Planning to install Procharger (600+ HP), What to upgrade in the car?

[T-r3x]

Hi
How's everyone doing today?

I'm planning to install a Procharger on my LS3 to get about 620 HP!
But I'm wondering if the engine and other components of the car will handle that much power! (Transmission, drive shaft,rear end, and drive train)
Will the stock engine handle that much power or should I upgrade some parts in the engine?
will that power effect my engine in the feature ?

Please help me to decide what to do :(
I need an experienced answer

Thanks all

[grocerygetter]

620 at the crank? bolt on kit and go, all day long. 620whp...you will FOR SURE have to pulley down the blower or keep the boost lower and add a cam to get that number from a P1sc kit. D1sc upgrade would get you closer but you will still be pulleying down. Look at the ECS kit...their kit makes closer to that whp but at more boost through a plate restricting it down to 10psi (still more boost than the other companies).
LS motor will hold that all day long. Just have a good tuner. Base tunes that come with all the SC kits blow goats' nuts.

[Kelly@PCMofNC]

Originally Posted by T-r3x

Hi
How's everyone doing today?

I'm planning to install a Procharger on my LS3 to get about 620 HP!
But I'm wondering if the engine and other components of the car will handle that much power! (Transmission, drive shaft,rear end, and drive train)
Will the stock engine handle that much power or should I upgrade some parts in the engine?
will that power effect my engine in the feature ?

Please help me to decide what to do :(
I need an experienced answer

Thanks all

620 rwhp or crank?

It just depends. If you go to the drag strip a lot, beat on it a lot, yeah things are going to break. The transmissions are generally pretty strong in these cars, the axles are not, so I'd be replacing those if it's going to get beat on. Also look into upgrading the suspension to help with wheel hop, which is what really kills components in a hurry. Stock driveshaft is usually fine at that hp level.

As far as the engine, the LS3's will hold a good amount of power as long as parts are installed correctly and more importantly the tune is spot on. Get a wideband gauge installed in the car to stay on top of fueling. My own LS3 makes 700rwhp and runs great, stock bottom end (save cam).

[Joe@CPR.com]

For crank hp it will handle that all day long. we have put many ls3 motors through 700+ rwhp for many many miles w/ zero issues. If you want that to the wheels than you will want to consider a clutch and a few other misc items. If you would like to chat on the phone, email, or pm about this more in depth please let us know.

[vroomapunk]

See above. all good advice.

[T-r3x]

Originally Posted by grocerygetter

620 at the crank? bolt on kit and go, all day long. 620whp...you will FOR SURE have to pulley down the blower or keep the boost lower and add a cam to get that number from a P1sc kit. D1sc upgrade would get you closer but you will still be pulleying down. Look at the ECS kit...their kit makes closer to that whp but at more boost through a plate restricting it down to 10psi (still more boost than the other companies).
LS motor will hold that all day long. Just have a good tuner. Base tunes that come with all the SC kits blow goats' nuts.

Actually I'm thinking about the D1sc
I want to get 620 whp, but what do you mean by (pulley down)? Less psi?

[T-r3x]

Originally Posted by Kelly@PCMofNC

620 rwhp or crank?

It just depends. If you go to the drag strip a lot, beat on it a lot, yeah things are going to break. The transmissions are generally pretty strong in these cars, the axles are not, so I'd be replacing those if it's going to get beat on. Also look into upgrading the suspension to help with wheel hop, which is what really kills components in a hurry. Stock driveshaft is usually fine at that hp level.

As far as the engine, the LS3's will hold a good amount of power as long as parts are installed correctly and more importantly the tune is spot on. Get a wideband gauge installed in the car to stay on top of fueling. My own LS3 makes 700rwhp and runs great, stock bottom end (save cam).

So, in my case I most upgrade the differentials only, right?
Nothing to do with the engine?

[T-r3x]

Originally Posted by Joe@CPR.com

For crank hp it will handle that all day long. we have put many ls3 motors through 700+ rwhp for many many miles w/ zero issues. If you want that to the wheels than you will want to consider a clutch and a few other misc items. If you would like to chat on the phone, email, or pm about this more in depth please let us know.

Did you upgrade the differentials or the engine for these cars?

[grocerygetter]

A smaller pulley means more boost because the compressor spins faster. The slang term pulley down means to drop a pulley size down for more boost.

[T-r3x]

Originally Posted by grocerygetter

A smaller pulley means more boost because the compressor spins faster. The slang term pulley down means to drop a pulley size down for more boost.

Got it
Thanks
How much will it cost to upgrade my differential?
I think it's the only thing that I need to upgrade, right?

[grocerygetter]

Sounds like u need to search and research before spending money. Just smarter.

[T-r3x]

Originally Posted by grocerygetter

Sounds like u need to search and research before spending money. Just smarter.

That's what i'm doing

[62nalide]

Should be a beast!

[Kelly@PCMofNC]

Originally Posted by T-r3x

So, in my case I most upgrade the differentials only, right?
Nothing to do with the engine?

I would leave the differential alone until it breaks, and just replace the axles themselves as those tend to be weak points.

I would also leave the bottom end alone until something happened to it, unless you're dead set on doing a stroker motor or something. A well thought out package with a good compressor, good supporting mods, and a good tune will last a very long time on an LS3's stock rotating assembly.

I would not just put the procharger on there and go for 620rwhp. Assuming your car is all stock it would take roughly 12-13 lbs of boost to do that. Adding a cam and headers would help you reach that number MUCH more safely and comfortably. A headers/decently cammed LS3 makes around 470 on a dyno jet. To obtain 620rwhp from there would only take about 8lbs boost. 8 lbs boost vs 13 lbs boost = lots less belt slip to combat, cooler IATs, and makes the engine a far more efficient air pump vs. relying on the blower to take up that huge difference. Also easier tuning wise if cammed/headers as you won't be so limited in timing.

Be aware of your fuel system too. To make 620rwhp you will need some kind of fuel pump (in tank or BAP) and most likely larger injectors than what the procharger will come with. I like the fuel injector connection 850cc or 1000cc personally.