Have you seen this?!

[nUcLeArEnVoY]

My Camaro is living (or rather driving) testimony that Opti-Coat is amazing stuff. I've been using it before it even started to pop up everywhere on this board.

Does it really matter if it still scratches and swirls? I see everyone complaining about that. Who gives a crap? You have to look at the bigger picture. You can keep your factory paint virtually untouched for good if you layer it in opti-coat, and even though it's not "diamond hard", it's definitely harder than factory clear. Additionally, you never even have to wax again!

This durability test took my breath away... the opti-coat effectively intercepted CLEARCOAT FAILURE. If that alone doesn't sell you on the product, then I don't know what does.

I didn't Opti-coat my whole car since I love to apply waxes and sealants, but I did opti-coat the rear bumper since it is the most prone to scratches and UV fade.

I also applied opti-coat to the lips on my aftermarket wheels since the factory clearcoat they put on them is absolute crap and is notorious for peeling/flaking within a year. Needless to say, that hasn't happened once since I applied opti-coat. The results speak for themselves.

If you love to wax your car, then there is no point in Opti-Coating it, but judging by what you can see in the durability test linked by the OP, you can't sit there and tell me you can't think of at least a FEW parts on your car you would like to apply that kind of protection to.

[2010camarolt]

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

It will shine yes, just check the last link.

And I don't think ANYTHING is swirl proof.



No worries, I've been doing a bunch of research, so I know the answer to this.

If you polish using Optimum's polish, you are safe to use opticoat straight after.

If you another manufacturer's polish, you should do a 15% IPA wipedown to remove polishing oils, and then you are good to apply the opticoat.

i just got the adams pc kit but i think i might want to try this out

[Todd@Autopia]

Oh boy... I'm going to try to do my best to answer the questions/posts, please bare with me!

Originally Posted by jrisebo

I read thru it, and didnt see if after washing it ever he added a wax to protect it, or dont you add wax on top?

Opti-Coat forms the new "outer barrier" of your paint. You don't have to wax it or seal it again. BUT....

Clear Coat, while adding shine, also protects your paint (which protects your primer which protects the body panels). You really don't have to clean, wax, or protect clear coat, it will last a fairly long time on it's own. But by cleaning it, protecting it, and keeping up with it you not only keep it looking great, you prolong it's life.

So adding Opti-Coat over your paint system is going to protect your paint system, no doubt. The better your car for the Opti-Coat, the better it is going to look.

You don't need to add a wax or sealant on top (and frankly most car wash soaps have wax in them) but you will still want to wash carefully, clay when necessary (which will be far less frequently) etc.

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

I've been reading up on it. You can apply wax, but it won't bond properly and will thus have a much shorter life.

Apparently, after using the optimum opti coat, you just have to use your normal car wash soap, or if you're in between washes, just a detail spray will suffice!

There is some suggestion that waxes and sealants won't bond as well, but I'm not 100% sold on that. Using Optimum Car Wax (which is a spray carnauba wax) will boost shine and increase the gloss slightly. You apply it like a quick detail spray after every few washes and it will look great.

However, a friend of mine did a test on half of his car (as mentioned in the previous post) and after almost 2 years of using nothing but damaging chemicals the water was still beading.

Originally Posted by rpomeroy

I'm wondering if after initial paint correction, application of Opticoat, would your wax work better if you apply a sealant, Glaze first, then wax?? Dylan or Todd. would you guys be able to weigh in on this?

While I don't want to dissent from any ranks, if a sealant is working properly (from my understanding of the way sealants bond to paint finishes) then applying a glaze on top of it is not going to offer any benefit. A glaze is an oil based product and for it to 'stick around' on top of a sealant, the sealant must haves some texture to it. Basically the oil glaze gets stuck in holes called 'interstices". Sealants are self-leveling and should be free of any interstices (microscopic holes) so I am not sure how well this works.

