Forza Dual Mode Exhaust Controller

[ZL1Reaper]

I see it. Thanks for the info.

[forzasteve]

Originally Posted by ZL1Reaper

Steve,
I was reading about your Master Power Switch, which helps with battery drainage. Would I have to turn the switch off, in an event when the car is not driven often, or this feature is done automatically? Thanks.

There is a way to "automate" the power off so you would have zero current drain install ...

Since there are no fuse positions in the rear fuse block on the Camaro that are switched with the ignition, using the rear fuse block poses the problem that even with the ignition off, there is a small current drain. It is not significant, but will contribute a small drain along with those other devices on your car that are draining power.

In order to have a zero current drain install, you would have to locate a source of electrical power that is switched with the ignition. In the spirit of plug and play and not requiring any wire splicing or cutting, that nearest location with switched fused positions is the fuse block located at the end of the instrument panel. If you were take the fuse tap that is included with the Forza kit and install that fuse tap in a switched position at the instrument panel fuse block, you could then splice into the wire and route that power wire (which would be fused) back to the yellow power input wire on controller module that you locate in the rear of the car near the rear fuse block. Once you do that, every time you shut off the ignition, all power would be removed from the controller module. Zero current drain install.

Regards,

Steve

[97ChameleonTA]

I'm in for a 3-way switch as well. Personally, I would be fine with a 2-way that either had the exhaust quiet full time our loud full time. Never really saw the benefit of the factory setup...

[97ChameleonTA]

Originally Posted by forzasteve

There is a way to "automate" the power off so you would have zero current drain install ...

Since there are no fuse positions in the rear fuse block on the Camaro that are switched with the ignition, using the rear fuse block poses the problem that even with the ignition off, there is a small current drain. It is not significant, but will contribute a small drain along with those other devices on your car that are draining power.

In order to have a zero current drain install, you would have to locate a source of electrical power that is switched with the ignition. In the spirit of plug and play and not requiring any wire splicing or cutting, that nearest location with switched fused positions is the fuse block located at the end of the instrument panel. If you were take the fuse tap that is included with the Forza kit and install that fuse tap in a switched position at the instrument panel fuse block, you could then splice into the wire and route that power wire (which would be fused) back to the yellow power input wire on controller module that you locate in the rear of the car near the rear fuse block. Once you do that, every time you shut off the ignition, all power would be removed from the controller module. Zero current drain install.

Regards,

Steve

Another option to consider would be an inline switch on the power input that could be mounted in the trunk area. It could be mounted very discretely but with easy access.

[forzasteve]

Originally Posted by 97ChameleonTA

Another option to consider would be an inline switch on the power input that could be mounted in the trunk area. It could be mounted very discretely but with easy access.

I recommend the location to install the control module is immediately under the panel board cover over the battery / spare tire well. It is pretty easy to quickly remove the large plastic screw down and push the master switch. Another option is to mount the controller module more out in the open and so you can access the power switch. Your option would work as well.

Regards,

Steve

[forzasteve]

A buddy of mine has 2013 SS with Dual Mode Exhaust. He and I installed the controller on his car and have it documented ...

The fuse block is located in the rear trunk (boot) of the vehicle on the right side behind a panel that you must loosen or remove.


Remove and set aside the inside carpet panel covering the floor. Remove the fiberboard panel covering the battery well / spare tire well.

Remove convenience net retainers and the rear sill plate



Remove black plastic threaded fastener at bottom of panel and one or two button type rivets at the top.



Pull back carpeted panel on right to gain access to the fuse block. Remove the fuse block cover.



Install fuse taps ...



Install the controller module in the battery / spare tire well under the floor panel. This will allow easy access to the push-button switch without having to remove the side panel covering the fuse block.



Secure loose wires ...



Replace panels in trunk and enjoy ...

[vatechguy3]

Please post this up when the 3 position units become available.
i am still interested too!

Tony

[MeritedSuperior]

I don't even have NPP exhaust just yet but ill definitely get the 3-way for when I do.

