top
quality synthetics that are also dexos. I like Amsoil Signature Series, Joe Gibbs Driven. 5w30 for winter, 10w30 for summer temps, 15w50 for racing.

Break in on a modern car... Just drive it normal. No extremes. Everything in between is fine.

[Spartan01]

“Welcome to the party, pal.”
-John McClane


The LS3 does not come with a magnetic oil plug. You can get a replacement at most auto parts stores (I think it is the same as the Corvette plug) for around $5

For regular, no racing use, I would drive it casually for around 500-1500 miles, then change all the fluids to high end stuff such as Red Line, AmsOil, etc.
That is oil, differential fluid (gear oil), clutch fluid (upgrade to DOT 4), you may also want to separate the clutch fluid reservoir from the brake fluid reservoir, brake fluid and transmission fluid.

[mbowen89]

How do you replace the oil plug with a magnetic one right away, without draining the oil? Just do it as fast as you can and replace what managed to escape?

[Russell James]

Originally Posted by mbowen89

How do you replace the oil plug with a magnetic one right away, without draining the oil? Just do it as fast as you can and replace what managed to escape?

Yes

[Spartan01]

Originally Posted by mbowen89

How do you replace the oil plug with a magnetic one right away, without draining the oil? Just do it as fast as you can and replace what managed to escape?

Exactly.
Have the new plug in one hand,
loosen the old one, but hold it in place with finger pressure to keep most of the oil from leaking out,
then pull the old one out and put the new one in.
I lost around an ounce of oil doing it this way, maybe less.

[Bretts]

OH BOY HERE WE GO again! lol!
welcome! great choice and these are strong motors ,I did the seat the rings on the crosshatch asap before they dull process, 1000kms and its finally got that great compression response over last 100 or so kms ,and no oil traces in intake or recently installed catchcan, but the factory way is probably safer.

[Spartan01]

Oh yeah, add a catch can immediately.

Technically you do not need a catch can, but if you do not add one, odds are this will happen:

[Indydriver]

Your purchase includes four dealer provided oil changes in two years, typically with ACDelco brand semi-Syn. There is no reason not to take advantage of them. Space them out however it makes you feel good. I've done 1,000 and 4,000 so far.

You've got an EIGHT QUART sump. It takes a lot of very aggressive running to wear out 8 qts of oil. After the four dealer OCs, I will DIY with M1 and Wix once per year before winter.