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Old 04-13-2012, 08:05 AM   #15
ecko04

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy_1980 View Post
I am using the factory wiring for the front speakers but not the rears. I thought you weren't using the factory wiring. Because I don't see where you're feeding back into in the pictures.

Mine is wired up as follows:

Front speakers:
PAC harness > ZISL > RCA > amp > PAC harness > my wires > factory wires > speaker wire adapter > crossovers > speakers

Rear speakers:
PAC harness > ZISL > RCA > amp > my wires > rear speakers
I'm using all factory wiring.

Basically I do this:

Vehicle side of PAC harness > Installbay Multiconductor wire > amp
Radio side of PAC harness > ZISL > RCA > amp

For my front components and rear speakers, I used the factory wiring with the appropriate speaker harnesses (except for wiring the crossovers). There was no need to run wires into the door, if i'm not mistaken, I think the door boot is actually a plug, which would be a huge PITA.

That's usually how I do a 4 channel regardless of the vehicle. Use the vehicle harness that plugs into the factory harness. Then send vehicle side through Installbay/Metra Multiconductor 4-channel speed wire. Plug in RCAs if the radio is equipped and tape off the speaker wires coming off the radio. If not equipped with RCAs, use 2 ZISL's on the speaker wires coming off the radio and run RCAs . Besides certain amp bypasses and faulty factory speaker wiring, I haven't had the need to run wires into the doors or rear speakers.
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Old 04-13-2012, 08:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepguy_1980 View Post
So it looks like you are using a 4-channel amp. Did you run the wires from your amp directly into the doors? I didn't even bother trying to tackle that problem. I ran my wires back into the PAC harness, which I admit is a compromise.
Ahh you may have missed a picture. Maybe this will clarify it.

The speaker wires are running into InstallBay/Metra Multiconductor wire, that's what's going back to the 4 channel amp. That's the amp input, from the vehicle side of the PAC harness.



The ZISLs are used from the radio side of the PAC harness, which gives us the RCAs to run to the amp.



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Old 05-16-2012, 06:27 PM   #17
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Dynamat installed











I would've used Fatmat, which is a little thinner than Dynamat but I get a really good deal on 20 sq/ft of Dynamat and I didn't have to wait for it to be delivered. Today was a beautiful day so I grabbed a 12 sq/ft kit I had for a few years and a 20 sq/ft kit and let the fun times begin.

In my 07 Scion tC, I used Fatmat throughout the entire vehicle (i.e. pulling out the seats & carpet) and applying from the firewall back. I don't believe i'll be going to that extreme. Then again, i'll never say never.
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Old 05-22-2012, 07:16 PM   #18
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So far i've tried 4 different 10" subs:

Kicker CVR (dual 2 ohm voice coils)
Polk Audio DXi 104 (dual 4 ohm voice coils)
Dayton Audio RSS265HF-4
Infinity Kappa 100.9w SSI

By far the best sounding was the Dayton. Kicker was the loudest. The best dollar-for-dollar value was the Polk and the Infinity (which is also the best looking) ranked just behind the Dayton. If I were on a strict budget, I would go with the Polk. Wired @ 8 ohms, the Polk sounds fantastic with this setup.

This is in a sealed enclosure with .8 ft^3 air space, light polyfill and powered by a Kicker ZX750.1 rated @ 1000 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. The majority of my music is hip-hop, R&B, jazz & rap.













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Old 05-22-2012, 08:01 PM   #19
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That is a great looking speaker. Must be nice to have all these speakers to play with.
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Old 12-15-2013, 05:36 PM   #20
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Hi Im planning on installing a Kenwood X450-4, Alpine SPR-60C and SPR-69s in my non BA 1ls. So from what I'm understanding I need the PAC AA-GM44 cut off the Line Out Converter connect it to a Kicker KISL 2 because the Kicker 09ZISL are apparently discontinued, run the RCA's to my amp and then speed wire from my amp to the Harness, solder the connections and I'm good to go, is there anything I'm missing? would you recommend wiring the rear speakers directly into the amp?
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:31 AM   #21
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Sounds like you have it figured out. I bought this setup already assembled from cmorebass. You can use shrink wrap or electrical tape and wrap everything to make the rca's and speedwire one big harness. Routes easily behind the glove box and down the right side of the car. I used ********'s amp board to mount my 6 ch jl audio amp....just beware, the signals are super loud and I have the gains at 0 on all channels. The blue amp remote wire works too...it really is plug and play, I would wire the rears into the speedwire.
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Old 12-16-2013, 01:45 AM   #22
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I'm going to bookmark this. I want to do a similar to my ride but I think this install might be a little over my head .
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:39 PM   #23
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Im just still a little confused on the part after the Pac harness is removed, I won't need to ground anything though because that is only from the pac harness? Also when I am running the speed wire up from the amp to the harness just solder the connections from the speed wire to the speaker wire from the harness? If thats it then the install doesn't seem all too hard, Im assuming that there is ample space for all 4 Rcas and the speed wire underneath the side trim right? Ive probably just been dreading this because when I first though about upgrading my audio system I didn't think it was going to be this much work, wish GM would just include RCA outs on the stock head unit haha.
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Old 12-16-2013, 11:43 PM   #24
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Just thought of something, would running two sets of speed wire one from the HU down to the amp, using the KISLs and plugging those directly into the amp and then running speed wire from the amp back up to the HU? That would basically eliminate having to use couplers and RCA cables entirely right? Is there enough room to run two sets of speed wire up to the head unit underneath the trim because I'm assuming that if theres enough for 4 rcas and speed wire that there should be?

Last edited by Armanhammer; 12-17-2013 at 02:08 AM.
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:48 AM   #25
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My Harness looks like this out of the box...it wasn't even attached to the LOC..are these the wires to cut for the speakers near the white connector..
sorry I just wanna be sure this is done right Sorry was gonna post this in a different thread but I see where you did this mod with using the KSIL's to RCA bypassing the LOC on the GM44.
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:58 AM   #26
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how's the Daytons sounding? thought about getting a Titanic..only Kickers worthwhile are the Solobarics, imo.
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Old 03-22-2014, 04:22 PM   #27
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Cant see the pics
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:45 PM   #28
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I went this route with my audio. Im running Infinty kappa 6.5 components and Infinity Kappa 6x9 ran off a Hifonics 100.4 for all of them. Im also running 2 kicker l7s ran off a hifonics 1600.1. Im using the kicker kisls instead of the pac loc. Here is the problem im having. Whenever I turn the radio up the front door speakers are cutting in and out and making terrible sounds. But when the volume is low it doesnt do it. Ive switched out the speakers and it did the same thing and ive switched amps. So it has to be in the wiring somewhere. Or would it be the crossovers for the components? Im gonna order another Pac harness and try it with their LOC and see if it does the same thing. Im getting very frustrated lol
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