08-04-2013, 04:34 PM | #1 |
Drives: 1968 Camaro SS & 2015 GMC Sierra De Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 94
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First Suspension Mods
I looking for the most cost effective suspension mods for the quarter mile. I am in the military so Im on a bit of a budget. I recently added a supercharger and some ET Streets to my Camaro and broke an axle on the first run. I kind of knew it would happen but gave it a shot. That problem is fixed and I'd like to bring down my 60' times. The parts dont have to make the car handle better, but I dont want to make it worse. Before I was able to run about 12.00 to 12.10 with a 60' of 1.8-1.9 with 470rwhp on Nitt0 555rs. I have not been able to run the car since it broke because I deployed two weeks later. I would like to make my next outing when I get back a better one so I'm looking for advice. Everyones help is greatly appreciated.
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Whipple SC, Lingenfelter Heads & Cam, ACT Twin Disc Clutch, Rotofab CAI, JBA 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers & 3" Exhaust, Livernois Motorsports Fuel Pump, DSS 1400Hp Axles
RWHP 660 RWTQ 618 SOLD |
08-04-2013, 04:37 PM | #2 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
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Bushings
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08-04-2013, 04:40 PM | #3 |
Drives: 1968 Camaro SS & 2015 GMC Sierra De Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 94
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Which one's and any brand or type you recomend?
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Whipple SC, Lingenfelter Heads & Cam, ACT Twin Disc Clutch, Rotofab CAI, JBA 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers & 3" Exhaust, Livernois Motorsports Fuel Pump, DSS 1400Hp Axles
RWHP 660 RWTQ 618 SOLD |
08-05-2013, 06:50 AM | #4 |
2013 ZL1
Drives: 2013 ZL1 m6 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Avondale AZ & Indy will always be home
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Pedders and Pfadt are two of the best, but not cheap. If you haven't already, I would suggest reading 5 gen suspension...the book. Link here... http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90270
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08-05-2013, 07:31 AM | #5 |
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Start with Subframe Bushings....that will make a good firm base to start with. If you're looking for good drag performance.....go with solid bushings (no it will not negatively affect your ride comfort). And personally, while you have the subframe lowered....I would change out the upper control arm bushings. JDP Motorsports sells a nice replacement bracket with new bushings already pressed in.
You're choices for the solid Subframe Bushings are PFADT, ADM Performance, and LG Motorsports. http://store.pfadtracing.com/2010-ca...rame-bushings/ http://www.admperformance.com/produc...63&product=258 http://www.lgmotorsports.com/product...oducts_id=2653 |
08-05-2013, 07:51 AM | #6 |
Drives: 1968 Camaro SS & 2015 GMC Sierra De Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 94
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Thanks for the advice, I will definately look into those ones from JDP
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Whipple SC, Lingenfelter Heads & Cam, ACT Twin Disc Clutch, Rotofab CAI, JBA 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers & 3" Exhaust, Livernois Motorsports Fuel Pump, DSS 1400Hp Axles
RWHP 660 RWTQ 618 SOLD |
08-05-2013, 07:59 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
http://www.jdpmotorsports.com/manufa...ss-v8-jdps1001 There is really only one "better" option available (for drag racing, but probably not very "practical" for a daily street driver). I have these on my car.... http://www.farkssupercars.com/?/Bush...maro-bushings/ |
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08-05-2013, 08:03 AM | #8 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
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Not going to recommend a brand as everyone has their own preference and opinion as to what is "best." I personally use Pedders, but like I said; everyone has their own opinion as to what is "the best."
I'd start with subframe inserts and/or replacement bushings (as above posters have mentioned). Then I'd also do the radius rod bushings to increase/tighten up the steering. From there I'd drive the car for a week or two, see how she handles and what your impressions are - then go from there. |
08-05-2013, 08:06 AM | #9 |
Drives: 1968 Camaro SS & 2015 GMC Sierra De Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 94
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The JDP ones would probably be better suited to my needs. Although the car isnt a daily driver it does see the street. I agree about the removing the bushings, from what I have read its not fun.
__________________
Whipple SC, Lingenfelter Heads & Cam, ACT Twin Disc Clutch, Rotofab CAI, JBA 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers & 3" Exhaust, Livernois Motorsports Fuel Pump, DSS 1400Hp Axles
RWHP 660 RWTQ 618 SOLD |
08-05-2013, 08:17 AM | #10 |
Drives: 1968 Camaro SS & 2015 GMC Sierra De Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 94
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Anyone have the ADM subframe bushing installed? They are a lot cheaper and I was wondering how they compare. Pedders does seem to put out a great product and they get brownie points with me for supporting the EOD Wounded Warrior Fund.
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Whipple SC, Lingenfelter Heads & Cam, ACT Twin Disc Clutch, Rotofab CAI, JBA 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers & 3" Exhaust, Livernois Motorsports Fuel Pump, DSS 1400Hp Axles
RWHP 660 RWTQ 618 SOLD |
08-05-2013, 08:31 AM | #11 |
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This is the only thread I can find about the ADM Bushings.....
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...t=ADM+Bushings But nothing about installation or comparison....the picture looks different than what is on their website....??? |
08-05-2013, 08:39 AM | #12 |
Drives: 1968 Camaro SS & 2015 GMC Sierra De Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Camp Lejeune, NC
Posts: 94
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Thanks for the link, it is a diiferent picture. I may give them a shot. I definately will start out with subframe bushings. I dont get back until almost November so it will be a little while before I can report on how I made out.
__________________
Whipple SC, Lingenfelter Heads & Cam, ACT Twin Disc Clutch, Rotofab CAI, JBA 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers & 3" Exhaust, Livernois Motorsports Fuel Pump, DSS 1400Hp Axles
RWHP 660 RWTQ 618 SOLD |
08-05-2013, 08:45 AM | #13 |
With all that power you need bushings all the way around. If you have to do it in parts I would do Subframe and differential first.
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08-05-2013, 09:42 AM | #14 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
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My ADM ones have been sitting in an ever growing pile as I'm deployed too. I didn't see a reason to pay a few hundred extra for a chunk of aluminum machined to the same measurements. I started out with energy suspension complete replacements and they were great too but I'm wanting to remove all give now that I'm using the car more for road racing. They're also dirt cheap relative to other options but you give up some amount as it won't be as stiff as others. But I can't bring myself to spend $600 for some poly.
Definitely do subframe and diff bushings. A drag alignment would help and as long as you don't go too extreme won't impact tire life too much. A stiff rear sway will help too. Going to a 2012+ rear lower arm setup and a take off bar from someone with a 1LE or ZL1 will give you a much stiffer sway for dirt cheap. Aftermarket stuff will be much stiffer but at 4-5x the cost for take off parts. |
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