06-21-2015, 11:18 PM | #29 | |
Drives: 2014 Camaro 1LT/RS Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,693
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Detailing is an involuntary obsession.
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06-22-2015, 07:08 AM | #30 | |
I like teeth.
Drives: #198 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Posts: 4,817
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Please check out my youtube detailing channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/roshan517 "When you want to succeed as bad as you want to breathe, then you will be successful." |
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06-22-2015, 07:57 AM | #31 |
Drives: 2015 Camaro RS 2LT AGM Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 672
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This is getting annoying
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2015 RS Camaro 2LT with Sunroof, Performance Exhaust, Ground Effects, Tinted Windows, LED Fog Lights(DD), CAI Cold Air Intake, Ghosted Side Markers(Showstopper), Elite Catch Can, Xpel & SunTek PPF, Replica Z28 High Wing Spoiler, ZL1 Replica Wheels(Satin Black Factory Reproductions) |
06-24-2015, 10:09 PM | #32 |
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Well I haven't received a response from Kevin. So I called another well established detailer I know and he explained it like this. IPA removes waxes and sealants by dissolving them. How much does it dissolve? No way of really knowing, as how much wax/sealant is actually on the surface will vary from car to car.
Claying will remove some wax and sealant as well. How much? Again too many variables, how well was the surface prepped before application? How durable is the product used? How degraded had it become from being on the car? Paint prep products come in two forms, abrasive and non-abrasive. They can actually lift the old wax/sealant that remains off the surface, abrasive one's will remove embedded contaminates that clay cannot. So what's the bottom line? If your going to compound and polish the car anyway, the clay will remove some of what's left on, (Of course if your doing a conventional 2 bucket wash, a soap like chemical guys citrus used in stronger concentration will strip the old wax/sealant) and the minimum amount that's left on the surface will be removed by the compound anyway. So prepping with either IPA or a paint prep at this point is unnecessary, as the compound will be abrading the surface and removing it anyway. After polishing IPA can be used to remove the residue left over. If your just doing a wash and wax/sealant without polishing, paint prep is a good idea after claying, to remove old residue, and also embedded contaminates the clay didn't get, to maximize the bond between the paint and the LSP. It's kind of like taking a piece of tape and trying to stick it to a dirty surface. It won't bond as well as it would if the surface was clean. |
06-25-2015, 01:17 PM | #33 | |
Drives: Supercharged 2013 AGM 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 786
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o04_s00 Obviously not a practical solution for someone planning to spend ample time detailing, but I've gotten a good couple of hours out of it, which suits my needs.
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2013 AGM 2SS/RS
SLP TVS2300, Edge CAI, 3" Magnaflow catback, BC Racing BR series coilovers, HRE FF15's (20x10 square) with Michelin Pilot Sport 4S's, GM STB, BMR front and rear sway bars and toe links, Prothane subframe bushings and front control arm inserts, JDP rear upper control arm bushings, Elite Engineering catch can. Tuned by Cunningham Motorsports. 1967 Bolero Red 396 SS/RS Convertible Last edited by HAMBO; 06-25-2015 at 01:39 PM. |
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06-25-2015, 06:03 PM | #34 | |
Drives: 2011 SGM 1SS/RS M6 Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: New England
Posts: 255
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We are in a first floor unit facing the parking lot, and have several outlets on our patio that I can use (cars are only 6' off the patio). Next time around I might drive up to my parents and camp out for the day, they have a car port I can utilize.
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Current: 2011 SGM Camaro 1SS/RS M6 - CAI Cold Air Kit, Janetty Tuned
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06-28-2015, 05:48 PM | #35 |
Drives: 1968 Coupe, 2010 2SS, 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: WIsconsin
Posts: 1,252
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So it's been a while from me to post on here, but it does seem like an unnecessary step to IPA. Without trying "whip out" my resume, the best way I found to truly get rid of most LSP before taking the polisher back to the surface was to toss a cap full of ACP into my wash bucket. How did I know all of the LSP was gone? I could tell when I dried the car just by how the water blew off vs when there was still product on the surface. Now before I would dry off the car and after the wash, I would clay, then wash the car again, rinse then dry. That's just my routine for when I clay but before I polish and one could argue this a worthless step. Regardless, I think we agree the goal is to get as much of the old stuff off before taking the polisher to the surface, but the surface is fairly forgiving if you don't get absolutely every last inch of LSP and you'll damn sure get it with the polisher.
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