All you stalled A6 guys! Please post your input!!!

[Wacker]

Originally Posted by BowlingSS

I read most of this thread. I am thinking of getting a stall for my 2011 A6. I had a 3500 stall on my 01 D/D and I loved it. It make it more fun to drive IMO.

I just wished I could replace it myself in my garage.

My advice to anyone is to get one. You will not regret it. You will need to get a tune or at least I had to tune mine on the 2001 Camaro.

Good luck.

Bill

Well I've pulled my tranny three times now and have not had any major issues. It is a big/heavy tranny, but the process is still the same. The toughest part was removing the rorque converter bolts.

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Wacker

I've gained .5 with a 3500 stall unlocked. I still see too low of an RPM after shift completion so the next converter will be a looser 4000 stall. My goal is to see no more than a 1000 RPM drop after the shift. My tuning strategy with a custom converter will have the 4K converter feeling more like a 2500K for part throttle driving. Currently my 3500K feels really nice with the tune I'm running. The converter is built with special friction material designed for continuous slip (just like stock) so I apply it with a min psi value at 10MPH while managing the slip with desired slip tables. I don't fully lock it until 35MPH which makes for great drivability and pretty darn good fuel economy for my stall.

It seems that will be about the range you need to go. My 3800 and my brother's 4000 were pretty much the same shift extension, and we had like an 800 RPM drop. It think it was the sweet-spot for LS1 - at least out cars. It was easy enough to drive around town on 3.23s. I didn't have the lock-up changed much though. I think the general lock-up MPH was dropped about three MPH and that was about it. I was always careful, though, to feel for it, because this converter wasn't designed for continuous slip. I had all of the other little tranny tuning bits done, too, and NO TM. I didn't know about the continuous slip of the newer trannys though - thanks for the info'

Originally Posted by BowlingSS

I read most of this thread. I am thinking of getting a stall for my 2011 A6. I had a 3500 stall on my 01 D/D and I loved it. It make it more fun to drive IMO.

I just wished I could replace it myself in my garage.

My advice to anyone is to get one. You will not regret it. You will need to get a tune or at least I had to tune mine on the 2001 Camaro.

Good luck.

Bill

I replaced two converters (4th Gens.) in my garage on jack stands. Neither was fun, lol. I won't be doing that for a while!

Originally Posted by Wacker

Well I've pulled my tranny three times now and have not had any major issues. It is a big/heavy tranny, but the process is still the same. The toughest part was removing the rorque converter bolts.

A tranny jack or adapter goes a long ways, IMO. I think the adapter goes for about $50, no? Like you said, though, it's pretty straight forward - just a big job.

[Wacker]

I did have a lift and tranny jack Those two go a long way...

[radz28]

Originally Posted by Wacker

I did have a lift and tranny jack Those two go a long way...

H3LL YEAH, THEY DO, but it's still a major job

[godfathercrc]

Originally Posted by Supercharged SS

Hey wacker, are you saying that it's not a gd idea to do a converter on a stock 6l80? I've also been told, buy a great tuner, that the converter us plug and play and nothing in my tune needs to be touched. My converter should be here any day and now you got me thinking.

Iam thinking of buying that same covertor I dont want to spend more on a tune .I have $ 2000.00 in tunes now tired of paying for tunes every mod I get

[06nine]

I don't agree with all of the posters who swear by their converters/tunes. My car was quicker with the stock converter than with the FTI 2800 which has been tuned and retuned by 2 different tuners! Still clunks at times when down shifting and although seems better off of the line, the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are no where as quick or as firm. BTY, have all of you been able to retain the throttle blip when down shifting using the paddles? I've been told that goes away once you remove the stock converter.

[SC2150]

What part of FL are you in? Contact Phil of Tampa Tuning and he can optimize the trans tune for the converter.

I have sold & installed hundreds of FTI's over the years and use them exclusively in our LS powered drag cars and have also used most other big names in the past (as we have multiple Divisonal, National, and World championships in several classes both NHRA & IHRA) and have never had less than a 4-5 tenths improvement over stock in the 1/4 mile....and most we have 5-7 tenths improvement so something has to be wrong. We have also had zero failures and that is with more abuse than 90% of most converter cars.

PM me if you want help to determine whats wrong.....thats the only thing it could be.

[Sator14]

YANK 3600...WOW

[Wacker]

Originally Posted by 06nine

I don't agree with all of the posters who swear by their converters/tunes. My car was quicker with the stock converter than with the FTI 2800 which has been tuned and retuned by 2 different tuners! Still clunks at times when down shifting and although seems better off of the line, the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts are no where as quick or as firm. BTY, have all of you been able to retain the throttle blip when down shifting using the paddles? I've been told that goes away once you remove the stock converter.

Bad tune...

[mlgreen]

Im a newb when it comes to converters. I notice all the people getting higher than stock stall converters have more than bolt ons. Would a say a 2800 to 3000 stall converter be worth it for a SS with full bolt ons? Would it still drive like stock without having that "slipping" feeling with stop and go traffic?

[SC2150]

Originally Posted by mlgreen

Im a newb when it comes to converters. I notice all the people getting higher than stock stall converters have more than bolt ons. Would a say a 2800 to 3000 stall converter be worth it for a SS with full bolt ons? Would it still drive like stock without having that "slipping" feeling with stop and go traffic?

Todays lock-up stall converters are not like the loose race converters of the past. If properly built/configured you will hardley notice (most wives don't) a 3600 stall FTI until you put your foot in it, and then it is a completely different beast. One of the best mods period for improved acceleration hands down with or without ANY other mods.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by mlgreen

Im a newb when it comes to converters. I notice all the people getting higher than stock stall converters have more than bolt ons. Would a say a 2800 to 3000 stall converter be worth it for a SS with full bolt ons? Would it still drive like stock without having that "slipping" feeling with stop and go traffic?

One of the benefits of our Protorque converters is they are Seemless but also worth 1/2 second at the track Providing you have Tires that can handle the Extra Torque Multiplication.

Lose converter can give you a feeling of driving through the Mud around town if not built properly for your specific application.

Don't Purchase converters base on advertised Stall Speed because it can vary up to 1000 RPM based on Input torque.

Each Converter Must Be Built for your specific Power Level.

Ted.

[Wacker]

Around 2800-3200 stall is your best bet for street driving. 3600 is getting up there unless you do it after running a 3200. From stock to 3600 is very noticable. I throw the stocker in every once in a while so I can remember how tight it is. I run a test mule 4500 now (very loose compared to stock) but I apply the clutch from second on to increase drivability. The converter is built to do this so don't do it with anyone elses or you'll burn it up. The next generation will be a modified version of mine with two clutch surfaces instead of one. I'm currently locking the converter (very slowly) after the third gear shift. I flatten the RPM rise at peak HP (using the apply ramp) maximizing delivered power. Too fast of an apply and you drag the RPM down (slower car). Too slow of an apply and you overshoot peak power (slower car). NO ONE has done as much converter testing with this car than me. I've had seven different converter mods from mild to wild and logged thousands of hours worth of data. There are a couple really good converter builders out there who will custom design for your power level. Properly tuned the car WILL be faster.

[BowlingSS]

You will need a good tune to get the most out of it. I am saving for this mod and will be my next big mod. It is not cheap. My 4th Gen had a 3600 stall in it and was a blast to drive. My 5th Gen is also my D/D.

Bill