O2 Sensor won't break loose - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

axis · 01-12-2013, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaBoy25

Use a o2 socket and a impact wrench......like butter son.

Of course install anti seize afterwards.

The sensor threads will melt like butta too.

GaBoy25 · 01-12-2013, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by axis

The sensor threads will melt like butta too.

Lol. I didn't actually do that but I wouldn't put it past me

1 second worth of the impact wrench and it was finger loose...in the good way of course

The Blue Ox · 01-12-2013, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GaBoy25

PB blaster ='s winning.

Frame that chit and call it official

+1 for the PB Blaster! Spray a little on, let it soak, spray a little more and should come out like easy!!!

PonyKiller74 · 01-12-2013, 11:40 PM

theres a simple penetrant called Liquid wrench at Autozone. Worked just fine for me. like $4

C586 · 01-13-2013, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PonyKiller74

theres a simple penetrant called Liquid wrench at Autozone. Worked just fine for me. like $4

If you think that stuff works good wait til you try PB blaster.

Russell James · 01-13-2013, 09:20 AM

Heat is the key.

The service manual says to break the O2s loose right after running the engine. That works the best.

If the pipes have already cooled down, take a small propane torch and heat up the O2 bung.

If the exhaust pipe/bung isn't hot, it will often rip the threads right off the sensor. Which is happening if it stops turning after starting to turn.

Spray stuff might help a bit, but hot exhaust pipes is much more important. Kind of like an oil filter. On a cold engine, the filter can be locked on there with a death grip. Get the engine hot, and the filter will come right off easy.

jrpimp00 · 01-13-2013, 06:54 PM

My friend did his obx install this weekend and had the same problem with the passenger side

mattokeol · 01-13-2013, 07:13 PM

It's pretty much destroyed at this point. I have to buy a new one.

nukemustang · 02-02-2013, 07:31 PM

Add another cross threaded 02 sensor to the mix. 3 of the 4 sensors, no problem, broke free and spun out with my fingers. The passenger side, upstream one.... it took me standing on the manifold, liquid wrenched all over the threads, and a brand new extra long craftsman 7/8inch wrench to remove it. It came out, but the threads are hosed!!! Oh well, after spending all that coin on new LT and cats, I am not going to try to be cheap and shove that back in. Amazon had them for $56, so even overnight shipping it was about $85.

LS3 SS · 02-02-2013, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Russell James

Heat is the key.

The service manual says to break the O2s loose right after running the engine. That works the best.

If the pipes have already cooled down, take a small propane torch and heat up the O2 bung.

If the exhaust pipe/bung isn't hot, it will often rip the threads right off the sensor. Which is happening if it stops turning after starting to turn.

Spray stuff might help a bit, but hot exhaust pipes is much more important. Kind of like an oil filter. On a cold engine, the filter can be locked on there with a death grip. Get the engine hot, and the filter will come right off easy.

Not saying everyone else who is telling you to use PBB and Liquid wrench is wrong, but Heat by far is the easiest way to get your 02's loose.

dragon22 · 02-03-2013, 12:30 AM

Believe it or not...gun oil works great! It's by far the best thing I've ever used for seized bolts. That and parafin wax. Melt the wax onto the joint and it works its way into the threads.

Overkillphil · 02-03-2013, 02:22 AM

+1 PB Blaster or Kroil... The ONLY penetrant better is the old timer's recipe of 50/50 Atf & Acetone. Gotta pull O2s when they're warm though...

heymatt · 02-03-2013, 07:53 AM

How did you finally get it out?

AirManFL · 02-03-2013, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by heymatt

How did you finally get it out?

I didn't...it's still in my stock manifold. I put a pipe wrench on it with a 4' breaker bar and it wouldn't come out.

I ordered a new one and had it overnighted but it wasn't necessary. The car ran fine with one o2 sensor. I had a CEL until I got the car tuned.

