My boosted full bolt on v6.

[V6owner]

Originally Posted by IBM camaro

Mine is an auto LLT 2011 his was a manual LS3 please read this.

You should get a torque converter

[IBM camaro]

How much will that run me?

[V6owner]

$600-$800 plus install

[PoorMansCamaro]

I trapped 104, with about 350 at the wheel. manual LLT

[KMPrenger]

Originally Posted by GretchenGotGrowl

Is it just me, or does anyone else think a 103 trap is way low for a S/C V6? Assuming the SS was a L99, then I would expect it to trap around 108-109 with just a CAI, which it did. I would think his car would trap 110+.

Agree...it seems low to me as well. Something going on. Who knows. Maybe another trip to the track would yeild better results with more experience.

[KMPrenger]

Originally Posted by GretchenGotGrowl

Screen name appears to be Murnaneaa and he last visited about 3 months ago. Get his butt in here to update us.

I checked out his profile and he has mods listed in his sig. of course it may not be up to date any longer, but i see nothing there looks substaintial to me to get those times. Except for one thing.... "weight reductions". Surely to get times like that I'd expect his to be running light wheels with drag tires which likely lower his gear ratio. That combined with significant weight reduction and I can see him running low 13s, but 13.1 still sounds like a stretch. Maybe he's on the "NOS ?

[BaylorCamaro]

Originally Posted by sycraft

Mine traps a solid 109 on a 1/4 mile run. thats with a soft launch and spinning through first.

If you spin you will trap higher, not lower.

[sycraft]

Originally Posted by BaylorCamaro

If you spin you will trap higher, not lower.

Good to know- why is that? hard to comprehend oh master of drag...... usually 109 is my trap speed all things considered.

[GretchenGotGrowl]

Originally Posted by IBM camaro

Mine is an auto LLT 2011 his was a manual LS3 please read this.

Thanks for that. So, based on your dyno and his one mod, you really should make similar HP, with his peaking a bit earlier than yours. Yet, your down 5 MPH on your trap. So, is it possible your car is shifting too early? You probably want it to start the shift from 1-2 at about 6400 RPM and 2-3 about 6700. That will allow you to use the peak power you are making at the higher RPM. More time you are near your peak HP the better your trap will be.

[BaylorCamaro]

Originally Posted by sycraft

Good to know- why is that? hard to comprehend oh master of drag...... usually 109 is my trap speed all things considered.

The quicker you get down the track (the less time you sit spinning) the less time you build speed.

On my nittos I cut a 1.8 60' and got 13.1 @ 103-104 but on street tires I was cutting 2.0+ and trapping 105-107 with a 13.3-13.5 et.

Just take a minute and think about what is going on, if you spin off the line you are building up your "speed." If I take traction control off and mash the gas I don't go anywhere and just spin yet it says I'm doing 20 mph.

Similarly, if you bog off the line you will have a slower trap speed.

I have yet to have a pass down the 1/4 where my trap speed is the same between a good 60' (1.8) vs a bad 60' (2.0+).

Now this is just from my own experience and from what I have been told from some of the locals at the track.

[V6owner]

Originally Posted by BaylorCamaro

Simple physics really... The quicker you get down the track (the less time you sit spinning) the less time you build speed.

On my nittos I cut a 1.8 60' and got 13.1 @ 103-104 but on street tires I was cutting 2.0+ and trapping 105-107 with a 13.3-13.5 et.

Just take a minute and think about what is going on, if you spin off the line you are building up your "speed." If I take traction control off and mash the gas I don't go anywhere and just spin yet it says I'm doing 20 mph.

Similarly, if you bog off the line you will have a slower trap speed.

I have yet to have a pass down the 1/4 where my trap speed is the same between a good 60' (1.8) vs a bad 60' (2.0+).

+1

[lscamaro]

Originally Posted by BaylorCamaro

The quicker you get down the track (the less time you sit spinning) the less time you build speed.

On my nittos I cut a 1.8 60' and got 13.1 @ 103-104 but on street tires I was cutting 2.0+ and trapping 105-107 with a 13.3-13.5 et.

Just take a minute and think about what is going on, if you spin off the line you are building up your "speed." If I take traction control off and mash the gas I don't go anywhere and just spin yet it says I'm doing 20 mph.

Similarly, if you bog off the line you will have a slower trap speed.

I have yet to have a pass down the 1/4 where my trap speed is the same between a good 60' (1.8) vs a bad 60' (2.0+).

Now this is just from my own experience and from what I have been told from some of the locals at the track.

You're completely right, the more you spin, the higher you'll trap. What you explained is exactly what's going on.

[SC2150]

Good info from Gretchen, Baylor, and v6owner.

Weight is the cheapest and best way to lower ET. The stock mufflers deleted saves what, 60-70#'s or so? Start there (Murnanee has no mufflers so that is a big boost, and aftermarket wheels....but still stock style tries. I told him to get drag radials on shorter rims. No boost or we would see it when its in for work.)

As gretch stated, shift points are very critical, and the right stall converter is .3-.4 tenths on the V6.

Sycraft's I am willing to bet will trap even higher with his new clutch and power.....but he is setup for the road track and that's where he will shine. Also, stage shallow...barely light the second bulb as this gives you a small head start on breaking the beam. If your deep (top bulb goes out) you will run a bit slower.

[lscamaro]

Originally Posted by SC2150

Good info from Gretchen, Baylor, and v6owner.

Weight is the cheapest and best way to lower ET. The stock mufflers deleted saves what, 60-70#'s or so? Start there (Murnanee has no mufflers so that is a big boost, and aftermarket wheels....but still stock style tries. I told him to get drag radials on shorter rims. No boost or we would see it when its in for work.)

As gretch stated, shift points are very critical, and the right stall converter is .3-.4 tenths on the V6.

Sycraft's I am willing to bet will trap even higher with his new clutch and power.....but he is setup for the road track and that's where he will shine. Also, stage shallow...barely light the second bulb as this gives you a small head start on breaking the beam. If your deep (top bulb goes out) you will run a bit slower.

No way the mufflers will give you a 60-70 pound weight saving. I think it's about 45 pounds if you do the delete.

I agree that a good stock converter will yield great results, even though we've yet to see any timeslips to prove this, but it'll only yield great times with traction which he is already lacking.