05-17-2011, 07:01 PM | #1 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
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Plasti Dip Application Tips
Plasti-Dip Application Tips (for Spray Cans):
1. Consider practicing on something unimportant first, just to get the hang of it. Something like a light switch cover, a piece of scrap wood, or something lying around in your garage. 2. Clean whatever part you are coating very thoroughly – Start with soap & water, but then use acetone, paint thinner, or nail polish remover to make sure you get all of the finger grease & etc. off of it… 3. If you’re not planning on removing the plasti-dip ever, consider sanding the part before coating it. While not necessary, sanding the part will produce better results… 4. Your first few coats should be very light. You need to establish a base. Start with a very, very light spray over the part, so thin you can still see the original color under it. Wait about 15 minutes then do another light coat, but this time spray thick enough you can’t see the base color anymore. 5. In your next few coats start laying it down thicker and thicker. Once you have a solid base built up, you can & should lay it on pretty thick – obviously you don’t want it to run, but you want it on thick enough it looks glossy. 6. Shake the can a lot, and take breaks while spraying so you don’t get lazy and hold it one spot too long and create drips. 7. Don’t try to spray too large of an area at one time – the nozzle will start to clog, resulting in drips and uneven spraying. If you’re going to do a large area, have multiple cans you can switch between so no one can is being used longer than 1-2 minutes. 8. Allow 30-40 minutes between coats after your first two coats 9. Be sure to spray it from multiple angles to get full coverage – I suggest propping the part up, and then making sure you can walk around it so you can hit it from every angle. If you don’t get full & even coverage, some areas of it make look darker or glossier than other areas. 10. The closer you are, the smoother the texture. The further away you hold the can, the more textured it looks. Spray accordingly, but be forewarned that if you spray too far away it will be really annoying to clean… 11. Let it dry for several days before trying to wash or clean it – it takes a little longer to fully cure and will be a little sticky or tacky to the touch in the meantime. If possible, I’d wait at least 24-48 hours before installing the part on your car to ensure it doesn’t chip prematurely. 12. Keep the can upright when spraying, and be sure to clean out the nozzle by spraying it upside down when done. It is easy for it to clog, which will produce poor results. 13. Temperature – like normal spray paint, avoid extreme temperatures such as it being really cold, really humid, or really hot. This will affect drying time and may also prevent it from curing properly. 14. Over-spray – now this is the really awesome thing about Plasti-dip – you don’t really have to worry about over-spray that much…if you happen to overspray you should be able to peel it off. 15. You can refresh your plasti-dipped items if they start to wear, fade or chip – after about a year my grille needed a few touch ups, so I just cleaned it and re-sprayed it from scratch, starting with a few light coats and then building it up, just like I originally did, and the results were stellar, making it look brand-new again. 16. Always buy a few extra cans – since you spray it on pretty thick, you go through it pretty quickly. I buy my Plasti-Dip through Amazon, but you can buy it at local home improvement stores like Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware too… 17. Take the tape off while the plasti-dip is still wet. AKA finish your last coat and then immediately peel the tape off. This will prevent the plasti-dip from peeling off when you take the tape off an hour or so later. Plasti-Dip Removal Tips: Equally as important as applying it, is how to remove it. Personally I haven’t been too successful in this area, but here are the most common ways to remove it: 1. Pressure washer – blast it off 2. Mineral Spirits or Acetone - disintegrate it 3. Sandpaper – sand it off 4. Fingers Uses for Plasti-Dip on Cars You can use Plasti-Dip virutally anywhere except areas that get very hot such as the engine bay or around the brakes & wheels. 1. Black-out Grilles – a cheap project that can really transform the look of your car… 2. Black-out Emblems – de-chrome those ugly badges by spraying them with Plasti-Dip for a more stealth look. You can even do this with the emblem still attached to the car! Check out this thread on G35NYC.com for pointers on this 3. Black-out window or chrome trim – much like the emblems, your overspray will peel right off the windows of your car and/or car paint, so you can use this to pretty easily cover your window trim. 4. Interior Trim – I’ve seen several people Plasti-Dip interior trim pieces to match their OEM trim – the black textured look matches perfectly with a lot of common interior materials, making it seem as if it came that way from the factory 5. Wheels – I’ve seen it done, and it does work. Though you may have to touch them up after 6 months or so. If you’re considering having your wheels powdercoated black, you could try Plasti-Dipping them to see how they look, and if you don’t like it you could always peel or pressure wash off the Plasti-Dip. 6. Rear Valence – this one is iffy – the heat from your exhaust may eventually melt off the Plasti-Dip, so it really depends on how much power your car puts out and if you still have catalytic converters or not, but for many applications you’ll be fine. Last edited by The Stig; 08-08-2011 at 09:31 AM. |