Even most carnauba waxes will have a hard time bonding into a layer of sealant, unless they are formulated to do so.

Opti-Coat is self-leveling (like a paint sealant) which is why most products are going to have a hard time 'taking hold' on top of them. A water based spray sealant or spray wax will layer and have some effect, although the effect will not be as beneficial as when applied on bare paint.

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

honestly, I think that the whole point of the opticoat is so that you don't have to wax anymore.

Think about it this way, wax doesn't add shine, it's for protection. Opticoat is a permanent PROTECTION.

Once you clean it up with a glaze or detail spray, it should be as shiny as you can get it.

This is assuming you've done the appropriate paint correction first though.

Agreed, although protecting the Opti-Coat (which is protecting your paint) is not a bad idea in theory.

Originally Posted by Stinkpickle

Think of Opti-Coat as a over the counter clear coat for your vehicle.

You need to make sure your paint is in perfect condition and flawless, or imperfections left after application will be there for the long run.

The only way to safely remove it should be with a compound. You should still be able to use a cheater product with it like a Glaze, and/or detail spray to help enhance the clay.

I don't see why there would be any harm using a wax or sealant on top of it, it just probably wont last nearly as long.



All IMO.

I would agree with all of the above.

Originally Posted by jrisebo

I see. I guess I was thinking if I put this on top of my clear coat, as another clear coat, what stops it from getting all beat up and dull like my clear coat if I dont wax or protect it? Seems a bit daft to cover a clear coat with clear coat. How does it still bead water after 2 years? seems amazing stuff!

It's like an extra 'clear coat' in the abstract way it works. That is it is permanent (or semi-permanent as not even paint will last forever).

Yes it can still get swirled up or contaminated just like paint, although it is far far far far far more resistant to both (swirls and contamination). It is also far more resistant to etchings causes by bugs, bird bombs, or acid rain, although not impervious to them.

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

Its much harder than clear coat. I've been stalking an optimum employee on the autopia forums and he posted that the optimum opticoat can get to a hardness level of 9 h. diamond is at 9 h. Yeah apparently there is a scale measuring hardness.... Hehe

On the Mohs Scale of Hardness, a Diamond is a ten. I believe that cured Opti-Coat is some where around an 8.5-9.

When globbed it on a window and let it cure (formed a super hard blob). Once hardened we couldn't scratch it with a key!

Originally Posted by jeffny09

But can i use polishes and waxes n sealants on it?

You can.

Originally Posted by cbass

I believe the answer is yes, but you are wasting your time and money by doing so.

Perhaps. Although it will still get some swirl marks so polishing it could be necessary depending on the level of finish you want. However it is hard, so polishing it is a chore. The good news is if you use careful washing techniques you probably won't have to polish it again.

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

Polishes clean paint. But here's the thing, before you apply opticoat, you're supposed to have it your car totally polished and swirl free. That way, you "lock in" your paint job.

Once you lock in your paint job, polishes won't be effective, because they won't be working on the paint anymore, they will be working on the Opticoat. You simply won't have to use polish and if you do, it will be wasted.

Similarly, you can use waxes and sealants, but since opticoat will be much better at protecting your car than either of those could ever be, that would also be a waste.

Any swirl marks or imperfections are going to be locked in so you do want the paint to be as perfect as possible before application (if you care about that sort of stuff).

Also you want to make sure the paint is perfectly CLEAN before applying. I have used some of the popular paint polishes on this forum and while they make paint look great, once you wipe them with alcohol (which is necessary to strip any oils before opti-coat) you may be very disappointed with the true (lack of) quality of finish.

Originally Posted by cbass

That doesn't sound right. As hard as diamond? What happens when you get into an accident or get a dent and have to repair a body panel? You have no way of sanding down the finish unless you find diamond sand paper?

Not really. Water is far less (hard) then rock, yet it is still abrasive enough to scratch a canyon out in Nevada.

