Full Cradle Bushings vs. Cradle Bushing inserts? - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

JDP Sales · 11-26-2013, 07:01 PM

As I said in our PM's, Full bushings are a must at your power level. There is not much NVH transmitted by the solid bushings, but the movement they prevent/stop is crazy.

I know most have seen this video, but to this day, it's probably the best demonstration of deflection in the suspension I have seen.

Do it once, do it right; go with Pfadt.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

casper sc/1ss/rs · 11-26-2013, 07:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

Hey this forum's for motorheads, LOL. You're lucky we can type!!!

Dexman1349 · 11-26-2013, 08:31 PM

Damn Tyler. Something else I can't afford but want (and probably need)...

LS3 SS · 11-26-2013, 08:47 PM

That video definitely makes me a believer. That price is up there though. I'm gonna work on the Toe rods and UCAs and then eventually work my way to the cradle bushings. So many parts I need! LOL.

Bo White · 11-27-2013, 12:49 AM

Just drop the cradle down far enough for a socket to go between the bushing and frame. Heat the cradle around the bushing until it starts to melt the plastic and then jack up the cradle and push the bushing out.

ssmike · 11-27-2013, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bo White

Just drop the cradle down far enough for a socket to go between the bushing and frame. Heat the cradle around the bushing until it starts to melt the plastic and then jack up the cradle and push the bushing out.

Exactly! If you contact JusticePete from Pedders or do a search there are great DIY's of this! I agree with Tyler, do it right and do full bushings! I had BMR inserts and was never happy with them, I could still feel the rear end moving around! I went with Pedders full bushings and it made a big difference! Stick with the top 2 brands also, Pedders or Pfadt, I've seen others fail under hard road course work!

Dexman1349 · 11-27-2013, 10:00 AM

What's the difference between the Pedders EP1201 and the Pfadt full bushings?

Pedders:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings

Pfadt:
http://store.pfadtracing.com/2010-ca...rame-bushings/

Based on price, it looks like the Pfadt is more in-line with the Pedders HD version:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings

BMR Sales · 11-27-2013, 10:20 AM

I would definitely recommend the full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings for your power level. Our BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024) would be very good option for you that is very affordable and will perform well for you at your current power level and if you decide to make more power in the future. We have these same rear cradle bushings installed in many cars that drag race and autocross so they will be up to the task of handling pretty much anything you can throw at them.

Also we are staring our Black Friday/Cyber Monday Sale today so you can order these parts and get 15% off and free shipping. If there is anything we can help you out with let us know.

BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024)

ssmike · 11-27-2013, 10:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

What's the difference between the Pedders EP1201 and the Pfadt full bushings?

Pedders:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings

Pfadt:
http://store.pfadtracing.com/2010-ca...rame-bushings/

Based on price, it looks like the Pfadt is more in-line with the Pedders HD version:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings

Yes I believe the Pfadt solids are on the same level as the pedders HD high durometer urethane bushings. I have the EP1201's installed and they are perfect for HPDE and autocross. The HD's and solids I would think are more for serious race applications.

Bo White · 11-27-2013, 11:08 AM

I called Kyle and he took care of me on these exact ones.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMR Sales

I would definitely recommend the full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings for your power level. Our BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024) would be very good option for you that is very affordable and will perform well for you at your current power level and if you decide to make more power in the future. We have these same rear cradle bushings installed in many cars that drag race and autocross so they will be up to the task of handling pretty much anything you can throw at them.

Also we are staring our Black Friday/Cyber Monday Sale today so you can order these parts and get 15% off and free shipping. If there is anything we can help you out with let us know.

BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024)

JDP Sales · 11-27-2013, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LS3 SS

That video definitely makes me a believer. That price is up there though. I'm gonna work on the Toe rods and UCAs and then eventually work my way to the cradle bushings. So many parts I need! LOL.

I would strongly recommend doing both at the same time if you can swing it. There is a TON of overlapping labor and IMO they should really be done at the same time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexman1349

What's the difference between the Pedders EP1201 and the Pfadt full bushings?

Pedders:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings

Pfadt:
http://store.pfadtracing.com/2010-ca...rame-bushings/

Based on price, it looks like the Pfadt is more in-line with the Pedders HD version:
http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings

Polyurethane vs a Solid aluminum piece. Polyurethane is not bad for bolt-on to mild cammed cars, but for anything close to 500 RWHP+ I recommend the solid aluminum bushings. They will last longer and secure the rear cradle better than polyurethane ever will.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

TBone · 11-27-2013, 03:44 PM

LS3,

You have a Bis @ss cam and you're worried about noise??

Look, get the full Pedders bushings Kit from JDP and be done with it. You will not be sorry.

If I knew you were looking for a toe rod I could have helped you out.

