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Old 08-02-2016, 02:12 PM   #15
2NASSTY

 
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I would not daily drive the MT Street R. Very soft compound with hardly no tread. It's basically a slick with 2 grooves in it.

http://https://www.mickeythompsontir...item=ETStreetR
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Old 08-02-2016, 02:14 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by 2NASSTY View Post
I would not daily drive the MT Street R. Very soft compound with hardly no tread. It's basically a slick with 2 grooves in it.

http://https://www.mickeythompsontir...item=ETStreetR
Oh okay cool. Gonna buy just for drag racing times then. Thanks for the link too nasty
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Old 08-02-2016, 02:43 PM   #17
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No problem Man. I think you will really like this tire on the track.
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Old 08-02-2016, 05:11 PM   #18
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I think taking off the sway bar helps even with IRS. My car works a little better.

Stick might be different. Got to keep the nose up with stick or u will unload the back.
I hope I didn't confuse anybody using the term 'stick' as slang for a solid rear axle. Removing or even just disconnecting the front bar on these cars allows more of the engine's torque reaction to plant the RR back down again. This tends to equalize left rear vs right rear traction and increases the total slightly. Every little bit helps, especially when you can get it without having to resort to asymmetries in the rest of your setup.

You don't get that with an IRS, as engine torque reaction is carried straight back to the differential, with only cradle bushing compliance effects allowing any chassis roll for the front bar to resist. But losing the bar entirely still means less weight way out on the nose.


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Old 08-03-2016, 06:16 PM   #19
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I meant stick shift.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:19 AM   #20
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Thought so, John, just didn't want there to be any confusion.

On stick-shift drag racing in general, I wonder how many people today are anywhere near as good as Ronnie Sox was. Heh . . . how many people even know what the original slick-shift mod was without looking it up?


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Old 08-04-2016, 07:52 AM   #21
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I removed mine and really didn't notice any diff just a little weight savings I guess .
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Old 12-26-2016, 10:48 PM   #22
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Bumping up. Thinking about disconnecting the front sway bar. I need every bit to hook off the line on a unprepped surface. I already have trailing arms, toe rods, Pegasus solid subframe bushings. I'll probably go with the MT et r drag radials with slicks. I'm on a th400. Will disconnecting the front sway bar help out or what else could I do?
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:38 AM   #23
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Unless your car rolls over to the right on launch enough to clearly notice, disconnecting the front bar is a waste of time. Even removing it completely only helps by losing a few lbs of weight up front. Whether you get enough straight line help by front bar removal to matter, there will be some risk of ending up with oversteer under some (or maybe many) predictable driving situations.

IRS cars can't effectively use either low front roll stiffness or high rear roll stiffness to help equalize rear tire grip like the stick axle cars can, because there's no chassis roll for them to work with and no driveshaft-induced unloading of the RR tire to have to fix.


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Old 12-27-2016, 04:21 PM   #24
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camarosspower, i think it helped my car get more front end extension and weight transfer more. You could just unhook the end links and tie up the bar to try it.
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Old 12-27-2016, 06:48 PM   #25
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I would say it helped me on launch and yes a lot of front extension to keep the rear planted.
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:48 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camarosspower View Post
Bumping up. Thinking about disconnecting the front sway bar. I need every bit to hook off the line on a unprepped surface. I already have trailing arms, toe rods, Pegasus solid subframe bushings. I'll probably go with the MT et r drag radials with slicks. I'm on a th400. Will disconnecting the front sway bar help out or what else could I do?
If you're racing on unprepped surfaces you're probably better off with Hoosiers over the mt et r drag radials. I daily on my 17" mt's but have seen better results for auto 5th gens with Hoosier bias plys when on the street.
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Old 12-28-2016, 07:20 AM   #27
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camarosspower, i think it helped my car get more front end extension and weight transfer more. You could just unhook the end links and tie up the bar to try it.
That would eliminate any friction/stiction effects from the bar rotating within its chassis bracket bushings . . . at least the bar wouldn't be working against the front trying to rise.


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Old 12-28-2016, 08:23 AM   #28
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Thanks guys. I'll just have to disconnect it and see how it works for me. Doc, what Hoosiers are you talking about slicks or drag radials?
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