A mosquito's stinger is easy to snap in half, yet can penetrate the 'hard' thick hide of an elephant.

Sanding, scratching, etc works by focusing energy onto specific point. The Opti-Coat, despite it's hardness (when applied in a blob) is still only a micron (at best) thick. You simply sand the surface to scuff it up (any painter would) and no worries.

While I am not recommending this, you can dull the surface of a diamond with 120 grit sandpaper. Good luck polishing it though.

Originally Posted by jeffny09

Lmao..its as hard as a diamond it also.protects u.from.dents!!!and accidents lol

It depends on the thickness too. Generally hard surfaces are brittle. If a diamond was 1 x 1 foot cube, it would be pretty impervious to breaking, but if enough pressure was added it would shatter (not dent).

However if the diamond was only a few micron's thick yet very long/wide and suspended above the surface, a small pebble aimed at the right spot would shatter it like a piece of glass.

Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07

If you read down it also says you can polish it off if there's a high spot. I don't know about you all, but none of my polishing equipment would touch diamond. Sounds like their company boy is exaggerating a little. Or a lot, more likely.

Give it a little tappy tap

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

maybe, but I could care less about the hardness of the product. I'm sold purely on what is shown in the OP.

Fixing a clear coat failure for over 2 years is a win in my book

Agreed. It is an amazing product.

Originally Posted by cbass

Test the "diamond" hardness finish. With it being that hard it should be pretty chip resistant?

Hard surfaces tend to chip easier.

Originally Posted by destroyerofu2

the last link had them fixing the swirl marks from "improper washing" so are you saying that the car wash was using Dimond rags to wash the car.

so there is your durability test. It works but is not dimond hard and is still able to get scraches

As mentioned above, yes it can get scratches (although far far far far fewer then most normal paints). It is also much more difficult to polish (anybody who has polished a newer VW, Audi, or Lamborghini can attest).

[CamaroDreams07]

I wouldn't know what to do with myself if I ever used this. I get anxiety just thinking about NOT worrying about washing my car so carefully and making sure it's sealed perfectly.

I guess I'm weird, but the "chase" of perfect paint is where the fun is to me.

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07

I wouldn't know what to do with myself if I ever used this. I get anxiety just thinking about NOT worrying about washing my car so carefully and making sure it's sealed perfectly.

I guess I'm weird, but the "chase" of perfect paint is where the fun is to me.

I know what you're talking about. I think it's because it's ingrained in our heads that we have to work super hard for perfect paint. We have huge multi-step paint correction kits and we spend hours on the weekends making our cars look good.

It's like we are in the stone age, and suddenly someone brought a computer to the caveman! It's a huge change, but I think I will like it once I get accustomed to the idea.

It reminds me of when an older gentleman I work under told me that he used to have to go and find a book in the library if he wanted information... now all we have to do is google it in seconds.

I believe the analogies speak for themselves. And once I get my paint corrected, you can bet that I will be buying some of this stuff and not worry about waxing again!

[CamaroDreams07]

Originally Posted by ihaveacamaro

I know what you're talking about. I think it's because it's ingrained in our heads that we have to work super hard for perfect paint. We have huge multi-step paint correction kits and we spend hours on the weekends making our cars look good.

It's like we are in the stone age, and suddenly someone brought a computer to the caveman! It's a huge change, but I think I will like it once I get accustomed to the idea.

It reminds me of when an older gentleman I work under told me that he used to have to go and find a book in the library if he wanted information... now all we have to do is google it in seconds.

I believe the analogies speak for themselves. And once I get my paint corrected, you can bet that I will be buying some of this stuff and not worry about waxing again!

You could certainly be right. Personally, it's a hobby for me. It's never been "work," and I've never felt like I had to "worry about waxing."

To make my own analogy, for me it's like somebody who loves building model airplanes realizing he could just go buy them at the store pre-assembled. It's not the point of if it's easier or less work, you're missing out on the part that made it enjoyable in the first place.

