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Old 09-22-2016, 01:17 AM   #29
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After this tune do you have a seat of the pants feel of increased performance or any other indication of a performance enhancement???
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Old 09-22-2016, 08:30 AM   #30
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SAE correction tell you what the car would make at sealevel at specific weather conditions. You can look up the numbers but it is something like 75F and 25% RH. It also takes into account barometer and air density. It is used so people can more easily compare numbers, but that isn't what the car actually made unless you dyno in those conditions. The higher elevation, the less dense the air, so correction goes up. In theory, if he took his car to sealevel, and in that specific perfect weather, it would make that power. For injector/etc you need to look at uncorrected power, as that is actual power that car is making.

Yes if he is making ~600rwhp corrected, and ~500 uncorrected, and has fuel for 550, and goes to sealevel, he will then run lean and could risk popping a motor.

He should have noticed a huge difference in performance, because he will still getting hit with the downsides of high elevation before and after. Figure 20% off the 480 if he was stock. That is why cars at 5k+ ft run 1+ second slower than sealevel.
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Old 09-22-2016, 11:37 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unreal View Post
SAE correction tell you what the car would make at sealevel at specific weather conditions. You can look up the numbers but it is something like 75F and 25% RH. It also takes into account barometer and air density. It is used so people can more easily compare numbers, but that isn't what the car actually made unless you dyno in those conditions. The higher elevation, the less dense the air, so correction goes up. In theory, if he took his car to sealevel, and in that specific perfect weather, it would make that power. For injector/etc you need to look at uncorrected power, as that is actual power that car is making.

Yes if he is making ~600rwhp corrected, and ~500 uncorrected, and has fuel for 550, and goes to sealevel, he will then run lean and could risk popping a motor.

He should have noticed a huge difference in performance, because he will still getting hit with the downsides of high elevation before and after. Figure 20% off the 480 if he was stock. That is why cars at 5k+ ft run 1+ second slower than sealevel.
Thanks for the response...So in essence would it be correct to say that due to the elevation his car has never made the RWHP of a stock ZL1 and/or that his mods could have increased the car's performance but at much less than the expected RWHP #???
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Old 09-22-2016, 12:54 PM   #32
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Maybe the mods brought it up to stock zl1 level, maybe not. He needs to look at the correction factor on the dyno, or look at uncorrected numbers. Could be 15%, could be 20%, could be 25+%. Depends on the day, weather, elevation/etc.
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:33 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unreal View Post
Maybe the mods brought it up to stock zl1 level, maybe not. He needs to look at the correction factor on the dyno, or look at uncorrected numbers. Could be 15%, could be 20%, could be 25+%. Depends on the day, weather, elevation/etc.
Check...
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Old 09-25-2016, 01:31 AM   #34
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SOTP feel was a little better. After a couple days, the CEL came back on P015b. Overboost.

Digging in to everything that was changed to see if it was mechanical, and found the boost controller had a bad diaphragm. (I used a spare snout to install the new pulley to make the install quicker) Swapped the controller back from my stock snout, and problem went away. The blade inside the snout was staying 100% closed all the time.

Going back on the dyno in a few days to verify the first set of numbers. I'll get the correction factor as well.
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Old 09-25-2016, 01:43 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSmokinSS View Post
SOTP feel was a little better. After a couple days, the CEL came back on P015b. Overboost.

Digging in to everything that was changed to see if it was mechanical, and found the boost controller had a bad diaphragm. (I used a spare snout to install the new pulley to make the install quicker) Swapped the controller back from my stock snout, and problem went away. The blade inside the snout was staying 100% closed all the time.

Going back on the dyno in a few days to verify the first set of numbers. I'll get the correction factor as well.
I never but any thought to the boost controller and it being internal...I have a turbo charged Hayabusa with a Velocity Kit that came with an internal boost controller, the diaphragm went bad on it and it cost me a motor...Should have been set at 8pds but went to over 20pds, melted pistons, and a rod thru the cases...Must put this on my check list...Good info...
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