05-17-2011, 07:32 PM | #2 |
Its all about the U
Drives: 2010 SGM Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Miami
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spent about 3 hours painting the bezels over and over because I didnt have an awesome guideline like the one above (thanks OP)
Plasti Dip is pretty F*ng awesome.. just spray, if you mess up just peal, cant ask for anything better. The finish on the bezels look superb, its like a satin almost flat black. Ill post pics of the bezels later. Thanks again for the detailed guideline Regarding your tips on how to remove: I just used my hands no matter how wet or dry the object is you just literally peal it off and viola its back to normal, no marks or stains.
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05-17-2011, 07:37 PM | #3 |
Texas Camaros
Drives: 2011 Synergy Green 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2010
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Excellant write up. Thank you..
one question, Which thread on G35NYC?
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05-17-2011, 08:47 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
we did the front lower bumper thing! and removed it! we did the bezels! AMAZING! |
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05-17-2011, 08:59 PM | #5 |
¡ʇuɐıןןıɹq
Drives: 2011 Camaro IOM 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Decatur, Illinois
Posts: 2,600
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Done my taillight bezels, rear bowtie and the rims. Looks amazing. Just need some better weather to get some pix.
Great tips for a beginner! |
05-17-2011, 09:16 PM | #6 |
Drives: 2016 Challenger Hellcat, 2018 ZL1LE Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Northern NJ
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i've seen white plasti dip spray on amazon. does white pllasti dip spray really exist. i've been to my local hardware store a bunch of times and asked them about it and they always tell me that they've never heard about white plasti dip spray.
im afraid to buy it from amazon and not get white. anyone know if white really exists? |
05-17-2011, 09:25 PM | #7 |
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yes go to the plastic dip website they have white , clear , black , yellow , red , blue
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05-17-2011, 09:27 PM | #8 |
Drives: 2016 Challenger Hellcat, 2018 ZL1LE Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 3,003
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05-17-2011, 09:42 PM | #9 | |
knows 2 facts about ducks
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Quote:
However, in my nonprofessional opinion: stay away from the clear. It is not a glossy clear as you would think. But rather a flat dull clear coat. On top of it not being glossy it is very hard to apply, doing it wrong will leave bumps and blisters in the plastic. |
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05-17-2011, 09:42 PM | #10 |
Banned
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idunno? even then dipping would be easy or u can transfer it to a spray?
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05-17-2011, 09:43 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2016 Challenger Hellcat, 2018 ZL1LE Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 3,003
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ohhhh, you can get the white in spray form ??!?!?!?!??!?! niiiiiiice
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05-17-2011, 09:46 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Elk Grove California
Posts: 310
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When you repaired that area in the from (#15) did you remove all of the old plasti dip or did you just go over the top?
Great writeup |
05-18-2011, 08:54 AM | #13 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
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You need to remove all of the old plasti dip. Otherwise you will get a layering effect. Again its not hard to remove either so not a big deal to take a bit off.
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05-18-2011, 09:02 AM | #14 |
H-Town Camaro Club
Drives: 2010 Black Camaro 2LT RS M6 Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Katy, TX
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I also used Plasti dip on my tailight bezzels, they turned out great.
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