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Old 03-22-2016, 11:36 PM   #1
Maverick1776
 
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Anyone ever claybar the whole car ?

Today I clayed my whole car. Using mother's clay kit. Took a while, but the results are ridiculous. Water beads off the surface with ease.
I have had the car for 3 years now, and have never waxed it once. Probably a bad thing, especially after seeing the result from clay. Got rid of all the tough spots that wouldn't wash away with a normal wash.
I'll upload pics tomorrow, because it got dark already.

Going forward, does anyone have recommendations on how to maintain the shine ? What products, etc...
I usually use mother branded products.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:39 PM   #2
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I just did a he same earlier except I polished and waxed with my buffer.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:43 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by gennro View Post
I just did a he same earlier except I polished and waxed with my buffer.
Nice, wish I knew how to properly use a buffer. I'm too afraid to try.
A friend of mine had a plum colored 2011' 370Z. He, buffed it, and had swirl marks left behind. Really bad mistake.
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:56 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick1776 View Post
Nice, wish I knew how to properly use a buffer. I'm too afraid to try.
A friend of mine had a plum colored 2011' 370Z. He, buffed it, and had swirl marks left behind. Really bad mistake.

Lose the fear and get a PC-variety random orbital buffer, it's basically fool-proof and very difficult to harm paint with. I'm willing to bet your friend used a rotary buffer, which is difficult to use and dangerous to the paint for a beginner trying to use it.
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Old 03-23-2016, 03:41 AM   #5
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1: Welcome to the world of detailing! You've seen what claying can do. Once you get going with added methods of making your baby shine, you'll get hooked - I know I did!

2: I've used the Mothers kit too, and it gives great results. There's another product called a Speedy Prep Towel that does the same thing but is a whole lot quicker. You can do a full-sized car in about an hour.

3: You should definitely put at least wax on top of that clay job. Not only to add protection, but it will enhance the shine. Enhance it further by following up with a coat of detail spray (spray it on, wipe it off; takes about 15 minutes to do the whole car).

4: I was scared of using a buffer too, but I found that the fear was unnecessary. Chances are, your friend used a more abrasive pad than needed and didn't follow with a finer one, and/or didn't use a fine enough polish. Like the others said, use a DA polisher (Porter Cable is a popular brand), and you won't have any trouble.

If you want links to any of these products, just ask. There are plenty of great resources here at C5!
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Last edited by scandata; 03-24-2016 at 12:19 PM.
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Old 03-23-2016, 08:23 AM   #6
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It is a nasty task, but found a better way to clay the car down, that is after washing it when it is still wet, with the help of some product to go along it went much easier. If you go to http://adamspolishes.com/ and watch some of the videos they can be very helpful.
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Old 03-23-2016, 09:05 AM   #7
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I ONLY claybar my cars. I will never put an orbital polisher on my paint unless it is absolutely unavoidable. Swirls are forever, like herpes. I claybar both mine and my wife's car every spring to get rid of all the contaminants and crap from the winter. Time consuming but the end results are second to none.

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Old 03-23-2016, 10:13 AM   #8
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't claying your car strip all the protection off of your paint? I was told you should polish and wax immediately after using the clay bar. I thought using the clay bar prepares your paint for polish and wax?
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jus1dab View Post
Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't claying your car strip all the protection off of your paint? I was told you should polish and wax immediately after using the clay bar. I thought using the clay bar prepares your paint for polish and wax?
Yes, I use dawn to strip the wax while I wash it then the clay bar gets the contaminants embedded in the paint out, then polish, then protect
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:41 AM   #10
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I always do a stripping wash with either dawn dish soap or a capfull or two of adams APC before claying. I only clay when I am prepared to do a whole exterior detail.
1. Strip Wash
2. Clay Bar
3. Polish
4. Seal
5. Wax
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Old 03-23-2016, 10:42 AM   #11
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If you like the "over the counter" clay bars, try Clay Magic's. They have several different levels of aggressiveness and works more efficiently than Mother's or Maguire's systems. Readily available at places like Painter's Supply or Auto Value that sells paint.

Yes clay bar will open all the pores in the paint and remove oxidation (depending on level of aggressiveness) and it is recommended to seal or wax when finished.

I wash with dawn dish soap first, clay, then wax as long as there are no imperfections that need to be addressed.
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Old 03-23-2016, 01:39 PM   #12
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I agree now you need to apply a sealant or wax to help protect your paint from contaminants and water spots. Did you clay your glass too?
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:29 PM   #13
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If your going to stay with Mothers, Id use the syn wax first. This is their most durable product, but the durability is low, 3-4 months. You can top it with their pure Brazilian carnauba wax.

Carnauba waxes have a melting point around 180*f , in the hot Florida summer sun, wax can begin to evaporate pretty quickly.

Sealants have melting points around 300*f, and provide better UV protection and durability. Sonus Ion paint coating is easy to use and lasts 8-12 months.

For a fast and effective lighter sealant, as a topper to your main sealant, Adams H2O Guard & Gloss. This product is used on the paint as well as all the black plastic trim. It provides excellent UV protection and lasts 2-3 months, it only takes 15 minutes to apply. Adds a good amount of gloss to the finish as well.

For the best shine, as others have mentioned, polishing with a RO polisher is how to make your paint look the best. It's easy to do, just very time consuming on your first time, because you have to compound first to remove swirls/scratches, and finish to produce high gloss.

After your initial job is complete, future polishing will require only finishing polish, provided you wash/dry the car correctly. Most all of the damage to clear coat paint is due to improper washing/drying.
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Old 03-23-2016, 04:42 PM   #14
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i've never used the clay bar but my brother insists i should. i told him my paint is new and i have always taken excellent care. i wax every 3 months using the season change dates as a reminder.
i did just break out the meguiars polish for a wash, polish & wax this past weekend. it is worth it. polish makes a big difference. i finished up with zymol creame. i also use adams americana as my alternate.
the downside? you have to REALLY love this. it took me SEVEN hours to do both cars. ( exterior only ) . and that was without a serious wheel detail which i did the next day.
i understand why people don't care to have their arm fall off. but it is worth it to me.
oh - and rain-x for the windshield - a great product that lives up to the claims.
and no orbital polisher I use my hand.
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