Steering wheel swap (auto wheel on manual trans) to use paddle shifters as buttons..

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by CFD

I'm pretty familiar with the switches and their functions and should be able to help you out if you have any questions

Hey CFD, Don't mean to hijack this thread but related question ...I'm looking to replace my 2013 SS manual steering wheel with a 2010 SS manual wheel. Would you know if the pin positions on the harness connections are the same? Thanks!

[CFD]

Originally Posted by camguynj

Hey CFD, Don't mean to hijack this thread but related question ...I'm looking to replace my 2013 SS manual steering wheel with a 2010 SS manual wheel. Would you know if the pin positions on the harness connections are the same? Thanks!

I'm pretty sure 2010-2013 are the same

[Rainbow1616]

Yes they are the same

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by CFD

I'm pretty sure 2010-2013 are the same

Originally Posted by Rainbow1616

Yes they are the same

Thanks guys! Much appreciated

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by Shtiggs

I found this but if you have more it would be helpful. I think I have everything I need here since one of my buttons just needs to be a ground switch and the other is 12v. I think I will be able to get both of them in and use what I see as an open spot on the connector to pin out the extra wire I will need and since I have a manual transmission the purple data wire is free for me to use without impact to anything existing.

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showt...=337879&page=2

That was interesting....looks like you will be able to make that work the way you want. I would advise using the switches to activate relays though. Those switches will not withstand high current flow. They were only designed to pull down a resistor in the BCM. Even the windings in a relay may be too much for them.............

[CFD]

I have converted many switches for use with line lock, nitrous and similar accessories with no issues

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by CFD

I have converted many switches for use with line lock, nitrous and similar accessories with no issues

Line lock and Nitrous? Not this guy! I've seen too many micro switches (not necessarily these) fail in the on position to trust that! Good luck to anyone doing that, I would hate to see the result of a failure....just my opinion.

[Shtiggs]

Update:
I am getting the wheel ordered today and will post pics and updates here as I progress. Seems like a very simple task now that I have the wiring and have seen how the switches are constructed.

[Shtiggs]

Originally Posted by Car Nation Videos

I would keep your steering wheel and get after market paddles on it and wire it yourself.

I think that would be more work than just doing the mod on an auto steering wheel just to make it look as clean as I want. Since I am not using the purple data wire I do not need to worry about impacting existing controls. The paddle shifter circuit is simple and it is easy to remove the resistors and add in a single wire to the pinout of the connector to give me a ground switch and a 12v switch.

[Shtiggs]

Originally Posted by NOT A 45

Line lock and Nitrous? Not this guy! I've seen too many micro switches (not necessarily these) fail in the on position to trust that! Good luck to anyone doing that, I would hate to see the result of a failure....just my opinion.

I would not worry about these switches. I have not heard of any issues with the switch failing which would surly be a BIG complaint and problem in an automatic car. Line locks and NOS should have master switches on them anyway so a failure of the micro switch would pose about as much problems as any other momentary failing in the closed position.
As for my use I will be using it for line locks (with remote master switch) and a "scramble boost" function of my boost controller so worst thing that would happen on a failure on that one would be higher duty cycle on the boost controller solenoid.

I do see where you are coming from and I appreciate your input.
I can most likely use both of them to activate relays pretty easy like you suggested. I will think about that further and see what I can come up with and run it by this post.
Once I have the wheel I will ID the micro switch and post the tech specs so we can all know what the real limits of the switch are.

[Shtiggs]

Originally Posted by CFD

I have converted many switches for use with line lock, nitrous and similar accessories with no issues

Took a peak at some relays and was wondering if we could use some off the shelf circuit or maybe an arduino so we can control some relays with the pull down circuit in the same manner as OEM does for up and downshift signals. The link below is for a 12v circuit but I am pretty sure that I will be able to find one with a 5v com and 12v relays if we need it. does anyone know the reference current on the data line and the high and low values for each. I am willing to buy the circuit just to give it a go but I want to have some data to go on as well.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Chann...s%2C130&sr=8-3

I will take my wheel off and confirm what I can once the new wheel comes in but it looks like there is some really interesting and relevant information here.
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/t....143000/page-2

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by Shtiggs

Took a peak at some relays and was wondering if we could use some off the shelf circuit or maybe an arduino so we can control some relays with the pull down circuit in the same manner as OEM does for up and downshift signals. The link below is for a 12v circuit but I am pretty sure that I will be able to find one with a 5v com and 12v relays if we need it. does anyone know the reference current on the data line and the high and low values for each. I am willing to buy the circuit just to give it a go but I want to have some data to go on as well.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Chann...s%2C130&sr=8-3

I will take my wheel off and confirm what I can once the new wheel comes in but it looks like there is some really interesting and relevant information here.
https://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/t....143000/page-2

The BCM sends 12v to the up&down switches. There are different resistors in each switch and the BCM measures the voltage drop to determine what the command is. The largest current flow through the switches is .02 amps....very small! A typical relay will pull .16 amps...7 times more. Can the switch hold that? Probably

[Shtiggs]

Originally Posted by NOT A 45

The BCM sends 12v to the up&down switches. There are different resistors in each switch and the BCM measures the voltage drop to determine what the command is. The largest current flow through the switches is .02 amps....very small! A typical relay will pull .16 amps...7 times more. Can the switch hold that? Probably

I think I may be able to do the same thing as the BCM with an Arduino. I am still just spit balling until I get the wheel and hook it up for some testing and experimentation, but here is what I am thinking and it should be under 50$.

Disconnect the purple wire from the BCM (or just tap into it) and connect that to the arduino. Send 12v current, test and code for the current drop according to nothing, left, and right paddle and use the arduino to flip the relays for the desired auxiliary function.

Thoughts?

[NOT A 45]

Originally Posted by Shtiggs

I think I may be able to do the same thing as the BCM with an Arduino. I am still just spit balling until I get the wheel and hook it up for some testing and experimentation, but here is what I am thinking and it should be under 50$.

Disconnect the purple wire from the BCM (or just tap into it) and connect that to the arduino. Send 12v current, test and code for the current drop according to nothing, left, and right paddle and use the arduino to flip the relays for the desired auxiliary function.

Thoughts?

I think that might be overkill....probably ok just bypassing the resistors in the switches and separating them. Use each one as a ground for the control side of a relay and power your devices that way.