Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
 
Bigwormgraphix
Go Back   Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com > Engine | Drivetrain | Powertrain Technical Discussions > Camaro V8 LS3 / L99 Engine, Exhaust, and Bolt-Ons


Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 06-04-2015, 12:58 AM   #15
JCunningham


 
JCunningham's Avatar
 
Drives: 2017 2SS M6
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
from what iv been told you need the car 4 feet in the air to put it in all 1 piece. im on stands
__________________
real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
JCunningham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2015, 02:06 AM   #16
blake-b


 
blake-b's Avatar
 
Drives: 2009 ZR1
Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
from what iv been told you need the car 4 feet in the air to put it in all 1 piece. im on stands
You don't need 4', more like 2'-3'. Jack the back end up higher than the front. You might need 4' if you are removing the engine/trans cradle from the bottom. You don't need as much if you are taking it out the top.

If it helps, take the front wheels off and set it down just a little bit. Also, take off the hood. 4 bolts and undo the rod that holds it up and it is out. The rod has a little clip on it, just pry it out (not off).

The weight of the trans will angle the whole assembly down. With the back of the car higher than the front, the angling down makes it very easy to take out the engine. I did it all by myself. Just make sure you have enough room at the front of the car to pull the engine hoist back enough until you can raise the assembly for the trans to clear the bay.

I plan on installing it the same way: engine/trans together. Up and over the radiator support. Lower slowly to line up the engine mounts. I'm also going to make sure to have a helper too. Another thing I plan on doing is having something under the car like a block of wood or an extra floorjack for the trans is so it doesn't go onto the floor.

It is hard to tell in the pic, but the back end of then car is probably 3' in the air. I am 6'1 and can see over the trunk. This is how my car has been since I removed the engine/trans. The front end is low enough I can step over the radiator support to step on the front engine cross member.
Attached Images
 
blake-b is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2015, 02:14 AM   #17
JCunningham


 
JCunningham's Avatar
 
Drives: 2017 2SS M6
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
i have no way of getting the back of the car up 3'. I do have the bumper, wheels, and hood off.
__________________
real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
JCunningham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2015, 03:55 AM   #18
blake-b


 
blake-b's Avatar
 
Drives: 2009 ZR1
Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
Do you have a floor jack you can put some wood on to get more lift?

You could get by with less height, the important thing is being able to get the transmission into the tunnel without scraping it badly along the floor. I suppose you could get the back as high as you can, put a creeper or something that will slide or roll easily and lower the transmission tail onto it. Then, roll/push the assembly back and, as the trans approaches the firewall, lower it and hope there is enough height for the bellhousing to go into the transmission tunnel.

Theoretically, if you have a smooth concrete floor, there won't be any damage to the trans by sliding it on the floor itself. Especially if it is lowered gently onto it.
blake-b is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2015, 05:45 AM   #19
snarky
ultracrepidarianism
 
snarky's Avatar
 
Drives: '14 1SS/RS/1LE/NPP '18 Accord Sport
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: where folks drive like shit
Posts: 1,297
__________________
snarky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2015, 09:53 AM   #20
Pluto

 
Pluto's Avatar
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS/RS
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: South Texas
Posts: 1,191
Yeah before anything I would try the bleeding route it just sucks that you can't get to it until Monday
__________________
2013 VR Camaro 2SS/RS LS3

Small, but effective mod list:

Roto-Fab Intake, TSP 2" Long tubes, TSP catless mids, MSD spark plug wires, stock catback, Elite Catch Can, APEX washer relocation and scoop, VMAX throttle body, Diablo InTune-Tuned by Matt@FSP, and a JacFab license plate bracket.
Pluto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2015, 10:24 AM   #21
AITI
Account Suspended
 
Drives: 2015 LFX Auto
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: US of A
Posts: 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
i did tighten it in a crisscross pattern with the tool. the tool will still go all the way in.
did a cam, lifters, oil pickup tube, Improved Racing oil baffle, and crank scraper.
Aries the car is on stands so theres not enough room to put the engine and trans in the car together correct? I was thinking remove the trans and let it sit on the floor. bolt engine in then put trany in.
Even though the alignment tool slides in. it still could be slightly off. Thats why it is critical to wiggle it all ways so you judge the center of the play. Don't force it. Also, inspect the pilot bearing you installed to ensure it was not damaged. Good luck!
AITI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2015, 11:19 AM   #22
GMfan454
 
Drives: 2012 IOM 2SS/RS 6spd manual
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 401
Quote:
Originally Posted by Homeless Man View Post
Why was it out
My question as well. OP, you are a far superior/braver mechanic than myself.
GMfan454 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-04-2015, 01:15 PM   #23
JCunningham


 
JCunningham's Avatar
 
Drives: 2017 2SS M6
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
Quote:
Originally Posted by JCunningham View Post
did a cam, lifters, oil pickup tube, Improved Racing oil baffle, and crank scraper.
and a Monster billet bearing support and remote bleeder
__________________
real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
JCunningham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2015, 09:33 AM   #24
1977and2010
Tampa Gulf Coast Family
 
1977and2010's Avatar
 
Drives: 1977 Z28, 2SSRS 2010 M6
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dunedin FL
Posts: 810
I had to loosen the two Caitlynn bolts and jack the Caitlynn up and down a few times to get everything to line up. I've unfortunately had to do it twice by myself. The angles have to be just right. Also like said before wiggle the driveshaft and or crank balancer.
__________________
1977and2010 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2015, 09:38 AM   #25
DieselMD @ Futral
 
DieselMD @ Futral's Avatar
 
Drives: G8
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: La
Posts: 110
Line it up perfectly the way you had it, then have someone hold pressure on the front pushing in toward the trans. Get in the car and push the clutch pedal quickly (assuming its bled). This will let the disc align and motor fall into place.
DieselMD @ Futral is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2015, 12:57 PM   #26
JCunningham


 
JCunningham's Avatar
 
Drives: 2017 2SS M6
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
its not bled
__________________
real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
JCunningham is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2015, 08:48 PM   #27
h018871
Geoff
 
h018871's Avatar
 
Drives: 2020 ZL1 Green
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,720
OP I had similar difficulty reinstalling my motor. Dropped the trans, put the engine in place and then stabbed the trans. This is a pain, but the way I got it together
__________________
h018871 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2015, 06:34 AM   #28
JCunningham


 
JCunningham's Avatar
 
Drives: 2017 2SS M6
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
im thinking that might be the way ill have to do it.
__________________
real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
JCunningham is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:15 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.