Removing front seats? For Dynamat Extreme..

[ToolFan66]

I started to remove my front seats, I started to loosen the T-50 bolts and it sounds like the nuts are loose. I'm sure they are caged nuts but I wanted to see if someone could confirm this before I moved forward.

Last thing I want to do is lose a nut inside the body frame

The T-50 bolts are in there big time I'm guessing lock tight..

Thanks for the help..



I have already installed Dynamat in the trunk area all the way to the front of the rear seat and would like to finish underneath the carpet.

I also pulled the door panels and did behind the speakers, I also added some BlackHole 5, made a big difference in the sound of the stereo..

[sene]

You won't lose them. I had the same thing happen when I removed the seats. And impact gun is your friend.

[ToolFan66]

Thanks!!

[ToolFan66]

Originally Posted by sene

You won't lose them. I had the same thing happen when I removed the seats. And impact gun is your friend.

I used an electric impact, talk about making things easier the bolts came out in seconds..

The car sounds so much better with the Dynamat installed worth the work it takes to do this..

[montej23]

where did you use the dynomat at and how much did you buy?

[Ozzie RS]

On a different note I have heard the best place to start on the Dynomat is the back side panels and the front doors. I would have thought the trunk would be the first place to start. Can you say if that is true or not? Did you do the trunk first and then later the side panels, or do them both at the same time? Thanks for the info.

[14pilot]

Biggest bang for the buck was the trunk, rear shelve, quarters and under the rear seat.

Then then doors. Last under the carpet, kicks and firewall. Might as well do the headliner at this time, since with the front seats and console out, you can get the headliner out the passenger side.

I also plan to do the rear half of my front wheel liners. That will be last of it for me... ?

[myold88]

Dynamat is the first thing I did on my Camaro almost 3 years ago.
I did from the front carpets back 100% of everyhing I could reach.
I never did do under the front seats.
Car is so quiet on the interstatres now.
Do a search under raammat &/or dynamat.

[chevyswagger]

i reapohlstered the seats in my car so i bought the socket to remove the seat and all i did was srtip them out they are hard to get at (wierd angled) so i screwed them back in as much as i could and just did the inerior in the car in arizona in 105 degree wheather ...:( the things we do for our cars

[BUZZCAMARO]

I removed the front seats in mine, and I don't know why any of the threads don't mention this about removing the T-50 nuts:

I used a propane torch, heated up the heads of the bolts for about 30 seconds, than used a small socket wrench with T50 torx head. The bolts came out really easy..just don't touch them for about 5 minutes cause they get really hot.

I had zero issues with anything burning or damaged, as most everybody has a propane torch, this seems like a no-brainer but I have not read 1 post here suggesting doing this.

I have read a few posts which stated that they had stripped the heads of the bolts, especially when trying to use an impact wrench.

Wow, I'm not evan a mechanic but using a propane torch to melt the Locktite on them was the first thing to pop into my head.

Tips and tricks: adjust your torch so that it's blue portion of the flame is only about 3/4", your not sweating copper pipes so there is no need to over-heat them, just get them hot.

Turn the flame OFF everytime you set it down, it's easy to get distracted and forget that flame, but it's easy to re-light it.

Steel holds heat for a looooooong time, so I suggest you loosen a bolt to about where it's ready for removal but leave it in there till it cools (5 min.)..move on to loosing the next bolt.

After done you can put the bolts into a vise and use a wire-wheel brush with cordless to remove the gunked on orange locktight.

The plug under the seat is real easy to remove, it's the big one with rectangular shape. The thing on the side slides over than it just pops out. That plug stays with the seat, no need to dissmantle any of the other connection points.

Needless to say, it would have been a nightmare trying to remove those bolts with out the pre-heating, I did try at first and some of them didn't evan budge or they did move a hair or two than got tight again.

Step 1 is to move the seat all the way forward, after the two bolts on seat are removed, tilt upward and un-plug the seat...than un-hook the seat at the front of the track.

Than vacuum out all the crumbs, straws, pens, nickles, pickles.......

[Pro Stock John]

I read a tip about using a soldering iron, so I got one and heated up the top of the nuts.

I bought some pipe to slip over the ratchet handle so it be like a breaker bar.

Bolts came out pretty easy. Torx 50.

[Caswell239]

I should do this to mine this winter... Wonder how much I need to do from pedals back.