Removing swirls/micro scratches from black car

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by j.curt

Is there a better product out there for removing the swirls for beginingers with the DA polisher that may not have the best technique?

Their is no compound or polish that will fix improper technique, good technique is not difficult to accomplish.

1.Prep the surface properly, remove all glaze, wax, and sealant from the surface. Clay and decon if needed.

2. Keep your section area small, around 18" x 18".

3. Prime the pad properly. I like the "Kevin Brown Method" of priming the pad, followed by a few small drops of polish for your 18" x 18" section. Spread it out on a low speed (1 or 2) evenly across the section. Bump the speed up to 5. Move the polisher SLOW. About 1 inch per second, with just enough pressure that will make the machine slow down a little, it will sound different when you do this, it doesn't take a lot of pressure. Keep the pad as flat as you possibly can.

4. Work it in a cross hatch method, overlapping by 50 to 75 percent of your last pass, when it turns clear, or "flashes", wipe it off with very light pressure. It's not uncommon after compounding to have light micro-marring, which the 205 will remove in the next step.

5. Clean your pad every section, to remove paint and polish residue, Mike Phillips at Autogeek has an "on the fly" method of cleaning your pad using a towel. If your pad is clean and your not getting the same results on the next section, it's time to change to a new pad.

6. When inspecting your work use a swirl finder to ensure your getting your desired results. No use moving on if your not getting what you want.

Since you have already used 105 on your car, I would start using 205 on your white pad (I'm assuming you are using the same pads in AJ's video, CG Hexlogic 5.5?) If this doesn't remove the defects, step up to 205 on the orange.

I don't remember the thread name, but someone on here used 205 on orange to remove some light swirls on a black Camaro, and paint finished down well. If this doesn't work then I'd go with the 105.

Don't get in a hurry, take your time, take a break if you get tired.

My initial full correction took me 22 hours of just polishing time, but IMHO was 100% worth it.

I'm still curious as to what wash method/media you are using. This is what causes the swirls.

Their is no point to remove them if your going to put them right back in. Again I would just do the hood or trunk, get your wash method/media right so you know your not marring the surface while doing this, then once you have it down, correct the whole car. The only polishing you'll need then is 205 or a light finishing polish once every 6 months or so, to remove any very light marring, and leave a high gloss on your paint.

[j.curt]

I watched the Youtube series by the Junkman. I believe I am using proper technique, I am already doing what you suggested. Should I buy something to strip the stuff I did last weekend? What is the swirl finder you talk about and where can I find one?

Something did not go right the first time so I want to start over with the 105. I do the work in the garage so I can't see results until the next morning when the sun is out.

Thanks for the help!

[trashmanssd]

I wouldn't start with 105, I would try 205 first. Clear coat is thin there is only so much you can remove before its all gone. 205 with a polishing pad that has a little cut should clear up most of what you see. I did my nieces whole 3 year old beat up car with just 205 and a white lake country flat pad. It only needed 105 with a orange flat pad in a few spots that had deeper scratches. It takes time and practice to get good at it took me 2-3 cars to get my feet under me 7-8 to actually feel like i could get results I was happy with not perfect but very good 80 percent of the way to perfect. from there up takes years of pro work to get through that last 20 percent thats what the real pros get paid for ( not the hacks at dealers or at hack shops).

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by j.curt

I watched the Youtube series by the Junkman. I believe I am using proper technique, I am already doing what you suggested. Should I buy something to strip the stuff I did last weekend? What is the swirl finder you talk about and where can I find one?

Something did not go right the first time so I want to start over with the 105. I do the work in the garage so I can't see results until the next morning when the sun is out.

Thanks for the help!

If you have APC you can do a strip wash with it mixing a couple ounces in your soap bucket along with your soap, you can also use a soap like CG Citrus in a stronger concentration which will strip on it's own.

I like to do an IPA wipedown, the 91% mixed 50/50 with distilled water prior to polishing as well, just to be sure I've removed everything.

The sealant your using has an excellent bond to the paint, so you might want to do this twice after strip wash.

I wanted a Brinkmann swirl finder, but it was discontinued so I got the Flex from Autogeek. They had a 20% off sale and I think with shipping it was around $34.

It took me a while to learn how to use it. The beam can be made smaller or larger by pulling or pushing the end closest to the lens in/out, different settings work better on different base colors, and once you "dial it in", it works great.

I still would like to know how you are washing/drying your car, and what type of wash media you are using, I think this is where your swirls are coming from.

[j.curt]

After watching some more video's, I agree that the swirls are coming from the wash. I use the dry me crazy towel to dry but I using just a regular bucket and mitt from Walmart to wash. I'm going to find a place that can ship that light to me by Friday and start over.

