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08-07-2013, 12:39 AM
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#15 | |
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Boosted Moderator
Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Marion Tx
Posts: 15,465
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I also have a stand alone nitrous system with a 240 liter/hr walbro pump within the 1.5 gallon tank used to mix with the nitrous... I have dual 15 lb nitrous bottles in the trunk with heaters. All this and the supporting mods allow me to cruise around with 900+rwhp on the streets.... add in C-16 racefuel and turn the boost controller on and htfo.... Supporting mods... One off custom built TR6060 with billet gears 1st through 5th... Nine Inch with Strange center section, and a wavetrack diff, 3.07 gears Pedders XA supercar coilovers and all associated bushings and bars... Someone mentioned the cost of these builds... build a budget and then at least double it and that's if nothing breaks... It was also mentioned that the cost is high... I said before I have more under the hood than most Camaro owners have on rubber... It's just the cost of running a super big build car.... I will say to be reasonable with the goals.... This is now my third motor, (factory, blown one and my new one) 6th trans before we could get one to shift... mine has an internal shift mech rather than the floating external mech that comes with the cars... 4th driveshaft, third clutch... factory, and then the first aftermarket clutch I bought sucked... turbos 7 and 8... first two lasted less than a week... mismatch on the oiling orifice fittings, the third and 4th lasted a year, and we upgraded them, then blew them up overspinning them, and my new turbos are just going in the car.... Let me finish by saying my car has been and remains a test bed.... My builder and I collaborate on every step... The recommendations are his and when it's dicey, the final decision is always mine....though occasionally he will refuse to do something... my goals exceed the build sometimes...he brings me back to earth... Every component that has failed other than the first two turbos was my call... At the Texas Mile, I made a pass, pushed some water through the head gasket, and I decided to go ahead and turn the bottle on for another pass... to set the record... We already had the new heads at the shop being ported... Well, that pass cost me a motor and heads... and still didn't set the record... again, my call... As mentioned, if going all out, plan a budget and double or triple it... Power not on the ground is wasted... and broken cars that cant be fixed financially are tough to swallow.... My car is not built for drag racing though we do that occasionally for fun.. It's built for land speed runs.... well in excess of 200 mph....
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough... |
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08-07-2013, 12:54 AM
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#16 |
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Boosted Moderator
Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Marion Tx
Posts: 15,465
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Ok, I've cleaned up this thread for its intended purpose...
Comments and conversation are invited, but try to keep it on track, and keep in mind, even the guys with big builds have a strong sense of humor and we pick on each other mercilessly most of the time... But I know any of the guys posting in this thread so far will go out of their way to help any other member with guidance... suggestions... etc... All of the guys that have posted in here so far have built big power cars and have managed to break something, somethings multiple times... me for example As was mentioned by one member, these builds are no guarantee of a successful build.... It boils down to quality of mechanical build, and tuning.... The best advice I can offer is to shop around for a builder you trust and can develop a relationship with.... unless you have the honest ability to do it yourself... My builder and I are best friends... I trust him implicitly with my car.... I also have a friend that has been to multiple shops and still has a garage queen.. Be careful.... ask lots of questions, and research.... I'll attempt to keep this thread on topic, but occasionally it will drift with a sense of humor... Again, everyone that has posted in here so far will help all they can with any questions you might have, or steer you in the right direction for proper answers...
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough... |
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08-07-2013, 01:11 AM
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#17 |
 Drives: 2012 Camaro SS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 657
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looks like we are off to a decent start 2ss45th FINALLY posted something useful. Keep the builds comming. I know this isnt a buy these parts and it will live forever but its nice to see what combos work together.
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08-07-2013, 09:24 AM
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#18 |
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USAF retired! Thank God!
Drives: 2011 1SS, 1LT red,1LT/RS SGM 98Z28 Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: North Texas
Posts: 2,799
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Excellent thread now. I wish something like this was available a year ago.
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08-07-2013, 09:35 AM
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#19 |
       
Drives: 11 Seconds or Faster Join Date: May 2012
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Posts: 2,797
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Here's another engine that I have sitting disassembled, built for 750 wheel. Kind of like a nice DD blown motor, nothing too serious, but it will hold a decent amount of power.
Engine: Block: LS3/L99 CI: 376 CR: 10.0:1 Crankshaft: Stock Nodular Crank, needs main studs to reduce flex. Rods: K1 lightweight H Beams, ARP hardware Pistons: Wisecos, gas ports not needed. Rings: Wiseco Rings Heads: LS3 4 bolt heads, ARP studs, inconel exhaust valve recommended. Valves/Springs: PRC Dual springs Cam: Lingenfelter GT9 cam is a great driving cam, and doesn't bleed off boost. Timing Chain: Cloyes Hex-a-just Oil pump: Melling High volume Aftermarket Dampner: ATI Rib count depends on blower used. Maggie I recommend 8. Anything else: If using a turbo, a set of the ZR1 sodium filled exhaust valves would be great. Keeping the stock stroke makes the crank and rods less susceptible to failure. The angles that the rods are exposed to are less aggressive. Pistons do better with the 3.622 stroke as well. I wouldn't go more than 5 thou over on the cylinder walls either.
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I Ain't About That Stock Life.
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08-07-2013, 09:41 AM
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#20 |
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Hasbin of Stock Bottom HP
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Good thread here, I'm gonna watch this closely as I ponder my engine setup. Until then we'll see how far the stock one takes me. What I wonder is I see a lot of people going 376, 408 LQ Blocks, 416, 427, etc. Would you just build a ci bigger engine for a power goal or is it optimized really for a particular setup.
For instance I'm probably sticking with my novi 1500 and I'm thinking staying stock cube with that blower is my best bet. |
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08-07-2013, 11:09 AM
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#21 | |
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Drives: 11 Seconds or Faster Join Date: May 2012
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Posts: 2,797
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Quote:
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I Ain't About That Stock Life.
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08-07-2013, 11:32 AM
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#22 |
 
