Car shaking when braking at high speeds?

[1KillerSS]

Originally Posted by Adrian97c

I have a 2014 SS, only 15k miles...... When I brake at speeds over 40mph the car shakes!

I never had this problem with my 2011 Kia Optima, but with my 2006 Pontiac G6 I had the rotors cut every 6 months!

I drive like a grandpa & brake slowly/gradually.

So has anyone else dealt with this at only 15k miles??

On my new 06 Silverado I had that happen, but not on my Camaro. Either way, turning them will only solve the problem for a few thousand miles. The pulsation will come back if not replaced. Make sure anybody who touches your wheels torques them properly.

[Adrian97c]

Originally Posted by 1KillerSS

On my new 06 Silverado I had that happen, but not on my Camaro. Either way, turning them will only solve the problem for a few thousand miles. The pulsation will come back if not replaced. Make sure anybody who touches your wheels torques them properly.

You mean the rotors "replaced"? Are there a better kind vs the factory ones? Cuz with only 15k miles this is concerning.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[1KillerSS]

Originally Posted by Adrian97c

You mean the rotors "replaced"? Are there a better kind vs the factory ones? Cuz with only 15k miles this is concerning.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes factory rotors are good, your experience is uncommon. Your dealer will try to turn them. I believe that's what they have to do first before they can replace them. Just keep a note of it for when it happens again.

[rberns]

Rotors are warped so the dealer 1. replaced them or 2. shaved them so they weren't warped any more.

Did they do this to all 4 rotors? if not it may be another one acting up.

[Red2014SS]

... just wanted to add - a bad tire can cause this too. But it is probably a rotor.

[Adrian97c]

Thx for all your responses, at about 10k miles I had an incident that caused me to get both passenger side wheels/tires replaced & alignment (spun out & slammed a curb), but hadn't noticed the shakes until 5k miles later.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[i2disturbedSS]

Are your tires pointing in the correct direction?

[Scalded Dog]

Originally Posted by Comrando

Sometime brake pad material can accumulate on the rotors.

Get up to ~60MPH and smash the brakes down to almost a stop (~10MPH).
Drive a bit so they cool and then do it again.
Drive a bit so they cool and then do it again.
Drive a bit so they cool.

I tried this yesterday. Did it in the left lane, so I could get up to higher speeds. Man, people behind me on the 405 were PISSED. They kept flashing their lights, honking, and it looked like a couple of cars behind me spun out.

[Scalded Dog]

But, seriously, folks....

Always do your homework before getting rotors turned (that's the term used to describe taking your old, warped rotors, and grinding/ shaving/ chiseling them back to less Pringle and more tostada shell). Turning the rotors makes them thinner, and even MORE vulnerable to future warping... AND, in many cases, brand- spankin' new--- smooth, fat, unused--- rotors can cost less than having the old crappy ones turned. On my Suburban, the shop wanted over $120 to turn the pair.... brand new rotors cost me $25 each. No contest.

[Adrian97c]

Either way, needing new rotors on a brand new $40k camaro with only $15k miles is a bummer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[SlingShot]

Originally Posted by Adrian97c

Either way, needing new rotors on a brand new $40k camaro with only $15k miles is astonishing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not if you were in a wreck ... My ZL1 got hit by a red light runner, after repairs the car was fine. A month later it started getting a shake at high speeds and the right front rotor and bearings needed to be replaced. Insurance took care of it, but it didn't show it's face till after the fact.

[Adrian97c]

Interesting, I hit a curb hard enough to scratch the rims badly & blow both tires.. So this might be the reason why. Hmm

But my wheel & tire warranty covered the repairs, my actual auto INS had/has no idea of my spin out incident. Wonder if they would now (3 months later), cover any expenses due to shaking. Anyhow my ins has a $500 deductable, so hoping this cost a lot less then that lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[sbubbaklein]

If auto trans, do you one foot drive or two foot. Two foot drivers tend to drag the brakes while accelerating.

[speedygonzales]

Originally Posted by SlingShot

Not if you were in a wreck ... My ZL1 got hit by a red light runner, after repairs the car was fine. A month later it started getting a shake at high speeds and the right front rotor and bearings needed to be replaced. Insurance took care of it, but it didn't show it's face till after the fact.

Originally Posted by Adrian97c

Interesting, I hit a curb hard enough to scratch the rims badly & blow both tires.. So this might be the reason why. Hmm

But my wheel & tire warranty covered the repairs, my actual auto INS had/has no idea of my spin out incident. Wonder if they would now (3 months later), cover any expenses due to shaking. Anyhow my ins has a $500 deductable, so hoping this cost a lot less then that lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

First there is a big difference between slingshots incident and yours. He probably had a police report and you don't. So insurance is not likely to just dump money on something you say cause you want something. (Picture someone wanting a new differential). Yeah yeah you got a work order from a garage saying something is damaged. Big deal.

Second why would you not think the curb incident caused your issue? Because some time went by before you noticed it? There is always a reason something does what it does. Rather than think something came about randomly always go to something known to occur.

It's highly likely you damaged something that has not yet been discovered. However, you claimed to have had an alignment. So geometry should be good. Alignment can not cause vibration. Not if the vehicle is in good drivable condition. Obviously alignment would influence the vehicle all the time, not just at braking. But again, alignment does NOT cause vibration.

Poor alignment can cause tire wear. If the tires wear enough, they can vibrate. I believe the shop that checked your alignment did the normal front end alignment and all was good. However they may not have checked the alignment of all four wheels.

With regard to warped rotors. When wheels are put back on, too much torque can warp rotors.

If you see a tech with an impact, if they don't have torque sticks, get the vehicle away from them. Here's a picture of a set of them.

http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...tu_qeFWsIQ.jpg

They should be torquing the lug nuts about 1/2 torque all the way round then a second time to the final torque. Using torque sticks (which only allow the impact to tighten to a designated amount) stops them from being over torqued or grossly imbalanced. By imbalanced I mean, one of the lugs at the maximum while the others are not even on the vehicle.

With regard to warping a rotor however. If it were warped, you should notice it at nearly all speeds and particularly as you are slowing down say nearing a light. As you apply the brake and gradually slow down, you should feel the car lunging forward (hard to describe) as the brakes grab and release. It should be real obvious at that point.

Experiment: If you suspect the front rotors are warped, try braking using the emergency brake. It only uses the back brakes. In your particular case, it could only be on one side. If that were the case, the car should pull to one side. You didn't mention that.

Sorry for rambling on but if your problem is not rotor warping I think the problem is in the back end of the vehicle. I believe you threw off the rear axle geometry when you hit the curb. But again only if the rotors are NOT warped.

The rotors can be checked with a dial indicator WITHOUT removing them from the spindles.

You also might want to start your own thread instead of bringing back a nearly 4 year old post. Just an opinion.