[Juiced1]

You can get a wide difference in power between different dynos and also the tune can play a big part of the power differences you see. We commonly see around 675-700rwhp with a 2650 and 103 set up (generally around 13-15psi). A cam and a pulley usually spins it to around 800 and meth can push them around 850-900 on our dyno (pushing more like 16-18 psi). With enough meth, 93 and the right pulley combination 1000rwhp isn't out of the realm with good weather.



Guys who aren't making power numbers similar to this could have a soft tune. If you have HP tuners and can send your file over we'll take a look at it for no charge.

[IneedAZ]

Originally Posted by Juiced1

Guys who aren't making power numbers similar to this could have a soft tune. If you have HP tuners and can send your file over we'll take a look at it for no charge.

That is nice you are offering that! Out of curiousity, do use SAE or STD correction ?

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Juiced1

You can get a wide difference in power between different dynos and also the tune can play a big part of the power differences you see. We commonly see around 675-700rwhp with a 2650 and 103 set up (generally around 13-15psi). A cam and a pulley usually spins it to around 800 and meth can push them around 850-900 on our dyno (pushing more like 16-18 psi). With enough meth, 93 and the right pulley combination 1000rwhp isn't out of the realm with good weather.



Guys who aren't making power numbers similar to this could have a soft tune. If you have HP tuners and can send your file over we'll take a look at it for no charge.

WOW!!! Frickin' AWESOME!!!

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by radz28

In my experience, I was getting about 14-psi during Summer months. My car seems to be making around 700-RWHP, so (if that's about right) it would seem I'm probably pretty close to Magnuson's Z06 numbers. I will clearly state I don't have dyno' numbers for my car - I'm using air flow data to come to that hypothesis. I can also say, that the 14-15-pounds I was seeing was with ambient air around 80-90* (IAT2s were around up to 110* or so, and it was smoky as Hell, so air quality was terrible). With nothing more than lower air temperature (and better air quality), I was seeing around 3-pounds more, with temperatures in the low-60s. All of that to say that temperature could play a role in boost. Magnuson's shop is, if I'm not mistaken, near sea level, and ambient temperatures around there average something like 70*. If they're dyno'ing around that temperature and air quality, and you go to Arizona (for example), you aren't likely going to get the same conditions, and might see lower boost. It seems, to me, Magnuson's boost claims, for a stock LT4, on a 90mm pulley, line-up pretty well, at sea level, around 80*. If you have a stock intake/exhaust-car, that's probably about what you'll see in good DA. My car has a BG and LT5-TB, so I'm seeing a pound or two more than 14, and with cooler temperatures, a few more than that. It isn't clogged cats' (yet), because my car has a thousand miles and my car wasn't hot during those runs. Anyways - all of that to say that if you run the car, as they list it (bone stock), you'll likely see around 14-pounds near sea level around 80*. Because hardly anyone won't upgrade a blower without intake and LTs, you're probably not going to see 14-pounds.

Additionally - with Magnuson's car, that 730-RWHP was at the fueling limit, and Mike ran it out to like 7000-RPMs. That car was making around 700 to the tires, right around the OEM fuel cut-off, which is about 6600.

I'm not sure what you're getting your information from, but I'm not sure how right or wrong it is. There's another video, from a Nickey-tuner, that had a ZL1 with a BG, and LTs, and was making about 740 to the tires. Their pulley sizes were a little different, but I think they were saying they were around 16-psi and they were right on the fueling limit (the rest of the car was stock). I'd be willing to bet you could easily make that kind of power with your mods', just using the meth for cooling, rather than fueling (and more if you used it for fueling). If you run a stock lower and the 90mm upper, I believe you can make upwards of 730-750 pretty easy with those mods. Dyno-tuning will allow to car to make the power that blower is trying to make. If you don't get the VVE and MAF right, the car will fight itself. I'm not sure where you're seeing the sub-700 numbers, but it'd be interesting to see the data and the builds.

I also think that Magnuson's slightly de-tuned these blowers (at least mine) a bit. I'm not suggesting this is a wide spread-thing, or it was just mine, but it was pretty surprising, in a good way. There's a commonality that I found with mine that was very similar to what I found with my OEM-blower... Boost isn't everything...

Nickey does his numbers in STD hence the higher numbers... watch his video again He’s also aggressive on his tune, why push the fueling system into dangerous territory just to gain 10-20hp.

[Camaro1973]

Originally Posted by Markoz28

It’s crazy how just adding a cam to your current build almost guarantees 100whp gain.

775-800rwhp on the Andrew package from CSP.