[j.curt]

The swirl finder doesn't look much different than a regular light. Is there something I can buy at Walmart or a different department store that will do the same thing.

[Joe M 2012 2SS]

Originally Posted by j.curt

After watching some more video's, I agree that the swirls are coming from the wash. I use the dry me crazy towel to dry but I using just a regular bucket and mitt from Walmart to wash. I'm going to find a place that can ship that light to me by Friday and start over.

I'd definitely get a foam gun, the one I use is very inexpensive and well made.

Bunny K Gilmour Foamaster, runs about $27 with shipping on Amazon.

You need two buckets with grit guards. I paid a little more for mine, I bought the Adams w/gamma seal. Those things are tanks! I've knocked them over, sat on them, accidently stepped on the lids, and never had an issue with them. Very high quality.

I also use the Microfiber Madness Incredimitt, this thing is soft as can be, traps dirt in the long fibers, and releases dirt in the rinse bucket easily. I've had it for 6 plus months, used it at least 100 times, on my car and others, and it's still as soft and absorbant as the day I got it.

Your soap is as important as the media, IMHO. Again, I like the Adams Car Shampoo, tons of lubricity, I never have to "scrub" the paint to clean it, just "glide" the mitt across the surface. If it dries on cool paint, it never spots or streaks, rinses clean, a really good soap.

I also use the Adams Detail Spray when drying, 1 mist per panel aids in drying, adds lubricity, leaves the car with a "fresh waxed" look and smells terrific.

There are other shampoo's and detail spray's that are less expensive. I like Adams because they guarantee 110% you'll like it. I use several of their products and haven't seen any need to return it. Buying by the gallon is the way to go, saves money over the long run. Catch it on sale and use discount code camaro5 for an extra 10% off.

You should search for videos of how to do a "pooling" rinse as well. You can remove around 80% of the water on your car after rinsing with this technique. The detail spray and Dry Me Crazy will take care of the rest with no pressure applied, just gliding it across the surface.

Filtered air is also a good way to dry. An electric leaf blower with a filter, will dry all the "hard to dry areas" like the rear view mirrors, the rims, the front grill, the rear brake lights, etc.

The Gary Dean wash method is also a good approach to cleaning your car. I'm an "old school" guy so I use the Foam Gun / 2 Bucket wash.

Perhaps Roshan, (ihaveacamaro) or someone else with experience with this method can chime in on it's use and what products work best for them with it.

[j.curt]

I live in the part of California where is doesn't rain and there is yellow pollen year round. I can park my car outside for a couple hours and it will be covered in yellow pollen. What is the best way to remove the pollen? I would assume wiping it down with a microfiber towel will cause scratches. The pollen is very coarse.

[Adam's Polishes]

Originally Posted by Joe M 2012 2SS

Their is no compound or polish that will fix improper technique, good technique is not difficult to accomplish.

Truer words have never been spoken... or posted in this case. With even really mediocre quality polishes good technique can take you a long ways. Theres a ceiling, obviously, on what can be achieved with certain combinations of machines, pads, and polishes, but you should be able to correct most any average swirls with what you have outlined.

Originally Posted by j.curt

I live in the part of California where is doesn't rain and there is yellow pollen year round. I can park my car outside for a couple hours and it will be covered in yellow pollen. What is the best way to remove the pollen? I would assume wiping it down with a microfiber towel will cause scratches. The pollen is very coarse.

Wet removal is always safest - so ideally you'd want to wash the traditional way for pollen (hose, buckets, soap, etc) but obviously thats not always the best option or even an option at all with water restrictions.

Next safest would be Rinseless washing - heres a video that outlines a process that can be done with just a few ounces of Rinseless Wash, a bucket of water, towels, and a dilution bottle.



Lowest on the 'safe' level would be waterless washing, which is pure spray and wipe. Using lots of product to saturate the pollen would help a ton.

[j.curt]

So basically I just need to spray the car with the waterless wash diluted like in the video and wipe clean?

[Adam's Polishes]

Originally Posted by j.curt

So basically I just need to spray the car with the waterless wash diluted like in the video and wipe clean?

You can, but the better option is to follow all the steps in the video. Pre-soak with diluted RW, then do the bucket method with multiple towels.

[j.curt]

I started with the 205 again today and it is starting to look better. I don't have a lot left and will have to get some more. Is there anything out there that can replace the 205 and works better?

[j.curt]

After many hours I finished the hood and it looks pretty good. I used the 105 follow by 205 followed by Black Light and then put Adams paint sealant on it. Am I missing anything? How long should this last before I have to do it again? I will be using the two bucket wash system from now on.

I am also almost out of the 205. Should I get more to finish the car with what I started with or is there something better out there? The swirls and tiny scratches on my car are pretty bad so the 205 is taking a couple passes.

Thanks