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Old 06-06-2014, 03:20 PM   #57
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Get a real dampner if you're worried about your chain.
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:35 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Synner View Post
Get a real dampner if you're worried about your chain.
Don't you have to pull the oil pump to replace the dampener? I have a LS2 dampener sitting on my desk, but if it requires removing the oil pump I will probably just keep the stock one.

EDIT: It looks like it might be possible to get to the dampener bolts w/o removing the oil pump, but the angle of the picture in the cam swap diy makes it hard to tell.
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:43 AM   #59
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When I did my L99 to LS3 conversion I reused my L99 oil pump. Working perfect with no issues. I think one over looked thing when doing a cam swap is priming the oil system. What is everyone doing? Stick the cam in and start it up and wait till the oil pressure comes up?? You can purchase a oil pump primer at Harbor Freight for less than $10.00. Cheap insurance and you have instant oil pressure when starting the engine after install a new cam and valvetrain.
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Old 06-07-2014, 09:46 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motogplvr View Post
Don't you have to pull the oil pump to replace the dampener? I have a LS2 dampener sitting on my desk, but if it requires removing the oil pump I will probably just keep the stock one.

EDIT: It looks like it might be possible to get to the dampener bolts w/o removing the oil pump, but the angle of the picture in the cam swap diy makes it hard to tell.
The pump must be removed to get the bolts out for the dampener.

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Old 06-07-2014, 09:48 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motogplvr View Post
Don't you have to pull the oil pump to replace the dampener? I have a LS2 dampener sitting on my desk, but if it requires removing the oil pump I will probably just keep the stock one.

EDIT: It looks like it might be possible to get to the dampener bolts w/o removing the oil pump, but the angle of the picture in the cam swap diy makes it hard to tell.
I'm talking harmonic balancer, aka dampner, not chain tensioner.
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Old 06-07-2014, 10:30 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LSX Camaro View Post
When I did my L99 to LS3 conversion I reused my L99 oil pump. Working perfect with no issues. I think one over looked thing when doing a cam swap is priming the oil system. What is everyone doing? Stick the cam in and start it up and wait till the oil pressure comes up?? You can purchase a oil pump primer at Harbor Freight for less than $10.00. Cheap insurance and you have instant oil pressure when starting the engine after install a new cam and valvetrain.
I left the plugs disconnected and unplugged the injectors and cranked the motor over for about 45 seconds before I fired the car. No mechanical gauge though... so I don't really know how well that works. Better than nothing probably!
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Old 06-07-2014, 03:40 PM   #63
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I like threads like this. There seems to be good enough information to support both sides. But for me, after reading all this, there are just too many people who have had issues with the stock pump to validate me using a stock pump. If it were just one or two then fine. But there's just too many. Nobody goes into a cam (or any other install) with just enough money. There's always a buffer amount of money just in case. Therefore, since the engine is already apart, and you're already spending a good amount of money, you might as well just get the high volume pump to be on the safe side.
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Old 06-08-2014, 09:31 AM   #64
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Yes, the body bolts to the block, but you have to center the gears on the crank before you crank the bolts. Best way to do it is get all 4 bolts in but don't tighten it all the way. Turn the crank over by hand a couple revolutions. That usually does a good job centering the pump gears on the crank. Get 2 feeler gauges and I believe its the .002 shim you use. Insert one on one side of the pump gear and one on the otherside. If they both fit, you're centered. Ill double check that shim number though.

Its good to verify the tolerances for the pump, but...

The problem with these pumps and even with aftermarket pumps is that debris can become lodged in the relief cylinder between the wall and the piston. Doesn't matter what pump you install in there, they all have the exact same relief system.

Opening up an engine and exposing it to contamination will greatly increase your chances of a failure without a doubt - theres a lot of opportunity for foreign objects and debris to enter into the oiling system. I always advise people to liberally apply engine degreaser to their engine back followed up by a pressure washer (wrap the electrical connections) prior to putting the engine under the knife. Use tape to cover areas you don't want debris to enter once its open. Once the engine is back together, I always change the oil prior to start up. Minimizing the exposure can help increase your odds of success.
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Old 06-12-2014, 01:52 PM   #65
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i have seen too many stock pumps just randomly stick the relief valve, so we cant consider re-installing the stock pump during a cam install. So to keep the finger pointing at a minimum, all our cam packages we install include a new melling pump..
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:33 PM   #66
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i have seen too many stock pumps just randomly stick the relief valve, so we cant consider re-installing the stock pump during a cam install. So to keep the finger pointing at a minimum, all our cam packages we install include a new melling pump..
Yep, going with the Melling oil pump on my new build. Ryan the junkyard 6.2L gave up the ghost on my 65 Skylark. Putting in a 427 short block. See you later this Summer for another tune.
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Old 06-12-2014, 02:39 PM   #67
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Yep, going with the Melling oil pump on my new build. Ryan the junkyard 6.2L gave up the ghost on my 65 Skylark. Putting in a 427 short block. See you later this Summer for another tune.
guessing a bearing of some kind?? i see that a lot with junkyard motors, as sometimes they will run upside down with little to no oil pressure in a roll over situation.... you'll want to run melling pt# 10296 if you're not running oil squirters , if you are then pt# 10355
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Old 06-12-2014, 03:39 PM   #68
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guessing a bearing of some kind?? i see that a lot with junkyard motors, as sometimes they will run upside down with little to no oil pressure in a roll over situation.... you'll want to run melling pt# 10296 if you're not running oil squirters , if you are then pt# 10355
Yes, rod knock. Yes on the Melling 10296.
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Old 06-12-2014, 07:01 PM   #69
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I am running the Nightfury VVT cam with the stock pump, no problems. I asked the guys at Lethal Racing about changing it but they said it would be Ok with the stock pump.
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Old 06-12-2014, 11:43 PM   #70
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i bough one of these to aline the oil pump http://www.saccitycorvette.com/Timin...nmenttool.html
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