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Old 04-01-2015, 09:48 AM   #1
dcmock
 
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Rear cradle bushings?

Ok ive head people talk about replacing the rear cradle bushings before drag racing. What and where are the located. Where can I buy the right ones.
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Old 04-01-2015, 11:18 AM   #2
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They go between your rear frame section and the body. These aren't the differential bushings...but you might as well replace those too. There are 4 mounts and they are a PITA to replace with the cradle (frame) still in the car. If you drop the cradle (frame) and roll it out from under the car, a torch makes short work of them. I have heard of guys doing it easily with everything in the car, but I think that is the exception and not the rule. Age of the car probably plays a roll. Mine weren't budging, so I pulled the whole thing out. I purchased mine from JDP (sponsor on this site).
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Old 04-01-2015, 11:48 AM   #3
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Check these images out. The are labeled "sub frame bushings". Basically, the entire rear suspension and drive train bolts to the rear cradle which is then bolted to the car. They are essentially the foundation of the back end of the car. The stock rubber bushings are very soft and allow for a lot of movement which hurts handling and traction and also consumes energy that should be going to the pavement. If you have any other questions feel free to PM me or give us a call.


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Old 04-01-2015, 12:04 PM   #4
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First suspension mod for drag racing is probably trailing arms then toe rods as they do the most for the least effort and cost. I use BMR pieces for that.

Then the cradle bushings would be next. As stated, they are the bushings that the four bolts go into that hold the entire rear cradle (everything between the rear wheels) in place. I used Prothane because they make a good product and were the least expensive brand name I knew. I agree this is a PITA. They do make inserts you can use instead for quite a bit less that are easier to install, but I only wanted to do it once. Inserts are supposed to be good to 500whp. While the cradle was out, I also put a ZL1 pump in that I picked from somebody on here.

While the cradle was out I also replaced the upper control arm bushings which better controls the UCA's desire to tilt backwards during acceleration. I got those from BMR because they had a package with the UCA bushings and the inner trailing arm bushings.

The last piece, unless you want to go road racing, run 17" wheels, or upgrade to the FE4 suspension, is the diff bushings. They make a tool for it that makes it easier, but I tried to make my own tool and could not get that work for me. Without the tool, the diff bushings are a bit of a PITA too. I really did these because I was taking the diff out to upgrade to 3.91 gears and 1LE axles anyway. I also put ZL1 springs all around since I had it apart.
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Old 04-01-2015, 04:00 PM   #5
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We have several different rear kits and just bushings ,give me a call and will put something together for ya.
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Old 04-01-2015, 06:30 PM   #6
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Wink

Probably not gonna get that serious about replacing these unless everything is already out for something else. I am gonna take the diff out for a 373 gear change soon , so should I replace the diff bushing while its out. Whats the easiest way to get the diff out
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Old 04-01-2015, 08:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcmock View Post
Probably not gonna get that serious about replacing these unless everything is already out for something else. I am gonna take the diff out for a 373 gear change soon , so should I replace the diff bushing while its out. Whats the easiest way to get the diff out
Give me a call we have some new diff bushings that have never been available to the general public. Give me a call and I can walk you through it
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Old 04-01-2015, 08:51 PM   #8
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http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=401940

here is a link to my upgrade

Last edited by ZOOK; 04-05-2015 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcmock View Post
Probably not gonna get that serious about replacing these unless everything is already out for something else. I am gonna take the diff out for a 373 gear change soon , so should I replace the diff bushing while its out. Whats the easiest way to get the diff out
Definitely replace diff bushings while it's out. I think I got Energy Suspension pieces for around $60. Good time for trailing arms and toe rods too (BMRs around $250 on Summit). Honestly, for drag racing at close to stock HP levels, that is probably all you will need.
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Old 04-07-2015, 04:27 AM   #10
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the rear cradle bushing should have been solid from the factory. I have BMR delrin cradle bushing. No noise and they make a big difference.
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Old 04-07-2015, 02:47 PM   #11
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pretty much all the bushings in the rear have voids, particularly the cradle bushings.
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Old 04-07-2015, 09:28 PM   #12
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Why are the factory ones so "bad"?
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Old 04-08-2015, 08:58 AM   #13
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Why are the factory ones so "bad"?
Depends on how you define bad. If you mean softer with more deflection than solid urethane, that is to reduce noise and vibration. The factory bushings use an aluminum hub bonded to rubber wrapped in a housing. There are voids in the rubber that reduce the amount of noise and vibration you get in the cabin. They are also softer for the same reasons. Most people can live with the minor noise and vibration increases that result from using solid bushings, but Chevrolet probably feels it would hurt car sales to use a solid bushing.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:06 AM   #14
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with the factory ones you could feel the cradle twist then the tires would spin and the car would kick out to the pass side. now with the delrin bushing it just goes strait. I do not notice any noise or vibration.
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