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Old 11-27-2015, 07:44 PM   #1
idealer
 
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Drives: 2015 2LT Convertible
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How to easily make your 12V Power outlet always on

You can do this for less than 10 dollars without running wires like you just don't care.

You will need the items pictured in the first picture.
An inline fuse holder from Autozone or Walmart for about 4 bucks and two connectors. (Please for legal reasons, I am just putting down what I did to my car. This is not an advice. Follow at your own risk)

1. Your fuse panel is at the end of the driver side dash, it has 3 tabs for the first time just pull gently until it comes off.

2. Trim the buck connectors as shown remove a little at a time until you can get a tight fit in one leg of a fuse holder

3. Grimp them together as shown

4. For me I only wanted one of the 12v to be always on not both. Just the one near the front of the shifter. This one is #17 on the fuse box. The one under the arm rest is #18

5. All positions are assumed that you are kneeling on the floor outside the driver door and facing the front of the car.

6. From this position the #17 will be the first 20 amp fuse after the middle relay as shown in the pic.

7. Remove the #17 fuse and put it in the fuse holder you just made.

8. Insert one end of the buck connectors to the leg of the #17 fuse nearest to you (Confirm with a text light that this is the ground as it is in my 2015 2LT)

9. Insert the other end of the inline fuse at the leg of the fuse further from you in the empty fuse holder at the bottom

10 Ensure a tight fit and close your fuse panel. You now have 12V at the shifter area.Name:  2015-11-27 12.10.53.jpg
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Old 11-27-2015, 07:57 PM   #2
JCunningham


 
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with a SS you dont need to do all that. there is a 12v constant in the same harness. all you need to do is splice into it. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197946
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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Old 11-27-2015, 08:04 PM   #3
idealer
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
with a SS you dont need to do all that. there is a 12v constant in the same harness. all you need to do is splice into it. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197946
Yes I am aware of that thread. This is for those of us who may not want to splice there wiring harness. The advantages of this my setup over the one you mentioned is
1. It can easily be removed in less than a minute and takes only about 15 to 20 minutes to setup the first time.

2. No factory wiring harness is compromised

3. I am using empty spare fuse slot and not tapping into a wire no one is sure what it actually does. (This is what I specifically wanted to avoid)

Options never hurts, people can choose what they want to do. Just chiming in my 2 cents
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Old 11-27-2015, 08:47 PM   #4
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ya Actually your way is better now that i think about it. whenever you can not permanently modify something its a good thing.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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