06-04-2015, 12:58 AM | #15 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
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from what iv been told you need the car 4 feet in the air to put it in all 1 piece. im on stands
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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06-04-2015, 02:06 AM | #16 | |
Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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If it helps, take the front wheels off and set it down just a little bit. Also, take off the hood. 4 bolts and undo the rod that holds it up and it is out. The rod has a little clip on it, just pry it out (not off). The weight of the trans will angle the whole assembly down. With the back of the car higher than the front, the angling down makes it very easy to take out the engine. I did it all by myself. Just make sure you have enough room at the front of the car to pull the engine hoist back enough until you can raise the assembly for the trans to clear the bay. I plan on installing it the same way: engine/trans together. Up and over the radiator support. Lower slowly to line up the engine mounts. I'm also going to make sure to have a helper too. Another thing I plan on doing is having something under the car like a block of wood or an extra floorjack for the trans is so it doesn't go onto the floor. It is hard to tell in the pic, but the back end of then car is probably 3' in the air. I am 6'1 and can see over the trunk. This is how my car has been since I removed the engine/trans. The front end is low enough I can step over the radiator support to step on the front engine cross member. |
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06-04-2015, 02:14 AM | #17 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
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i have no way of getting the back of the car up 3'. I do have the bumper, wheels, and hood off.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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06-04-2015, 03:55 AM | #18 |
Drives: 2009 ZR1 Join Date: May 2010
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,205
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Do you have a floor jack you can put some wood on to get more lift?
You could get by with less height, the important thing is being able to get the transmission into the tunnel without scraping it badly along the floor. I suppose you could get the back as high as you can, put a creeper or something that will slide or roll easily and lower the transmission tail onto it. Then, roll/push the assembly back and, as the trans approaches the firewall, lower it and hope there is enough height for the bellhousing to go into the transmission tunnel. Theoretically, if you have a smooth concrete floor, there won't be any damage to the trans by sliding it on the floor itself. Especially if it is lowered gently onto it. |
06-04-2015, 05:45 AM | #19 |
ultracrepidarianism
Drives: '14 1SS/RS/1LE/NPP '18 Accord Sport Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: where folks drive like shit
Posts: 1,297
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06-04-2015, 09:53 AM | #20 |
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Yeah before anything I would try the bleeding route it just sucks that you can't get to it until Monday
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2013 VR Camaro 2SS/RS LS3
Small, but effective mod list: Roto-Fab Intake, TSP 2" Long tubes, TSP catless mids, MSD spark plug wires, stock catback, Elite Catch Can, APEX washer relocation and scoop, VMAX throttle body, Diablo InTune-Tuned by Matt@FSP, and a JacFab license plate bracket. |
06-04-2015, 10:24 AM | #21 | |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2015 LFX Auto Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: US of A
Posts: 280
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06-04-2015, 11:19 AM | #22 |
Drives: 2012 IOM 2SS/RS 6spd manual Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 401
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06-04-2015, 01:15 PM | #23 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
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and a Monster billet bearing support and remote bleeder
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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06-05-2015, 09:33 AM | #24 |
Tampa Gulf Coast Family
Drives: 1977 Z28, 2SSRS 2010 M6 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dunedin FL
Posts: 810
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I had to loosen the two Caitlynn bolts and jack the Caitlynn up and down a few times to get everything to line up. I've unfortunately had to do it twice by myself. The angles have to be just right. Also like said before wiggle the driveshaft and or crank balancer.
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06-05-2015, 09:38 AM | #25 |
Drives: G8 Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: La
Posts: 110
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Line it up perfectly the way you had it, then have someone hold pressure on the front pushing in toward the trans. Get in the car and push the clutch pedal quickly (assuming its bled). This will let the disc align and motor fall into place.
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06-05-2015, 12:57 PM | #26 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
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its not bled
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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06-06-2015, 08:48 PM | #27 |
Geoff
Drives: 2020 ZL1 Green Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,720
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OP I had similar difficulty reinstalling my motor. Dropped the trans, put the engine in place and then stabbed the trans. This is a pain, but the way I got it together
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06-07-2015, 06:34 AM | #28 |
Drives: 2017 2SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: WNY
Posts: 7,070
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im thinking that might be the way ill have to do it.
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real ZL1 wheels and brakes, 285/305 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Pray ported Intake manifold, Soler Throttle Body, Rotofab intake, EFI Tuning Flex fuel kit, full American Racing Headers Exhaust, 1 7/8" w/ cats H pipe and mufflers. Full 1LE suspension, with BMR adjustable sway bars and links, GM aluminum cradle bushings, Hurst shifter with lighter reverse spring, TWM shifter knob, Tick level 1 transmission. I should have bought a ZL1
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