Engine break in methods

[newtocamaro]

Correct me if I'm wrong but i was told that the engines in modern cars already come broken in. It's the transimission brakes and whole bunch of other small things that you are braking in. It is true that computer in your car learns how you drive but a simple battery disconnect should reset it.

[Silverghost]

I agree with this break in proceedure, dropped a 408 in a friends car and when he told me the builder recomended to break it in that he throw it on a dyno and run it like a raped ape I didn't beleive him. Then he showed me the written instructions which came with the motor. He hit 70,000 miles recently while spraying the motor from the begining, not a single problem yet.

[aircooled]

Back in the LT1 and LT2 days I watched them assemble and do random tests on one right off the line water, wires and some LP gas in place of the air cleaner. I was talking to the guy while he was hookin it up and touched it off, he then twisted the throttle wound it up to bout 6,000 grand (that was the limit of the LP) and turned and talked for about 5 minutes, flipped the switch to shut it down unhooked it and sent it on down the line as a good one. If it was going in a Vette it was externally balanced so it got fire up a few more times to get the balance right, and all the vette motors at that time were externally balanced so they all were ran at the assembly plant.

[Deeboe]

Originally Posted by Bentley78

I'll break in 50/50. Running it good and cruising around stop and go.

thats what im doing. no complaints

[ahart04]

I can't believe some of you are dismissing that information so quickly!? Is it SO hard to believe that giant corporations may 'say' something and it not be full truth?! Remember our government sat on the Polio CURE for for 6 years. While people died. Just so it could be a $LUCRATIVE$ launch. Money drives the world. Engines are so advanced these days, motor oil companies may not be able to make any money unless certain things that 'just happen', happen. But here's what I think: Someone above stated that cars also have transmissions and other parts to break in. That being said, I still am skeptical of MotoMan's engine break in method. But seriously guys, his method will seat your piston rings 10x better than the manual's method will. I guess I will just find a middle ground...

[coolman]

Originally Posted by ahart04

I can't believe some of you are dismissing that information so quickly!? Is it SO hard to believe that giant corporations may 'say' something and it not be full truth?! Remember our government sat on the Polio CURE for for 6 years. While people died. Just so it could be a $LUCRATIVE$ launch. Money drives the world. Engines are so advanced these days, motor oil companies may not be able to make any money unless certain things that 'just happen', happen. But here's what I think: Someone above stated that cars also have transmissions and other parts to break in. That being said, I still am skeptical of MotoMan's engine break in method. But seriously guys, his method will seat your piston rings 10x better than the manual's method will. I guess I will just find a middle ground...

I'm with you bro. I break in every motor I build like that. I never bought I new car and ***** footed it . And, I've had very little motor problems over the years.

[CamaroSpike23]

Originally Posted by Gentry78

burnout off the dealer lot

what would give you that idea?

[CatiaJockey]

When is someone going to post solid evidence that their chosen method is better than the method that the manual dictates? Show me where compression is higher in the cylinder or that the bearings run with less friction and still maintain the clearance required. Show me where longevity is maintained.... There is no cover up here, the manufacture posts the best available method for yours and their benefit. What are you going to do when the unimaginable happens like you're wrapped up to 7 grand in second gear and the tranny lets loose. The OBD has a record of the event and the service manager says hmmm.... 150 miles and already red lining this engine... what to do, what to do.... why would you put yourself in this position?

[SoloSK71]

Three cars that dyno and butt-dyno better than stock using this break in method.

Take a look at the discussion, he is not telling you to "wind it up to 7k" to break in. Three sets of three dyno runs. 60% of max throttle, 80% of max throttle, 100% of max throttle. This is not a no load clutch dump.

oh, and another small note, those of us breaking in engines like this, we are not looking for longevity. We are looking for performance.

- SK

[coolman]

Originally Posted by SoloSK71

Three cars that dyno and butt-dyno better than stock using this break in method.



oh, and another small note, those of us breaking in engines like this, we are not looking for longevity. We are looking for performance.

- SK

From what I've seen in the years I've been doing it, you get both.

[69Firebird]

I picked mine up yesterday and it has been impossible to keep my foot out of the gas.
I've been keeping it below 4000 RPM, but I still like giving it a bit of juice from time to time. For the most part I just try and cruise around. I'll take it pretty easy till 500 or so then I'll let it wind out a bit more.

[SoloSK71]

Originally Posted by coolman

From what I've seen in the years I've been doing it, you get both.

While true, if I had a to shoose between a standard performing engine with longevity and a 50,000 mile engine with performance I would choose performance.

I try not to trumpet that we get just as much longevity as the "standard break in" as that seems to really miff people.

