Dyno Results / Clutch Replacement

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by DrkPhx

That's a good point. On stock heads I didn't pick up much hp when running 100 octane because it was still timing limited. I was able to pick up a little more when I switched to TFS heads, but nothing like when I added a flex fuel sensor and switched to a higher % of ethanol.



How much power can they handle and what's the driveability like compared to stock?

They have a very OEM feel to them, Once properly broken in they will handle far past what they are rated for, but like any clutch abuse can destroy it.

Ted.

[370zyzfr1]

Originally Posted by RobZL1

I don't quite understand the 50hp gain comment/question. If stock M6 ZL1's dyno in the 500 range (STD), then Ted's +125 kit would be in the 625 range (STD). AT 636-642, my setup is only 10-15 more than that, not 50.

Most dyno at the 480ish mark with manuals. Which is why typically the 125
Package is supposed to get to 600. That’s without a cam.

[RobZL1]

Originally Posted by 370zyzfr1

Most dyno at the 480ish mark with manuals. Which is why typically the 125
Package is supposed to get to 600. That’s without a cam.

I don't think that's an accurate statement. Here is list of every M6 stock dyno in the dyno thread. If you kick out the highest and the lowest as outliers, then all 12 remaining fall between 490 and 520. That's 575-610 at the crank if you assume 15% loss on the M6. The average rwhp of those 12 is 507 and the median is 509. This translates to about 597 at the crank (again with 15% loss assumed). Based on these numbers, either they are a little strong from GM on average, or the drivetrain loss is more like 12-13% for a 5th gen M6 ZL1. (Note: I realize some are SAE and some are STD, but at these power levels, the difference will be about 10 rwhp, so that's not a huge deal in my book. Plus, if you look at only SAE Dynojet data, the average is still 507.)

M6:
494 ???, Mustang
516 SAE, Dynojet
495 SAE, Dynojet
521 ???, ???
505 ???, ???
494 STD, Dynojet
491 SAE, Dynojet
514 SAE, Dynojet
515 ???, ???
517 SAE, Dynojet
511 SAE, Dynojet
486 STD, Dynojet
521 ???, Dynolog
507 ???, ???

And another comparison point regarding the 50 hp increase and the 600rwhp number you are talking about- here's Candr3535's car from Jannetty. Just like mine except it also has Ted's rough idle cam package, a big gulp, and a 90mm TB:

695 RWHP / 660 RWTQ @ 13.5 PSI
Dyna-Tech Headers Ceramic Coated w/Super Flo Cats, JRE Custom Rough Idle Racing Cam Package and 125 RWHP Pulley Kit w/ 28% pulley, Custom Tune by Ted, ID850 injectors, JMS Fuel Booster, NGK Plugs, MSD Plug Wires, Roto-Fab CAI, Roto-Fab Big Gulp, Elite Catch Can, Mild to Wild, 90mm VMaxx Ported Throttle Body, Skip Shift Elim., D3 Coolant Resevoir, Separated Clutch Resevoir, and Fuzzy Red Dice..

[RobZL1]

Follow up on the Monster LT1-S Triple Disk Organic:

I've had this installed for about 1500 miles now. So far, I think it's great! Here are my observations thus far:

1) The engagement point is closer to the floor than stock. Stock was pretty close to the top of the travel, and this is more like 1/3 or 1/2 down from the top. I'm assuming this is due to the extra plates in there compared to stock, all shoved into the same space that the twin disk used to occupy. It started out engaging just off the floor after install, and got better very quickly.

2) After a couple weeks, LSXPERTS bled it again for me, and that brought the engagement up slightly higher- must have had a few bubbles in there still.

3) The pedal feel is just like stock (makes sense due to the fact that it is heavily based on the OEM C7 clutch).

4) There is no noise at idle. It is just as quiet as stock.

5) There is minor noise below 1500 rpm under light load. Sounds like the old single-mass flywheel box-of-rocks noise at idle that some of you may have experienced on other platforms. This is due to the elimination of the dual mass flywheel and the fact that the clutch disks are solidly mounted to the splined hubs (no spring damping system). Below 1500 rpm, you get some gear rattle as a result. Above that, it's all good. I confirmed this is normal with Steve A. at Monster, and his advice is exactly what I was already doing... keep it above 1500.

6) There is also noise as the car warms up. It's related to the NVH described in #5, but it just has a different character when cold. Instead of the box-of-rocks rattle below 1500 that goes away, you get some gear noises at all RPM. (Well, at all RPM you would see while gently warming up the car, so basically <= 2500.) While cold, you get no rattle below 1500 at all, but you do get a lot of gear noise. It goes away after 5-6 minutes every time, and then turns into the noise noted in #5. I attribute this to the changing viscosity of the transmission fluid as it warms.

7) So far, I detect ZERO slip. I'll data log it at some point, and also put it on the dyno again to verify. BUT- on the few traction-friendly warm afternoons we've had, I didn't detect any slip.

All-in-all, I'm very pleased with this purchase so far. For the money, it's a great deal in my mind, compared to the other more expensive options out there. Granted I haven't tried the other options, but I'm sure as heck not going to spend that kind of coin to find out, either. LOL!

Once I get it back on a dyno (probably this month), I'll report back with how much torque I'm REALLY making.