Again, that is JUST ME. Opti-Coat looks to be absolutely amazing and revolutionary and I would never hesitate to recommend it to anyone. I'm sure I'll be applying my fair share to customer cars, just not mine

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07

You could certainly be right. Personally, it's a hobby for me. It's never been "work," and I've never felt like I had to "worry about waxing."

To make my own analogy, for me it's like somebody who loves building model airplanes realizing he could just go buy them at the store pre-assembled. It's not the point of if it's easier or less work, you're missing out on the part that made it enjoyable in the first place.

Again, that is JUST ME. Opti-Coat looks to be absolutely amazing and revolutionary and I would never hesitate to recommend it to anyone. I'm sure I'll be applying my fair share to customer cars, just not mine

Oh yeah, getting up close and personal with your baby really makes you appreciate it more. I totally understand where you're coming from.

For me though, if I can have the exact same benefits from waxing, with no downsides, and have it permanent, that's the way to go.

I'll end up spending much more time in the driver's seat and enjoying my car that way!

[Rangore]

Originally Posted by Todd@Autopia

Several years ago I worked with a friend (the experiment was his idea) to tape half of his car and apply Opti-Coat (before it was officially released) to one half. Almost 2 years later, after washing the paint with caustic soaps, acidic soaps, acid, degreasers, and dawn, the water was still beading like new.

I like the sound of this. I don't have a PC...so I wonder if I took my car to a detailer to prep the car and apply the OptiCoat...would that be a good decision. The idea just came to mind when I read this thread, so I've yet to call a detailer to find out.

Here's the description I found on Autopia site about OptiCoat (I won't post pricing):

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is a protective clear resin coating, similar to the clear coat that already exists on your vehicle. Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 can be applied to all exterior surfaces. It is not recommended for glass since improper application can affect visibility. For other exterior surfaces, Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is a highly effective, transparent, permanent coating that keeps your vehicle looking like new.

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 can be applied to:

• painted surfaces
• headlights
• wheels
• plastic trim
• bumpers
• aluminum & chrome surfaces

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 was modified slightly from the original professional formula. (The pro version is still available under the Opti-Guard name.) Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 cures more slowly, which gives you more time to apply the coating correctly.
Because Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is permanent, the paint finish has to be properly prepared before applying it. Polish and clay the vehicle before using Opti-Coat 2.0.
Note: Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is not a nano-coating. While nano sealants are effective, they are temporary paint protection. Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 cross-links to form a permanent film that outlasts and outperforms nano coatings.


.

[WiSSDiver]

Makes me want to get the all of the bumper chips taken care of and apply a coat of this one and go. CD07, I agree with you and ihaveacamaro, especially the "work" part.

I love rubbing on my cars (makes my wife jealous..) and sharing that experience with my boys is invaluable. We washed and preped Buzz last sunday on Fathers days (seal, glaze and wax was already done) and sharing the passion of caring for the car is something they'll never forget.

All that said, I do like the idea of not having to worry as much about the durablity of the clear, especially on Buz (2010. The 68 is show car and only see's about 1000 miles a year.)

Thanks to all for all in this thread for the comments. Good Stuff!

[Todd@Autopia]

Originally Posted by Rangore

I like the sound of this. I don't have a PC...so I wonder if I took my car to a detailer to prep the car and apply the OptiCoat...would that be a good decision. The idea just came to mind when I read this thread, so I've yet to call a detailer to find out.

Here's the description I found on Autopia site about OptiCoat (I won't post pricing):

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is a protective clear resin coating, similar to the clear coat that already exists on your vehicle. Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 can be applied to all exterior surfaces. It is not recommended for glass since improper application can affect visibility. For other exterior surfaces, Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is a highly effective, transparent, permanent coating that keeps your vehicle looking like new.

