[cvpstudios]

Hi all, I am considering adding an amp and 2 subs in trunk of my 2SS with factory Bose system (that already sounds quite good) - but.... what I want to ask is this, since the battery is in the back... it shouldn't be too difficult to get power to the amp - but how to get the input to the amp if putting in the trunk? maybe splicing from the rear deck speakers, as I highly doubt the factory deck has RCA outputs?

thanks for any thoughts!

[RLNTLSS]

The pic with the bose amp has a su bt ump.com harness with mic delete..the harness allows u to connect to high outputs from the bose amp.. to the LCRi 2..which turns those hi input wires into RCA's while making and has the remote signal to turn on the amp from a signal feed from the high input speaker wire. Imagine a trip wire that only activates when the factory head unit gives output. The other pic is a scar audio 800 watt amp which since has been changed to a 1200 The battery is right next to the rights under a panel I did a direct connect with 100 amp fuse, then I grounded to a bolt directly in front of the battery which the battery is connected to the frame of the car I've read up everywhere essentially all leads go back to the battery so if you can get to the battery it's even better I chose to ground right with the battery grounds The LC2I makes all this super easy since your remote wire is right there on the LC2I That's connected to the battery with a 1 amp fuse..it has a signal sense auto turn on..it really makes install super easy. I also went through the wiring and put the ground from the LC2I directly to the amp ground since they're both grounded to the same bolt just don't want to run extra long wire.shulda done the same to the power..

[cvpstudios]

Originally Posted by RLNTLSS

The pic with the bose amp has a su bt ump.com harness with mic delete..the harness allows u to connect to high outputs from the bose amp.. to the LCRi 2..which turns those hi input wires into RCA's while making and has the remote signal to turn on the amp from a signal feed from the high input speaker wire. Imagine a trip wire that only activates when the factory head unit gives output. The other pic is a scar audio 800 watt amp which since has been changed to a 1200 The battery is right next to the rights under a panel I did a direct connect with 100 amp fuse, then I grounded to a bolt directly in front of the battery which the battery is connected to the frame of the car I've read up everywhere essentially all leads go back to the battery so if you can get to the battery it's even better I chose to ground right with the battery grounds The LC2I makes all this super easy since your remote wire is right there on the LC2I That's connected to the battery with a 1 amp fuse..it has a signal sense auto turn on..it really makes install super easy. I also went through the wiring and put the ground from the LC2I directly to the amp ground since they're both grounded to the same bolt just don't want to run extra long wire.shulda done the same to the power..

very cool, thanks so much

[2004YZFR1]

Originally Posted by RLNTLSS

The pic with the bose amp has a su bt ump.com harness with mic delete..the harness allows u to connect to high outputs from the bose amp.. to the LCRi 2..which turns those hi input wires into RCA's while making and has the remote signal to turn on the amp from a signal feed from the high input speaker wire. Imagine a trip wire that only activates when the factory head unit gives output. The other pic is a scar audio 800 watt amp which since has been changed to a 1200 The battery is right next to the rights under a panel I did a direct connect with 100 amp fuse, then I grounded to a bolt directly in front of the battery which the battery is connected to the frame of the car I've read up everywhere essentially all leads go back to the battery so if you can get to the battery it's even better I chose to ground right with the battery grounds The LC2I makes all this super easy since your remote wire is right there on the LC2I That's connected to the battery with a 1 amp fuse..it has a signal sense auto turn on..it really makes install super easy. I also went through the wiring and put the ground from the LC2I directly to the amp ground since they're both grounded to the same bolt just don't want to run extra long wire.shulda done the same to the power..

Did you just add a amp for a sub and a subwoofer? And keep the rest of the Bose 2SS speakers? And if so how is the overall sound?

[RLNTLSS]

Sounds badassssss.... Running 2k skar audio and dual 12s in a sealed box with a xs 3000 power battry.. i have my lc2i turnd up a bit..i love it

[2004YZFR1]

I bet it hits hard, thanks.

[RLNTLSS]

I just made a custom floor for it so I'll post some pictures here soon enough something that will support the battery since the floor just sucks

[RLNTLSS]

Heres a pic of the amp mount carpeted..theres a brace for the xs battery ..its really heavy on the cheap flimsy board now im using .75inch mdf..the final floor amd battery placement

[2SSDaddy]

Originally Posted by RLNTLSS

Sounds badassssss.... Running 2k skar audio and dual 12s in a sealed box with a xs 3000 power battry.. i have my lc2i turnd up a bit..i love it

Do you think the extra battery was necessary or is that just for better performance? Would a good capacitor work as well?

[keep_hope_alive]

Originally Posted by 2SSDaddy

Do you think the extra battery was necessary or is that just for better performance? Would a good capacitor work as well?

A typical capacitor (1F or so) is useless.

A bank of ultracapacitors (500F) can certainly help, but it's a spendy option.

A second battery is added to assist when playing when the car is off, and keep voltage above 12.5V when driving. The second battery does not help maintain 14.4V as only the alternator can do that.

I recommend having a voltmeter handy, visible when adding a big system. You want to know what the voltage is at the amp. If you see it dropping below 12.5V, you know you have work to do. The ratings on the amp aren't what drives this, it's the ACTUAL amp draw that dictates what should be done, if anything.

[BryanT2016]

Originally Posted by keep_hope_alive

A typical capacitor (1F or so) is useless.

A bank of ultracapacitors (500F) can certainly help, but it's a spendy option.

A second battery is added to assist when playing when the car is off, and keep voltage above 12.5V when driving. The second battery does not help maintain 14.4V as only the alternator can do that.

I recommend having a voltmeter handy, visible when adding a big system. You want to know what the voltage is at the amp. If you see it dropping below 12.5V, you know you have work to do. The ratings on the amp aren't what drives this, it's the ACTUAL amp draw that dictates what should be done, if anything.

Older thread but just wondering. Did you put a solonoid or something on your second battery on a key hot so your batteries do not drain to each other trying to match each other and shortening the battery life while engine is off?