06-09-2012, 02:10 PM | #43 |
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An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Who knows? Oil ingestion may be good for a roots blower, lube the teflon strips? Still doesn't mean it is good for the engine. |
06-09-2012, 02:17 PM | #44 |
Booooosted.
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Magnuson says no. Neither is seafoam.
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06-09-2012, 02:19 PM | #45 |
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Just the opposite on the roots blower...the buildup of varnish/deposits throws the balance off and when it gets thick enough can cause damage to the leading edges.
It dosen't build up nearly as fast as the intercooler, but is still an issue over time. But the real issue with FI is the detonation battle that the oil causes.....most tuners deal with this. |
06-09-2012, 04:51 PM | #46 |
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you guys make this out to be a major engine destroying problem. how do any car on the road even make it to 100k miles ? most people do not take good care of there engines. and dont even know what a catch can is.
also i would honestly rather have the cleaning done, i just like the idea better. its really not a money thing to me. its the idea that i have my engine cleaned, and checked. |
06-09-2012, 05:13 PM | #47 |
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Would you not rather have an engine that doesn't get dirty than an engine that gets dirty and needs to be cleaned?
Common sense, not so common. |
06-09-2012, 05:30 PM | #48 |
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Your engine will run 100k, 150k or more w/out one.....but how will it run is all laid out in detail in this thread. And willhe is correct. Keep the deposits from forming in the first place and your motor not only lasts longer, but you retain the power and fuel economy it started with.
Also, the upper induction/seafoam cleaning is not w/out risk as I also laid out in the above posts. Most would not throw a bunch of debris/dirt into there intake would they? The upper induction cleaning breaks much (not all) of the hard deposits loose and in runs through the motor and rarely will small particles of a hard abrasive substance travel through w/out some cylinder scoring. Lets try this....can you give any reasons why the oil ingestion, detonation it causes, the deposits are good in any way? Just because 99% of car & light truck owners never have a clue what goes on inside their motor should never be a reason not to have the best for it, unless you really dont care. People spend tons of $ on bling, lights, emblems, chrome or billet caps & covers......but this not only keeps the motor like new longer, who wants power degradation and increased wear, and poor fuel economy? Just lay out the resoning behind not wanting the best/longest/most efficient life out of your motor. |
06-09-2012, 11:01 PM | #49 |
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I have been a U.S.C.G. Licensed Chief Engineer for 30 years. While I lack any certifications for automotive work, I do have a better than average understanding of all things mechanical.
I think everyone can agree that these deposits are not good for your engine. How you take care of thier removal is your business. As for me I will install the catch can because its just better and less expensive. Most don't count the fact that your time is worth money too. Draing the can is faster and more convienant than a trip to the dealership or the parts house.
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06-10-2012, 12:22 AM | #50 |
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That's what my dealer said, "If GM wanted it that way, they would have designed it that way." This came from the same person who, when asked, did not even know what a catch can was . Admittedly, I didn't hardly know either, but I'm not a service manager. Maybe if I had said "oil separator"? In any case, I could tell right away that the words "aftermarket" and "modification" to him equals "warranty voided".
So in a case where someone is about to turn 23k miles with no catch can, would it be recommended to do the cleaning first, then the install, or just live with what has already accumulated and install a catch can to prevent any further ingestion? The idea of leftover deposits being knocked loose and swirling around doesn't make one feel warm and fuzzy...
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06-15-2012, 12:29 PM | #51 | |||
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Quote:
here's a big question for everyone... why choose one over the other? why not install the catch can and spend the extra 100 bucks over the lifetime of the car to keep it clean. you can't tell me that a catch can keeps 100% of engine oil out of the intake. which means that its going to need cleaning anyway. I believe that may be where styrch was going with his posts.
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06-15-2012, 12:38 PM | #52 | |
Booooosted.
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Plus, the Professors claim of Snake Oil was uncalled for imo. Oh, and, I'm sure there is a possibility that 2+2=* but not for simple fold like me. hahahaha |
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06-15-2012, 01:00 PM | #53 | |||
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Quote:
install a catch can and clean your engine. and I'll try to give you a call on sunday and explain how 2+2≈4 don't have enough time right now for ya.
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06-15-2012, 01:03 PM | #54 | |
Booooosted.
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Quote:
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06-15-2012, 01:27 PM | #55 | |
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Quote:
Simply install a clear glass inline fuel filter between any can and the IM and see it fill up. Then do it w/the RX can and see no oil ingestion period. Thats why I have shown so many pictures of engines using the RX can from new vs no can....or a poor functioning can. Look close at the cutaway RX to see just how complex the routing, baffeling chambers,coalscing, and condensing....as well as the flow controlling check valves,etc. No other can has even a fraction of the internal design and with over 10,000 sold, it continues to outperform any period. Now, the Elite, AMW,Mike Norris, and Saikou Micchi are excelent as well and catch nearly all. From there, even the biggest names allow a ton through so no upper induction cleaning is needed if your not causing the deposits to begin with....but dont be afraid, just post how 2+2=4 so we can all try to follow your logic. |
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06-15-2012, 01:40 PM | #56 |
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Tracy,
Im 100% convinced that i need a catch can and will get one very soon, But while installing my iceolator i noticed that my valves are exactly like the ones in the pics (from the OP). Once the damage is done, what would be the best way to clean that. I have no problem removing the Intake Manifold again if necessary. Thanks in advance
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