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Old 04-08-2014, 07:38 PM   #29
TwentyTen2SSRS


 
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Well my hood roof and trunk are wrapped matte black so that's a lot less to worry about. What is the total cost? I will go with a DA polisher not PC


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Old 04-08-2014, 07:50 PM   #30
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just got done doing my Black SS over the week end, used ultimate compound, with a DA and orange pad. can't believe how much deeper and crystal clear the paint is after, all the halos and holograms are gone along with a long scratch along the fuel door side from the previous owner gone! used an acrylic sealant that I let flash and sit over night. then used my favorite Megs mirror glaze #26 yellow wax to top it off. what a shine. black is amazing when taken care of, no other color has that kind of WOW factor IMO
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Old 04-08-2014, 07:56 PM   #31
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Thank you! I'm sure that zl1 is extremely beautiful as well!
I do my best but yours is truly exceptional
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:04 PM   #32
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PC 7424xp is a dual action polisher. And yes the matte wrap SIGNIFICANTLY reduces those tricky areas. Still many body lines to content with but that does make it easier.

Mothers clay bar: $15-20 depending on wether you get the combo thing or not.

PC 7424xp(cheapest da polisher) with a good backing plate is $135-140.
1 microfiber cutting pad and 1 foam polishing pad: $16
Meguires 105/205 compound/polish: $65
Or mezerna fg400 alone is $35(which for 99.9% of people finishes almost like a polish so you could probably just buy this without the need for a polish) although I would still reccomend a polish just incase your clear needs it.
I would buy 205 for a polish period I just used menzerna sf4000 on my car and it finishes no better than 205 and it's $15 more expensive.


Check with Todd@autopia he gave me an excellent deal on the PC with all of the stuff. I think they have a package deal for 5 LC pads the PC and meguires 105/205 for a good price if you can't find a polisher to pick up used.
But STILL contact Todd and order through him so he tracks your package and sees your package through. Some people have had problems with there shipping when only going through the website.
http://m.autopia-carcare.com/porter-...uiars-kit.html
If you have any questions on how polish please feel free to PM me.



Edit:btw this is assuming you have GOOD detailing towels and other supplies. It does no good to work very hard polishing and scratch your paint with Walmart microfibers buffing the residue off.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:08 PM   #33
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Man thank you for all of that info. Definitely a noob at it but I think purchasing now in the long term it is way cheaper then consistently taking car to a detailer (plus added bonus if using in other cars). What I really need is someone to just advise me what to buy for a good beginner/moderate guy who is extremely OCD and will put in all the time that's needed with a reasonable budget which the above certainly seems to be for me.


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Old 04-08-2014, 08:12 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by jshaf View Post
just got done doing my Black SS over the week end, used ultimate compound, with a DA and orange pad. can't believe how much deeper and crystal clear the paint is after, all the halos and holograms are gone along with a long scratch along the fuel door side from the previous owner gone! used an acrylic sealant that I let flash and sit over night. then used my favorite Megs mirror glaze #26 yellow wax to top it off. what a shine. black is amazing when taken care of, no other color has that kind of WOW factor IMO
I completely agree. Did you finish with a polish? The UC and UP by meguires are very user friendly and allows a very long work time!
Also I love the #26 wax! Don't let anyone give you shit for using it because it's commercially avaliable!

Post some picks up of that beauty!
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:16 PM   #35
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Man thank you for all of that info. Definitely a noob at it but I think purchasing now in the long term it is way cheaper then consistently taking car to a detailer (plus added bonus if using in other cars). What I really need is someone to just advise me what to buy for a good beginner/moderate guy who is extremely OCD and will put in all the time that's needed with a reasonable budget which the above certainly seems to be for me.


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Please PM me with any questions you have! I'll be more than happy to answer them. Or anything I didn't explain throughly enough.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:24 PM   #36
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Please PM me with any questions you have! I'll be more than happy to answer them. Or anything I didn't explain throughly enough.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:38 PM   #37
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Passing the torch down ehh?
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:40 PM   #38
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Passing the torch down ehh?
You are and thank you.
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Old 04-08-2014, 09:26 PM   #39
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I do my best but yours is truly exceptional
I really do appreciate that! Ashen grey metallic and your red are my two other favorite colors of camaros!

Please feel free to post up pictures of that beautiful zl1!
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Old 04-08-2014, 10:27 PM   #40
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Rear pillar and trunk reflection.. One of my favorite reflective spots on the car.
This is the toughest part of the car for me to polish, any tips? The area right where the "hips" meet the pillar. The other part that is a total pain is the rear bumper for me as well.
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:00 PM   #41
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This is the toughest part of the car for me to polish, any tips? The area right where the "hips" meet the pillar. The other part that is a total pain is the rear bumper for me as well.
I'm assuming since you are having trouble in that area you don't have a smaller polisher for those areas?


If this is the case then the trick is to KEEP THE PAD SPINNING. I see many many beginners that go over tight areas with huge pads and the pad stops spinning. At that point you are doing little to no correction at all. If you haven't already, mark a very thick sharpie line on your backing plate so that you can confirm if your pad is spinning. To keep the pad spinning over this area and effectively correcting the paint you will need to turn the machine up in power more than likely if you already aren't on max already, and over half of the pad will be hanging off. This will cause significant dusting but it is a trade off you must make to effeiciantly polish this area. Now admittedly the paint right below the small triangular window that is verticle and not horizontal is extremely difficult to polish effeiciantly with only a huge pad so you have two options.


You can either hand polish those areas and live with 50-70% correction or you can tape the trim and window VERY THROUGHLY with masking tape and direct the pressure that you are putting on the machine to that specific area.

I did the latter of the suggestions and it worked flawlessly for me. I really hope this helps!
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Old 04-08-2014, 11:04 PM   #42
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Ok I have to stop you here. You do not need to, nor should you, crank up the power for tricky areas. Less surface contact=less resistance. Why would that necessitate higher speeds? If you're having to crank up the speed to keep the pad moving you're doing something very wrong.



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