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We have had the same discussion with my build back and forth. My plan was as well to go down the stroker route. But even with my current compression (10.3) there would not have been enough blower (maggie) to run 418ci efficiently. It can be done, some are even running their 427s with a Maggie - but imho that should be whipple or centrifigual territory.
At the end of the day I'm happy with running stock cubes rather than taking the additonal stress that go along with a stroker. Driving on the German Autobahn at 150++mph for longer periods you do want to be sure, that the engine can take it!
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custom build forged LSA, 379ci, TVS2300@15psi, 696rwhp/688ft-lbs, built by DH Individual, Customkingz, tuned by Jannetty Racing
JRE rough idle cam, JRE ported lower intake manifold, OD cog drive, 6% OD crank pulley, ported ls3 heads, NW102mm TB, 1/2'' RDS spacer, IW 8-rib drive Pfadt Cradle Bushings, Arms & Rods, Pedders Supercar w/FE4 conversion, ZL1 sways, HE Twin Carbon Street Slayer, ZL1 Rear End (3.73) CTS-V Brake upgrade, Street: 22'' Vossen CV1, Strip: 18'' Forgestar F14 on MT Street Radials  |
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08-07-2013, 12:19 PM
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#23 | |
 
Drives: Twin turbo G8 GXP Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: MD
Posts: 454
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Quote:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289999 My initial plan was to duplicate this build, but now I'm being inexplicably drawn to twin turbos...
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9.88 @ 144
https://youtu.be/nN0rz1RAcJw |
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08-07-2013, 01:07 PM
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#24 | |
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Hasbin of Stock Bottom HP
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I was leaning right now honestly to a 408 LQ9 Block. Something I can re-use my stock heads. I know your adding more weight over the nose to an already heavy car but I think its worth it for strength? I've also been contemplating selling the novi and buying the motor. Perhaps twin turbo. |
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08-07-2013, 01:15 PM
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#25 |
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Drives: 11 Seconds or Faster Join Date: May 2012
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Posts: 2,797
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I didn't mind the extra weight, it ended up being like 80lbs heavier. The iron block has much thicker sleeves, so that's part of it. The main reason I have the LSX is the six bolt heads, they become necessary after that 1000 wheel mark. I'm either running a set of 63s or an F1X with a direct port shot, maybe in the 250 range. To run nitrous and a blower I would recommend that you have the pistons gas ported, it keeps the rings from collapsing and is usually only 15 to 20 bucks a piston. I can't find the picture of mine right now, but this is a great example of them:
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I Ain't About That Stock Life.
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08-07-2013, 01:28 PM
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#26 | |
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Hasbin of Stock Bottom HP
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Quote:
http://texas-speed.com/p-588-tsp-408...ort-block.aspx It starts talking about pistons with -15cc dish and I'm just like  . Like what the hell is a reluctor wheel lol.
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08-07-2013, 01:36 PM
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#27 |
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Drives: 11 Seconds or Faster Join Date: May 2012
Location: Arvada, Colorado
Posts: 2,797
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You need a 58x reluctor wheel for our cars, and the -15cc dish is the piston head volume, dished (-) means that it is designed for lower compression, which is good for boosted motors. I have -32cc dished pistons in my motor for example.
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I Ain't About That Stock Life.
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08-07-2013, 01:43 PM
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#28 |
 
Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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1026rwhp/861rwtq at 22#
Engine Block: Stock LS3 Block 377 (stock stroke, 0.005 overbore) Crank: Rods: Callies Compstar 6.125 Pistons: Wiseco -11cc dish Heads: PRC LS3 260 heads (2.185 hollow intake, 1.6 stainless exhaust, 65cc chambers) 10:1CR with LS9 Gaskets and ARP studs Cam: 610/575 235/260 @050, 115+6 LSA speced by Martin at Tick Performance Timing Chain: C5R LS2 dampener Melling 10296 with blue spring Power adder Vortech Ysi cog driven (77T Procharger crank pulley I adapted and 27T blower pulley) BV57 Blowoff valve (LOUD) Ported LS3 Intake Ported LS2 TB Fuel sytem ID1000s Squash Fuel pumps 400LPH (stock feed line to -8 then split to -6 just before rails. -6 return line) Holley EFI rails Exhaust XSPower 2" headers, no cats, with 3" exhaust Other Tuned by Dave Steck (DSX Tuning) MAF, not speed density. Alky control trunk mount kit with dual M10 nozzles. MAF referenced. Engine and rear built by a guy no one on here has ever heard of and installed by me in my garage. The ironic part of this was I wanted to make 1000rwhp. I sent the car off for the AGP twin turbo kit and I didn't know what it made power wise. Joe@CPR and I had spoken, emailed, and messaged and he knew what I wanted. Joe@CPR is doing the install and it made the listed numbers during their baseline pulls. He called me to tell me how shocked everyone was and how the car won him a beer. The dyno place just pulled a turbo supra off that made 1002rwhp and the guy told Joe if the camaro outdid it, he would buy Joe a beer. Last edited by blake-b; 08-08-2013 at 04:19 PM. |
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