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 can be applied to:

• painted surfaces
• headlights
• wheels
• plastic trim
• bumpers
• aluminum & chrome surfaces

Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 was modified slightly from the original professional formula. (The pro version is still available under the Opti-Guard name.) Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 cures more slowly, which gives you more time to apply the coating correctly.
Because Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is permanent, the paint finish has to be properly prepared before applying it. Polish and clay the vehicle before using Opti-Coat 2.0.
Note: Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 is not a nano-coating. While nano sealants are effective, they are temporary paint protection. Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 cross-links to form a permanent film that outlasts and outperforms nano coatings.


.

You have to BE VERY CAREFUL with the detailer you use. Most detailers do shoddy work and use polishes that have a lot of fillers in them. The result is your paint will look good for a few days or weeks, but then will look scared and swirled up.

I would recommend looking up Chad "Rasky" Raskovich. He is TOP NOTCH and has a LOT of experience with Opti-Coat, Opti-Guard, and Opti-Coat 2.0.
http://www.raskysautodetailing.com/

[nUcLeArEnVoY]

I'm with most of you guys, I love to wax and work hard to keep my paint pristine, throw the buffing towel over my shoulder, wipe the sweat off my forehead and just look at her.

But I won't deny the benefits of the few parts of my car that are opti-coated.

[Rangore]

Originally Posted by Todd@Autopia

You have to BE VERY CAREFUL with the detailer you use. Most detailers do shoddy work and use polishes that have a lot of fillers in them. The result is your paint will look good for a few days or weeks, but then will look scared and swirled up.

I would recommend looking up Chad "Rasky" Raskovich. He is TOP NOTCH and has a LOT of experience with Opti-Coat, Opti-Guard, and Opti-Coat 2.0.
http://www.raskysautodetailing.com/

Thanks for the advice

[The_Raging_Bull]

Having been a coating chemist for years I'm always afraid to apply a coating to a new finish like the Camaro SS which was not specifically designed for use with the finish by PPG.

There is no way of knowing how the car will react to UV exposure for years, wil it craze or go-forbid chalk? I'd kinda like to see carbon arc data which demos exposure to sunlight for years; as there are correlations for carbon arc units for such testing. With data like that you can make an informed decision. Having someone say that they've had it on 2 years says nothing about what it will look like in 5 or 10, or 20.

BUYER BEWARE if anything like that happens (crazing etc) it might be hard to impossible to fix w/o a repaint.

I've always done the hard thing, and use the Meguiar's clay bar. cleaning polish, polish, and topped off with Mothers Carnauba. I used this combination on my 3000GT VR4 for 20 years, and it still looks PERFECT . That said tread carefully, as you might end up screwing up a finish that could last twenty or thirty years.

[ihaveacamaro]

Originally Posted by lgvenable

Having been a coating chemist for years I'm always afraid to apply a coating to a new finish like the Camaro SS which was not specifically designed for use with the finish by PPG.

There is no way of knowing how the car will react to UV exposure for years, wil it craze or go-forbid chalk? I'd kinda like to see carbon arc data which demos exposure to sunlight for years; as there are correlations for carbon arc units for such testing. With data like that you can make an informed decision. Having someone say that they've had it on 2 years says nothing about what it will look like in 5 or 10, or 20.

BUYER BEWARE if anything like that happens (crazing etc) it might be hard to impossible to fix w/o a repaint.

I've always done the hard thing, and use the Meguiar's clay bar. cleaning polish, polish, and topped off with Mothers Carnauba. I used this combination on my 3000GT VR4 for 20 years, and it still looks PERFECT . That said tread carefully, as you might end up screwing up a finish that could last twenty or thirty years.

Optiguard, the professionals version of this product, has been out for over 6 years, and not a single bad thing has yet to be said.

Furthermore, I seriously doubt our paint finish will last ten years on its own, let alone 30. The new paint GM uses is extremely terrible, but what can you do with the new paint laws....