Later I found out that there is a TSB to only remove the sensors when the manifold is heated up.

Rob

01-12-2013, 11:40 PM	#18
PonyKiller74 Drives: 2012 Triple Black ZL1 M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 584 View My Garage	theres a simple penetrant called Liquid wrench at Autozone. Worked just fine for me. like $4 __________________ CenterForce DYAD Dual Disc Clutch, JDP stage 2 Clutch Reservoir, Rotofab CF CAI with Big Gulp and WW Reservoir Relocate, Stainess Works LT Headers and Retro Cat-Back with Cat Delete, MGW ST Shifter with custom Knob, CF Tail light Bezels, more to come... Build Thread for my Z is in the works.....

01-13-2013, 06:54 PM	#21
jrpimp00 Drives: '10 Black/IOM Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Fayetteville NC Posts: 530	My friend did his obx install this weekend and had the same problem with the passenger side __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Black/IOM //// 1998 Pontiac Trans AM 819 RWHP @ 12 PSI (Turbo)

02-02-2013, 07:31 PM	#23
nukemustang Drives: 2017 Raptor, 2017 SS Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Charleston, SC Posts: 277	Add another cross threaded 02 sensor to the mix. 3 of the 4 sensors, no problem, broke free and spun out with my fingers. The passenger side, upstream one.... it took me standing on the manifold, liquid wrenched all over the threads, and a brand new extra long craftsman 7/8inch wrench to remove it. It came out, but the threads are hosed!!! Oh well, after spending all that coin on new LT and cats, I am not going to try to be cheap and shove that back in. Amazon had them for $56, so even overnight shipping it was about $85. __________________ Saving for: 2019 ZL1 convertible..... SOLD:2016 2SS Red Hot Convertible with black metallic rally stripes SOLD:2011 Silver Ice Metallic 1SS/RS Convertible. Completed modifications: installed factory HUD, deleted AFM/DOD, Dynatech LT coated headers with high flow cats, Solo Cat back exhaust, CAI inc. intake, Vmax ported TB, SIM quarter flares/splash guards, steering wheel radio controls, PDIM iPod interface in center console, RX catch can, JRE cold air scoop, windshield washer bottle relocation.

02-03-2013, 07:53 AM	#27
heymatt Drives: 2012 IBM 2SS Vert. Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Tequesta, Fl. Posts: 784	How did you finally get it out? __________________ LS3/M6 K&N, VMAX throttle body, RX Catch Can, skip shift eliminator, DT shorties and Solo HFC, DRL harness and 5K LED DRL, ZL1 rear sway, 1LE front sway

01-13-2013, 09:20 AM	#20
Russell James Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Mich Posts: 4,482	Heat is the key. The service manual says to break the O2s loose right after running the engine. That works the best. If the pipes have already cooled down, take a small propane torch and heat up the O2 bung. If the exhaust pipe/bung isn't hot, it will often rip the threads right off the sensor. Which is happening if it stops turning after starting to turn. Spray stuff might help a bit, but hot exhaust pipes is much more important. Kind of like an oil filter. On a cold engine, the filter can be locked on there with a death grip. Get the engine hot, and the filter will come right off easy.

01-13-2013, 07:13 PM	#22
mattokeol Banned Drives: bmw Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: lock Posts: 6	It's pretty much destroyed at this point. I have to buy a new one.

02-03-2013, 12:30 AM	#25
dragon22 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS SIM Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Calgary, Alberta Posts: 1,697 View My Garage	Believe it or not...gun oil works great! It's by far the best thing I've ever used for seized bolts. That and parafin wax. Melt the wax onto the joint and it works its way into the threads.

02-03-2013, 02:22 AM	#26
Overkillphil Tire Destroyer Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS Hurst M6 Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Kingman, Arizona Posts: 164 View My Garage	+1 PB Blaster or Kroil... The ONLY penetrant better is the old timer's recipe of 50/50 Atf & Acetone. Gotta pull O2s when they're warm though...