T.

caverman · 11-28-2013, 09:46 AM

ADM Performance has a solid bushing as well. It hasn't been around as much but looks to be a nice piece and priced decently. Just an option to look into. He quoted me the full cradle bushing plus upper control arm bushings installed for about the price of a set of Pfadt full bushing.
http://www.admperformance.com/produc...63&product=258

Although inserts are a much easier install, if I were at your power level I would step up to the full bush. Just go ahead and get it done right the first time. I've been using Pedders cradle inserts for a couple years now and they've worked just fine for me but I'm only at about 415 rwhp.

VR Baron · 11-28-2013, 10:07 AM

Yeah at more then 450 hp do full pedders or Whiteline bushing.

11-26-2013, 08:31 PM	#17
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	Damn Tyler. Something else I can't afford but want (and probably need)... __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

11-26-2013, 08:47 PM	#18
LS3 SS Drives: 2010 Cyber Grey Camaro SS (LS3) Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Clarksville TN Posts: 2,275	That video definitely makes me a believer. That price is up there though. I'm gonna work on the Toe rods and UCAs and then eventually work my way to the cradle bushings. So many parts I need! LOL. __________________ GPI SS3 Cam / PRC 255 heads / Forged 376ci bottom / Fore level 2 fuel system / D1SC ProCharger on 12lbs / Alky control dual nozzle / 770 whp / 649 wtq tuned by Ryan Stevens at GPI

11-27-2013, 12:49 AM	#19
Bo White Drives: 2015 Summit White 2SS 1LE Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Vance Alabama Posts: 8,019	Just drop the cradle down far enough for a socket to go between the bushing and frame. Heat the cradle around the bushing until it starts to melt the plastic and then jack up the cradle and push the bushing out. __________________ Retired wanna be cylinder head porter 2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter Totalled: 2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X

11-27-2013, 10:00 AM	#21
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	What's the difference between the Pedders EP1201 and the Pfadt full bushings? Pedders: http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings Pfadt: http://store.pfadtracing.com/2010-ca...rame-bushings/ Based on price, it looks like the Pfadt is more in-line with the Pedders HD version: http://www.peddersusa.com/product/Ca...radle-Bushings __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

11-27-2013, 03:44 PM	#26
TBone Negative Camber Junkie Drives: 2010 1SS LS3/6MN ABM 1 of 23 Join Date: May 2009 Location: ChiTown, IL Posts: 1,824	LS3, You have a Bis @ss cam and you're worried about noise?? Look, get the full Pedders bushings Kit from JDP and be done with it. You will not be sorry. If I knew you were looking for a toe rod I could have helped you out. T. __________________ "Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same. Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different. I can't wait for my next Track fix. DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!!

11-26-2013, 07:01 PM	#15
JDP Sales Drives: Chevys at the limit Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: SLC, UT Posts: 9,621	As I said in our PM's, Full bushings are a must at your power level. There is not much NVH transmitted by the solid bushings, but the movement they prevent/stop is crazy. I know most have seen this video, but to this day, it's probably the best demonstration of deflection in the suspension I have seen. Do it once, do it right; go with Pfadt. Best regards, Tyler 888-308-6007

11-27-2013, 10:20 AM	#22
BMR Sales Drives: Race Car Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Seffner, FL Posts: 6,226	I would definitely recommend the full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings for your power level. Our BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024) would be very good option for you that is very affordable and will perform well for you at your current power level and if you decide to make more power in the future. We have these same rear cradle bushings installed in many cars that drag race and autocross so they will be up to the task of handling pretty much anything you can throw at them. Also we are staring our Black Friday/Cyber Monday Sale today so you can order these parts and get 15% off and free shipping. If there is anything we can help you out with let us know. BMR full poly-urethane rear cradle bushings (BK024)

11-28-2013, 09:46 AM	#27
caverman Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009 Location: DFW, TX Posts: 7,111	ADM Performance has a solid bushing as well. It hasn't been around as much but looks to be a nice piece and priced decently. Just an option to look into. He quoted me the full cradle bushing plus upper control arm bushings installed for about the price of a set of Pfadt full bushing. http://www.admperformance.com/produc...63&product=258 Although inserts are a much easier install, if I were at your power level I would step up to the full bush. Just go ahead and get it done right the first time. I've been using Pedders cradle inserts for a couple years now and they've worked just fine for me but I'm only at about 415 rwhp. __________________ *-2010 Camaro* 2SS \| M6 \| VR w/White Stripes \| 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow \| LPE 3.91 gears \| ADM tuned \| Halltech w/ADM Scoop \| Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod \| BC Coilovers\| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars \| Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings \| VMax TB \| Morimoto Projectors \| MGW shifter \| Red Calipers Build Journal

11-28-2013, 10:07 AM	#28
VR Baron SoCal Camaro5 Race Team Drives: 2021 Shadow Grey Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SO CAL Posts: 14,288	Yeah at more then 450 hp do full pedders or Whiteline bushing.