05-14-2014, 09:33 AM | #15 |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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Thanks for the confirmation that the bar will fit either way. I suppose whichever direction you would prefer will work.
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05-14-2014, 12:35 PM | #16 | ||
Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 9,621
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Quote:
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Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007 |
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05-14-2014, 05:29 PM | #17 |
Drives: 2011 CGM Camaro LS A6 Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 10,305
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I would pay attention to what JDP suggests. The fact that they actually race their car helps in knowing what works and what doesn't.
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05-15-2014, 01:10 AM | #18 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,071
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edit I have 10mm end links
when I put my front BK016 bar in I didnt have to drill anything had 18mm nuts on the end links and I got the stock bar out on jack stands pretty easily without lifting the motor. getting the new bar in took a while. Had to bend the ps line a little by hand and then I got the bar caught on the pass side rear stud for the sway bar bushing. After a while i got pissed and just smacked the bar with a rubber mallet from under it on the pass side. It popped off the stud and fell in.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
Last edited by JCunningham; 04-01-2016 at 11:21 PM. |
05-15-2014, 09:25 AM | #19 | |
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 344
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Quote:
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"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen) |
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05-15-2014, 01:11 PM | #20 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,071
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i did everything at the same time so it was easy. i lowered the unattached cradle down as far as i wanted. I didnt remove the arm from the center bolt as i didnt see the need. If your doing that id do cradle bushings too if you havent already. they make a big difference. do the heat method to take the cradle bushings out
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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05-15-2014, 03:10 PM | #21 | |
Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Seffner, FL
Posts: 6,226
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05-15-2014, 11:13 PM | #22 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,071
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i have the BK039. And the BK039 kit is like a rolex compared to the timex thats on there. And if you have the hydraulic press might as well do the radius and front lower control arms too Id recommend doing the derlin cradle bushings. my car is no louder than before and I have almost a full BMR suspension. Love it.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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05-16-2014, 09:18 AM | #23 |
Drives: 2012 1SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 344
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Yeah good advice guys. I will definitely be ordering BK039 and trying to install it without lowering the cradle again. I have some used Pedders inserts in the cradle now and while it made a huge improvement I'm sure they are still deflecting considerably (they were VERY soft/flexible). I am hesitant to do the full cradle bushings as I'm not sure how to get the stock ones out (I know someone on the form does it with the weight of the car etc... but it just seems tricky w/o legit tools). Next year when I have more hp and bump to the next NASA-X class I'll have more than enough points to play with, I'll probably do something similar to the Hotchkis brace that really locks down the rear subframe, especially with the brace and the inserts. That brace will be easy to remove and sell if I ever get rid of the car too, you're never getting your money back for those solid cradle bushings :(
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"Driving is the only thing I love about f1."
(Kimi Raikkonen) |
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