Is this true about new cars ?

[Anwro]

hey guys , sorry if i posted this in the wrong place , here in Kuwait , dealers really recommend us buyers that when the car is new and freshly delivered , DO NOT drive in a speed above 60mph or 100km .. something about the engine is new and should be trained . is this true ?

[dursin]

Originally Posted by Anwro

hey guys , sorry if i posted this in the wrong place , here in Kuwait , dealers really recommend us buyers that when the car is new and freshly delivered , DO NOT drive in a speed above 60mph or 100km .. something about the engine is new and should be trained . is this true ?

I think it's more of "We just built this car and can't guarantee you that an important part will not fall off so please don't drive it fast for a while".

[Anwro]

i thought of that too , but they say : " and after 3000Miles oil change , you can now speed up to whatever you want .."

[CamaroSpike23]

drive it like you normally would. there is a break in procedure in the owners manual, but most have found that driving it normally is the best way. dont be afraid to get on it.

[adk46r]

Check this out........ ( From Darin Morgan)

The BEST Break for a new car. "very long"
“DISCLAIMER” Do not use the break in procedure below. Do not do hard acceleration runs and load your engine hard. You don't need this much power. I am not responsible for any damage, breakage or massive power increase caused by this crazy break in procedure. Just because every professional engine builder uses this procedure is no reason you should.


IMHO
The manual is written by people following “Corporate procedure” in order to mitigate the company’s exposure both legally and financially. If you don’t do what is outlined in there little manual they have ammo in court and for warranty if they so choose. It has almost nothing to do with how to properly break in an engine.
Some guy takes a new car out and turns the traction control off. He lays the coals to it like he has in his little import and WAMMO, he raps it around a telephone pole. Now what do you think the legal implications would be if the manual said to do 20 -30 hard acceleration runs and something like this happened. The manual has far less to do with break in and much more to do with legal exposure.

For over 25 years I, my family and every single person I am friends with, hang around with and work with build, test, tune, design and race for a living or sport. My brother and I have built some of the fastest engines in the world for just about every form of motor sports you care to name. Engines costing well over 100k-150k. I don’t say this to toot my horn but to give some measure of my background and experience. I do so because the statements I am making in this post will no doubt be controversial for those who have no experience with engine building, component design and high end research and development.

Ask 100 professional engine builders what break in procedure they use (no matter the form of motor sports) and I would venture that 100% would say LOAD them hard and change the oil often. It’s the ONLY way to properly break in an engine and anyone who says otherwise has not a clue what they are talking about. Why do you load the engine? The main reason is ring seal. From a metallurgical stand point both the rings and cylinder walls must “relax” and “conform” in order to properly mate and seal. If this is not done properly, quickly and in proper form the chances of a proper ring seal can be lost for ever. Your rings and cylinder wall wear could increase; the engine will use more oil and make less power. The worst the cylinder hone and free roundness of the ring are, the harder you better load the engine or you don’t have a chance in hell of getting the rings to seal. Some people are worried that they may break something. That may happen then again it may not. It may happen if you don’t use this break in procedure and then again it might not. For me, if its going to break its going to do it in the first thirty minutes of my taking position of the vehicle I assure you! I will find the weak link now, not later. The break in procedure here is the way ALL engines are being, and should be broke in.
When I say to make hard acceleration runs and load the engine I am not proposing you drop the clutch at 4200+rpm. The consequences of this could be a dropped drive shaft, input shaft, output shaft or the trans itself. Acceleration runs are not the same as drag racing the thing from stop light to stop light and acting like a 16 year old behind the wheel.. You must be in a rolling start and in the middle of low gear you floor the throttle and let the trans shift all the way to what ever speed you wish then let out of the throttle. DO NOT down shift, not ever, not even once during the course of these runs for at least 250-300miles. I put the car in neutral and release all loads after the run but that me. I don’t propose anyone doing this. Its dangerous and you could throw the thing into reverse if your not very careful. If you do not have professional driving experience, don’t do it. If you need more info go here

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm



Here is what I do and what I am doing as well as the results from doing so.

Just drove mine off the lot. Has 21 miles on it. The dealer REFUSED to fill it with 93 octane. I told him that it was no big deal just leaves what fuel is in it from the factory and I will fill it at a station across the street.

I had about 25 miles on it when I laid into it with all it had and man oh man what a fricken pooch! It would not even begin to bark the rear tire from a dead stop/full throttle up to 30-35miles and even BOGGED the engine from a dead start.

I have kept doing hard acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. Its got 50miles on it and you can feel it coming around with each additional run. I let it cool down for a couple hours before I took it out again.

After the cool down I went back out. 50miles on the odometer and acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. She is starting to get a little life in her. You can feel the difference about ever five runs or so it gets a little more power.

At about 60miles of acceleration runs to 90mph. It will spin the tires up to second and the ass end will shimmy around a little now. I will let it cool down over night.