- SK

[Forrest]

So....I'm dropping a new engine in my 74' Vette, and came across this handy dandy little guide. Now, given its for a different engine, so the oil and such will be different, but I think its pretty handy. Also, IGNORE ALL DRILLING. You're engine and ignition timing is already set, please just look at the throttle break ins and hours. STARTS AT PAGE 3 ON THE BOTTOM http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/_r...ine_Deluxe.pdf

Start-up and Break-in Procedures
1. After installing the engine, ensure the crankcase has been filled with 20w50 racing motor oil (non-synthetic)
to the recommended oil fill level on the dipstick. Also check and fill as required any other necessary fluids
such as coolant, power steering fluid, etc.
2. The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. To prime
the engine, first remove the distributor to allow access to the oil pump drive shaft. Note the position of the
distributor before removal. Install the oil priming tool, GM part number 12368084. Using a 1/2" dill motor,
rotate the engine oil priming tool clockwise for three minutes. While you are priming the engine, have someone
else rotate the crankshaft clockwise to supply oil throughout the engine and to all the bearing surfaces
before the engine is initially started. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine
for the first time. Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time. Reinstall the distributor in the
same orientation as it was removed.
After the engine has been installed in the vehicle, recheck the oil level and add oil as required. It is also good
practice to always recheck the ignition timing after removal and reinstallation of the distributor. See step 4 or
engine specifications for the proper timing information.
3. Safety first. If the vehicle is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked and
the car cannot fall into gear. Verify everything is installed properly and nothing was missed.
4. Start the engine and adjust the initial timing. Set the ignition timing to 15° before top dead center (BTDC) and
the engine idle to 950 RPM (ZZ572/620) or 1200 RPM (ZZ572/720R) with a timing light and the vacuum disconnected
and plugged. Rotate the distributor counterclockwise to advance the timing. Rotate the distributor
clockwise to retard the timing. Leave the vacuum advance disconnected.
5. When possible, you should always allow the engine to warm up prior to driving. It is a good practice to allow
the oil sump and water temperature to reach 180°F before towing heavy loads or performing hard acceleration
runs.
6. Once the engine is warm, set the total advance timing to 36° at 4000 RPM.
7. The engine should be driven at varying loads and conditions for the first 30 miles or one hour without wide
open throttle (WOT) or sustained high RPM accelerations.
8. Run five or six medium throttle (50%) accelerations to about 5000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in gear.
9. Run two or three hard throttle (WOT 100%) accelerations to about 5000 RPM and back to idle (0% throttle) in
gear.
10. Change the oil and filter. Replace with 20w50 racing motor oil (non synthetic) and a PF35L AC Delco oil filter.
Inspect the oil and the oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine is functioning properly.
11. Drive the next 500 miles under normal conditions or 12 to 15 engine hours. Do not run the engine at its maximum
rated engine speed. Also, do not expose the engine to extended periods of high load.
12. Change the oil and filter. Again, inspect the oil and oil filter for any foreign particles to ensure that the engine
is functioning properly.
13. Do not use synthetic oil for break-in. It would be suitable to use synthetic motor oil after the second recommended
oil change and mileage accumulation. In colder regions, a lower viscosity oil may be required for
better flow characteristics.
*Disclaimer - It says drill in here, and if anyone thinks they need to drill anything, AIN'T my fault...*

[Van]

^^Good stuff. Having worked in the motorcycle industry, I know all-too-well the preferred break-in methods used for those engines.

My understanding is that all of these engines are tested at the factory. They're run, at WOT even. However, this isn't to "break in" the engine--but to test that it functions before going in the vehicle. We still do the break-in on it.

From a engineering standpoint -- there's no disputing that the harder break-in method provides both better ring seating and better performance. Its been proven time and time again. Since this method has been utilized -- it also has shown that engines broken in this way also have longevity. No matter which way you slice it.

Engines that pop are typically the result of bad tuning, an inherent flaw in the manufacuring of the engine, or putting too much power through a non-reinforced engine. I've never heard or seen an engine come in because it broke due to improper break-in--not in any of the shops I worked at.

In the manufacturer's method, the general idea is that you break in lightly so that you don't stress the engine thereby causing premature failure of any internal component. However there's an inherent flaw in this thought process. If any component is going to fail, its going to fail regardless because there was something wrong with the engine to begin with. A properly built engine isn't going to fail because of a higher application of load when it was engineered in the first place to create and withstand loads significantly higher (there's always a margin of safety built into these engines which is why you're able to improve HP numbers significantly without upgrading the internals).

One thing people have to remember is that there is a lot more to what the manufacturer recommends than just engine longevity. It's not a conspiracy, no. It's just business. Normal, everyday business.