[forzasteve]

I just got final design specs for the 3-way controller from my supplier for the customized printed circuit board. Looks like a week or two before I get my first product sample and then maybe 2 or 3 weeks after that to get production.

Some details on the 3-way controller:

• The design is completely customized for the task. There are no off the shelf remote switches used.
• Size will be about 3" x 4.5" ... just a bit larger than the 2-way model
• 3-way function ... Stock ECU Control, Always Open and Always Closed
• Plug and play ... there will be no cutting or splicing of wires.
• 100% reversible. Remove the controller and everything back to stock
• Remote control fob will look similar to the 2-way fob. Only difference is number of buttons. It will use 433 MHz RF so will be compliant with both FCC (USA) and CE (Europe and rest of world).
• You will have the option to use either the remote control fob transmitter or install a manual switch (e.g., your center console)
• The kit will include all wiring harness required.
• As soon as I am able to compile all my costs, I will set a price. I will do my best to make the price very fair.

Best regards,

Steve

[nivek]

Originally Posted by forzasteve

I just got final design specs for the 3-way controller from my supplier for the customized printed circuit board. Looks like a week or two before I get my first product sample and then maybe 2 or 3 weeks after that to get production.

Some details on the 3-way controller:

• The design is completely customized for the task. There are no off the shelf remote switches used.
• Size will be about 3" x 4.5" ... just a bit larger than the 2-way model
• 3-way function ... Stock ECU Control, Always Open and Always Closed
• Plug and play ... there will be no cutting or splicing of wires.
• 100% reversible. Remove the controller and everything back to stock
• Remote control fob will look similar to the 2-way fob. Only difference is number of buttons. It will use 433 MHz RF so will be compliant with both FCC (USA) and CE (Europe and rest of world).
• You will have the option to use either the remote control fob transmitter or install a manual switch (e.g., your center console)
• The kit will include all wiring harness required.
• As soon as I am able to compile all my costs, I will set a price. I will do my best to make the price very fair.

Best regards,

Steve

Sounds like a great setup. I am interested.

[sd1611]

Originally Posted by nivek

Sounds like a great setup. I am interested.

Ditto.

[vatechguy3]

So who is doing your testing??

Tony

[forzasteve]

Update ...

Configuration will be as follows:

Three-way controller,
1. Default (vehicle controls valves),
2. Always Open,
3. Always Closed

User configurable to work using remote control transmitter or a manual switch that you can install anywhere in the vehicle. Gives you more flexibility on how you want to control the valves.

Remote Control will have 4 buttons. I could not get a 3 button remote for reasonable amount. So went with 4-button model and will be programming buttons C & D to have same function.



So, because it has 4 buttons, the programming will be as follows.
- Button A ... Default mode (vehicle controls valves)
- Button B ... Always open
- Button C or D ... Always closed

Remote has plastic slide that you can position to cover all the buttons or the bottom row (C & D). And buttons C & D are smaller so easy to "feel" the difference when you are driving ... you won't have to take your eyes off the road.

The buttons will have only one function. Button A will always return vehicle to stock mode. It is not a toggle button. Button C or D will always give you the "Always Closed" option. Press Button A to go back to stock mode or press Button B to go to Open mode. You get the idea.

I was hoping to have it ready first of April, but am getting a customized printed circuit board that will be installed in an ABS enclosure. Unfortunately, will not have the custom PCB ready in time to be able to ship in mid-April as I hoped.

I know another sponsor here is coming out with a 3 -way, and was hoping to be out with the Forza unit in same time frame, but stuff happens and won't be ready to go till later. I am going on vacation for 3 weeks in late April, so likely will be in May.

I know you guys were lining up, so if you go with the other sponsor's product, I don't blame you. I did not want to keep you guys hanging on when you have a choice of another sponsor's product.

If you decide to wait for the Forza 3-way so you can make a comparison on price and function, I don't think you will be disappointed.

Thanks,

Steve

[forzasteve]

Hey ... in the mean time, if you think you would be happy with a two-way controller, there are in stock and ready to ship.

http://www.forzacomponenti.com/


Thanks,

Steve