p0335 and car runinng HOT

[Cummaro]

I have a v8 camaro and it started taking a dump on me. Turn on the car and the temps just start sky rocketing never cools down. Only exception is once coolant hits 241degrees it starts to slow down on the temp climb but might be because i turn hot air full blast and temps stabalize at 232-234 degrees. Now my battery is starting to die, i use my car about once a week. Just today i jump started car the voltage stays around 12.0 volts at idle and i got the code p0335 and p0174...the stability, trac lights are on. Car does not turn on unless i jump start it now.

The coolant reservoir is room temp to the touch when i open it even though my coolant temps show 242 degrees. You guys think its possibly the coolant sensor? Where is this sensor located in our v8 cars, i have 2012
https://youtu.be/1L4nB2NdA0U

Went to autozone and they say the voltage shows 11.4 so they say battery is ok. I havent replaced the thermostat but i bought that as a posaibility. Other things ive read is crankshaft position sensor, starter. Anyone have similar issues

[Hippy]

Originally Posted by Cummaro

I have a v8 camaro and it started taking a dump on me. Turn on the car and the temps just start sky rocketing never cools down. Only exception is once coolant hits 241degrees it starts to slow down on the temp climb but might be because i turn hot air full blast and temps stabalize at 232-234 degrees. Now my battery is starting to die, i use my car about once a week. Just today i jump started car the voltage stays around 12.0 volts at idle and i got the code p0335 and p0174...the stability, trac lights are on.

Went to autozone and they say the voltage shows 11.4 so they say battery is ok. I havent replaced the thermostat but i bought that as a posaibility. Other things ive read is crankshaft position sensor, starter. Anyone have similar issues

if the battery will not start the car it's a little low from sitting. After you jump it and it's only reading 12 volts your alternator is not charging it.
whats the battery reading when it's running ? Put the light what does it does it go lower?
I would say something alternator related (went bad or broken wire)

the high temp issue,
are the fans coming on ?

the thermostat is for capture time so the fans can cool the radiators then send it through the engine, etc

if it was stuck open you would have high temps at idle and low temps while driving

if it was stuck closed you will have a hot engine and cold radiator

this code
P0174 - System Too Lean (Bank 2)
would make the engine run abnormally hot and also self de-struck your engine


P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction



sounds like a ECU issue or a electrical problem..
you should not start the car for very long or drive the car till you figure out whats the problem or you may have
cause costly repairs.

Did a mice crawl up in there and eat some wires

keep us posted

[Ogre762]

12v at idle and a battery at 11.4 isn't good. I would start with a fully charged battery and have an alternator test performed. You're most likely undervolting the fuel pump causing the car to run a bit lean. The computer is going to throw random codes because it is not seeing correct voltages anywhere, and the fans aren't going to run at full speed causing the temp to rise. Stability and Trac lights are on because of low voltage as well (not enough voltage to energize, and receiving inconsistent readings). I would guess that most of your problems will resolve themselves once you are running at the proper voltage.

[hazy]

Sounds like your battery is going south.

If you replace it, and are still having the codes thrown/no tach/SC&TC lights, replace your starter.

Over the past year, I have increasingly had that same problem, but I know for a fact my battery is solid. About 2 or 3 weeks ago, I replaced my starter, and it works like a charm.

Something about the heat must've done some bad shit to my starter, and it wasn't functioning properly. New starter solved the issue - now I can sit in Houston traffic for an hour and a half, kill the motor, and immediately start again no issue

[Hippy]

What Ogre762 said..

It's simple, the battery was checked.. It was low but I'm assuming the load test showed it would hold a charge..

So the next in line is the altenater.

Everything is related to not getting the proper voltage..

If there isn't any obvious broken wires replace the altenater..
Charge the battery and everything will be normal.

*You'll have to reset the codes.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[Cummaro]

Yes it's still holding a charge after getting it charged by autozone but then within a few days it won't turn on. I will take off the alternator this Friday and have it tested if it passes the test then I will tackle the starter next. Any advice/tips on taking out the alternator? I've replaced a ton of parts on my older cars but not sure if I should know something when taking this out and installing it back. One last thing, the fans start coming on when the temps are around 220 degrees so it seems like the fans are coming on but I guess not at the full potential? The temps start to go down little by little when I start driving/cruising but sky rocket back up (234-244+ degrees) when at idle. Awesome guys thanks for all the tips, glad I joined this site!!! I will definitely keep you guys posted!

[Hippy]

Cranking the engine with low voltage will most definitely burn up your starter..
How does it crank when you jump it?

You can also quickly test the altenater while it's in the car with a volt meter
Just have to run car for a couple minutes (if that)
I'm should one of those auto part stores have a load tester for loan if you don't have one


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[derklug]

Does the belt turn when the car is running? I have seen dampners go bad and the outer pulley does not turn with the crank. That would give you overheat and no charge.

[Cummaro]

Originally Posted by Hippy

Cranking the engine with low voltage will most definitely burn up your starter..
How does it crank when you jump it?

You can also quickly test the altenater while it's in the car with a volt meter
Just have to run car for a couple minutes (if that)
I'm should one of those auto part stores have a load tester for loan if you don't have one


Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

When i jump it the car turns on like normal, no clicking or any weird pause/noises. Just saw on youtube a way to test with a simple voltmeter which I have, ill try it out tomorrow since i still have to fully charge battery.

[Cummaro]

Originally Posted by derklug

Does the belt turn when the car is running? I have seen dampners go bad and the outer pulley does not turn with the crank. That would give you overheat and no charge.

Yes the belt is turning with car on, i am hoping i can resolve issue sometime this week. I will be double checking all grounds as well.

[ToolFan66]

Why not take it in to the dealership, you should be under warranty no??

[Cummaro]

Originally Posted by ToolFan66

Why not take it in to the dealership, you should be under warranty no??

Bought the car used with 103k miles, i know im going to get screamed at for high mileage but i got the car for 14k haha

[Cummaro]

Charged battery and was told battery is good. Did alternator test with it on car. With car off battery read 12.5v and when i turned on car it held a steady 14.6-14.8v. Put heater at full blast and hi beams, stayed at about 14.4-14.5v. Now im checking again all wires and grounds.

[Cummaro]

Ok so i saw this on both sides of pan not sure if this is normal having to open connectors with nothing plugged into them??? Where are all the chassis grounds?