03-25-2013, 10:12 AM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: plainfield, IL
Posts: 2,706
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Mod or beef up stock axle?
Is this possible, can I beef up the stock axle? The price for aftermarket is crazy!
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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03-25-2013, 10:21 AM | #2 |
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No, you can't mod the stock axle. You might consider looking into the 1LE axles. I've heard that they are supposedly "better", but not sure how true that is. I remember reading one post where a guy bought a set, and the actual diameter of the shaft was the same, but the overall diameter of the CV joint was a little bigger. Well, it's an option to look into anyway. Other than that....yeah, you're stuck paying DSS or GForce prices!!!
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03-25-2013, 10:49 AM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: plainfield, IL
Posts: 2,706
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Looks like I will be taking my chances. I dont understand why we dont have replacement alxe that has a stronger cv joint!
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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03-25-2013, 12:03 PM | #4 |
Make your peace with God!
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS/RS M6 Convertible Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Dirty Jersey
Posts: 1,595
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It's about saving money. You should be ok for a while with your setup. Just keep an eye out in the marketplace for someone selling a set.
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03-25-2013, 12:12 PM | #5 |
Drives: 2SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: St. louis
Posts: 161
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1100+ rwhp through stock driveline (besides the clutch) and still holding. At first it was a joke to see how long they will last but now I really am curious. I contribute the lasting effects to a great mechanic, CBI Streetcars and, fixing the problems with the car. It's obviously not power that kills the axle's as 426 FWHP has been enough to break them. I believe that weak or noise reducing parts of the suspension allow things to bind and/or create wheel hop which is a number one killer of any axle. Luckily BMR has many great things to offer to help the 5th gen track straight and true. I strongly encourage if you want stock axles to live then upgrade some bushings at the very least.
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03-25-2013, 12:33 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: plainfield, IL
Posts: 2,706
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Bushings will help huh.... Let me ask this, is there any way to tell if my axles are on there way out! My car has wheel hopped pretty bad a few times! Been lucky so far. Going to put some tires on soon, I dont plan on dumping the clutch but I will drive it hard, would be nice if I can inspect them some how.
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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03-25-2013, 12:38 PM | #7 |
Drives: 2010 SS , 1970 Z-28, 2002 Avalanche Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,524
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If you have not changed out your stock track arms and toe rods to something better your wheel hop is going to make everything "go south" in a hurry!!! Axles, rear end, etc.
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03-25-2013, 12:58 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: plainfield, IL
Posts: 2,706
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I never had a problem till last summer, car would spin only! Last summer it started and it happened a few times pretty bad! Should I get trailing arms first? Hope everything is ok still, I have about a 100 passes in this car since it was stock! My posi has been working ok, gets both tires going still so thats good.
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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03-25-2013, 02:16 PM | #9 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
Posts: 4,544
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Axles will fail in one of 2 ways:
1) Grenade under load 2) vomit grease from the CV with failure in the near future. I would definitely remove wheel hop first on an M6. Cradle bushings and trailing arm bushings. |
03-25-2013, 02:31 PM | #10 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: plainfield, IL
Posts: 2,706
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My cv boots are dry, checked that like a month ago! I do have a leak coming from my pinion seal looks like though. Gonna change the fluid in it again soon. What about bushing inserts, seems like a do it yourself job I can handle!
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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03-25-2013, 02:43 PM | #11 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
Posts: 4,544
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The install is easier but since you like to drag I would do full bushings. The method I've seen recently of heating up the cradle and using a jack to push it out looks pretty easy to do on stands. Way easier than when I did it overhead with a reciprocating saw.
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03-25-2013, 02:49 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 aqua blue SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: plainfield, IL
Posts: 2,706
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Thanks I will look into this, do you recomend trailing arms or bushings first? I will eventually do both.
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10.91 at 122 H/C stock block N/A
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03-25-2013, 03:27 PM | #13 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
Posts: 4,544
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Trailing arm is fast but cradle bushes helped more. Ideally do both at once and get a good alignment after. I did mine in stages too due to time limitations but in hindsight all at once would have been better to minimize repeated steps and a single high quality alignment.
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03-25-2013, 03:51 PM | #14 |
Livin the Dream
Drives: sold Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: The Good Land
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DSS has an upgrade to the stock axles for I believe 100 a pair, don't quote me but I think they upgrade the grease and put better clamps on the boots. I have a set of slp take offs that are packaged awaiting shipment to DSS (Drive Shaft Shop) i think they are a sponsor on here as well.
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