80miles on the odometer. Acceleration runs then shift neutral when it hit 90mph. . I can feel it pulling better and better after each acceleration run. Its finally started coming into some power and I mean right fricken NOW! It still feels a little sluggish on the shifts though.

135 miles on the odometer. Its really coming around now! It really wants to fry the tires all the way through low gear but wont quite do it. The traction control and stabiletrac are off but it won’t light them up and accelerate through low gear like a 400hp car should. I will let it cool down over night and lay into it in the morning and see how it goes. I have also noticed that the rear end is starting to squat when I accelerate from a dead launch. Good weight transition for the street but feels a little weird.



165miles on odometer and after overnight cool down. ITS ALIVE !!!! She will fry the tires anytime, anywhere all the way through first, shifts at 6200rpm and turns the tire some in second. Now this is what I wanted and hoped I would wake up to! It flat ass rips up the street all the way through the gears. I have driven a host of low 13, high 12 second cars on the street and this thing will do a low 13 second quarter right now, hands down, no question, no problem. I have driven a plethora of 10 second and 11 second cars as well so I have a good indication of where this stands. I was nothing short of shocked at the power increase. I should say that I was nothing short of shocked at the total lack of power for the first 50 miles or so. It didn’t have 250hp when I drove it off the lot and now, it’s a total animal!! I am loving this!

I now am driving it like I stole it and loving every single second. It’s unbelievable how the throttle response and acceleration has come around. It’s a whole new animal and what a mean little nasty animal it is. You hit the throttle and the power is right there, right now. When you hit the throttle it growls and barks, spins the tires and just hauls ass. I now have a perma-grin that a plastic surgeon could not hope to erase! This is, by far the neatest street car I have ever owned.


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
__________________
My wife (Prostock69) and I Ordered: 2SS/RS Inferno Orange w/ black stripes, black/orange interior, Automatic, w/ sunroof and polished aluminum wheels

Darin Morgan
R&D / Product Development Manager
Profiler Performance Products
12170 Milton Carlisle RD
New Carlisle Ohio 45344
Phone 937-846-1333
dmorgan@profilerperformance.com
http://www.darinmorgan.com
http://www.profilerperformance.com

[gtbaldini]

Owners Manual (if you wish to follow GM's break in) says don't go over 100 mph. Also don't exceed 4000 rpm in any one gear or downshift to a gear that would be in excess of 4000 rpm.

[glambert1]

someone has a vivid imagination

[All-Or-Nothing]

Drive it like normal, that is the best break-in

[levi1922]

im with the "drive it like normal" group.
but i still try not to slam the brakes

[Andro]

Drive the heck out of it

[Anwro]

mm , thanks all

i believe ill go after " drive it like you steal it ,but still you do love it " naah ill just break in hard

[ahart04]

Originally Posted by Anwro

mm , thanks all

i believe ill go after " drive it like you steal it ,but still you do love it " naah ill just break in hard

good choice! but just remember to be easy on the transmission, a hard break in is the best for the ENGINE and its RINGS, not so much for the tranny. so like adk said, start at a low gear say 2nd or 3rd, rolling 30-50 mph and gun it.

here's where my strat. will differ.

I'll take it to the top of the gear, but won't shift, ill just let it wind back down (for the first 300 or so). Also a major difference in my method would be NOT to shift to neutral, but to keep the load on the engine during the deceleration because vacuum pressure in the cylinders also play an important role in seating the rings...

I can't understand why adk would say to shift to neutral...from the first manual i ever drove i was taught not to take a high load off of the transmission (by pushing on the clutch, or shifting to neutral)

adk if you have any input on this discrepancy, DO TELL!

good luck breakin in your beast--don't be afraid to hurt it, they have already run the S*%T out of that motor before it was even put in your car.

[MLL67RSSS]

Well if you've never had the chance to tour the Bowling Green Corvette plant;
One of the very last things they do to each and every just completed brand new Corvette before it is driven out of the plant is pull it into this glass enclosed little room with automatic garage doors at each end and dyno rollers in the floor. Some posts rise up out of the floor in front of it and some front wheel chocks as well, and this big box with a monitor in it slides across just in front of the driver's side windsheild. They then proceed to run the ever lovin' "P" out of it doing a full throttle run through the gears while it bucking and swaying around on those rollers like a rabid, angry, screaming beast trying to escape. Quite a sight to behold. You'd swear it will come flying of those rollers at any second. If the big green "PASS" box lights up on the monitor with all the specs from the run on it, after all the chocks and posts retract the 2nd door opens and they drive it out in to the lot to await delivery. I would imagine they do something similar with the Camaros. So they've got at least on hard run on them before they even leave the plant.

[CloudXTC]

search "break in" you will find tons of threads about this...

my opinion.. what im gonna do with mine... drive it like you would on a normal day... in my case... thats pushing the car a little bit more than the regular joe