[EDFHOBBIES]

Dynos all read different but if there calibrated they shouldn't be that much different. I remember when one of the 1st 2016 yellow camaro SS was paraded in October of 15 and it stopped at ADM's in Dallas then in Houston they slapped it on the Dyno at ADM's and it was 413 everyone said happy dyno and made almost identical numbers in HTown. I'm sure with 400 hp vs 700 the number will be greater apart since the as the HP number increase so will the variance.

The 2650 might be off for 1 reason!

False advertising? go back and listen to the #2 video carefully and you will see that Mike says he has stage 2 porting and is very vague as he slips up like sleepy Joe..

Look at the 1 min 30 mark. it's also mentioned in another video or this 1 later on i think in #3.(maybe)



so all that testing is not on a stock blower where he breaks out the efficiency data vs (edelbrock's another thread), the maggi 2300, and the oem blower and 730 RWHP? or does every blower come with stage 2 porting? If that's the case and it comes w stage 2 porting I'm pretty offended by him and the other 3 individuals who jumped on my build told me that there blower is the best, doesn't need port (lol now there messing with port), you can't compare ported with a non ported blower so I took it upon myself and proved that the eforce is more efficient than the maggi if ported. All along I was beat down told I was crazy blah blah. And every argument I was winning i had to be told we have the fastest cars and when I posted a faster car there was an excuse or it was a 1x pass blah blah..

In video 3 of the series from the link I posted you will see he talks about the highest temps come from cruising and sitting still because the IAT3 or manifold temp sensor gets least amount of air flow in these situations.. air flow equals lower temps. if this is a stage 2 porting over edelbrock well hell, no wonder it has lower iats... All a long it was turned into a brick thickness arguments but in reality its flow and possibly a sensor location. Its all in the placement in the sensor we all know edelbrock's 1st blower the LS2300 was a big POS as Fran says in one of the RPM videos but latter on Fran praises the Edelbrock 2300 and 2650 for Lt1/Lt4 stuff. Fran with RPM has been killing it with the edelbrock where CSP seems to have moved towards maggi..

theoretically..

2650 on an otherwise stock car should make 730 rwhp on a dyno jet

cam will add power
headers will add power
103mm or the 95mm kit wil add a little
the cold air intake should add some as well
A low side or boosta with the cam lobe should be all you need to do 850 on 93 octane.

All of these mods should add roughly 100 to 120 hp or an 850 number on the dyno unless the a non ported stage 2 blower is 680 to 690 and that's what people get instead of a STAGE 2 PORTING just one hypothesis.

[radz28]

OMG. The Stage 2 porting is how all the 2650s leave to my understanding. He doesn't slip up. For Christ sake. You just can't let it go, can you...

Look: Here's my Stage 2 ported blower... OMG! See all those little scratchy bits?! I must have a ringer 2650!!!

[Juiced1]

Originally Posted by IneedAZ

That is nice you are offering that! Out of curiousity, do use SAE or STD correction ?

SAE and on ZL1s we usually do 6h gear pulls instead of 7th like a lot of other shops do. When we pull them in 7th we usually get another 50hp being the preferred 1:1 ratio. 7th gear pulls will pass 200mph and it wigs out the dyno. It's safer on the car too but at some customers request we'll give it a shot and try to shut it down early to pull a number.

[Markoz28]

Originally Posted by Juiced1

SAE and on ZL1s we usually do 6h gear pulls instead of 7th like a lot of other shops do. When we pull them in 7th we usually get another 50hp being the preferred 1:1 ratio. 7th gear pulls will pass 200mph and it wigs out the dyno. It's safer on the car too but at some customers request we'll give it a shot and try to shut it down early to pull a number.

I’ve heard of 3 other great shops doing pulls in 6th specifically because of what youve stated.

[Z OH 6]

Originally Posted by Markoz28

I’ve heard of 3 other great shops doing pulls in 6th specifically because of what youve stated.

I've always heard a alot of shops dont like to exceed 200mph on the dyno so they will dyno the car in a gear lower to prevent it. My Hellcat was like that, it still made 892whp.

[IneedAZ]

Originally Posted by Juiced1

SAE and on ZL1s we usually do 6h gear pulls instead of 7th like a lot of other shops do. When we pull them in 7th we usually get another 50hp being the preferred 1:1 ratio. 7th gear pulls will pass 200mph and it wigs out the dyno. It's safer on the car too but at some customers request we'll give it a shot and try to shut it down early to pull a number.

Interesting!! I should ask what gear mine was done at.