Gear clunk worse after mods... - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

forklord · 09-14-2014, 10:27 AM

Hey guys,
my gear clunking seemed to dissapear for a while until i installed the MGW shifter, then it came back like a bat out of hell. until the car is warmed up it always clunks, not really a grind, into second at lower rpms/speeds and sometimes into first and third. fourth barely ever. I just did a new clutch, master and slave cylinder as well as pilot bearing, seperated clutch fluid, tick clutch line and its STILL there. could it be due to the shifter install i wonder? im not really sure what to look for....thanks.

*SSE 4 2SS* · 09-14-2014, 02:05 PM

Think how the shifter mounts... The factory shifter has the swivel arms and several soft bushings to isolate sound and vibration. This is part of the reason for the soft sloppy feel in the shifter...

The shifter you installed is stiffer in the mounting and doesn't have as many isolation bushings. This all leads to sound transmission into the passenger compartment.

One of the trade offs of better feel is more noise...

To transmit more power, you stiffen the mounts of the motor and trans... Reduces sloppy movement, but it transmits more sound and vibration...

Same thing with the suspension, if you want better handling, then you give up a soft quiet ride...

The trade offs have to be weighed...

My car is noisy, vibrates, and you feel every nuance and bump in the road surface. I accept that for the performance...

alaskacamaro · 09-14-2014, 04:35 PM

MGW should have supplied you with several extra pieces of dynmat to help reduce the noise vibrations but as stated above, you going to have a little more noise over stock. I don't really notice it unless I am grasping the shifter while cruising. Then again I have a lot more cabin noise now over stock.

Shameless plug. The MGW is one of the best mods I have done and I highly recommend it over a stock shifter, even a 1LE/ZL1 shifter.

*SSE 4 2SS* · 09-14-2014, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alaskacamaro

MGW should have supplied you with several extra pieces of dynmat to help reduce the noise vibrations but as stated above, you going to have a little more noise over stock. I don't really notice it unless I am grasping the shifter while cruising. Then again I have a lot more cabin noise now over stock.

Shameless plug. The MGW is one of the best mods I have done and I highly recommend it over a stock shifter, even a 1LE/ZL1 shifter.

Agree 100 percent, the MGW far surpasses all the others on the market that I've seen or used.

The only reason I don't still use one is my transmission change did away with the external linkage...

forklord · 09-14-2014, 06:23 PM

Sooooo ....this is normal? Like it almost fights to get in second. At least it doesnt grind anymore lol

alaskacamaro · 09-14-2014, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by forklord

Sooooo ....this is normal? Like it almost fights to get in second. At least it doesnt grind anymore lol

The shifter should work better after a break-in period of a few hundred miles (at least for me). Fighting to get into second is probably because the method you have been used to with the stock shifter having a lot more play than the MGW. I did the same thing until I learned how the MGW shifts. Are you using the stock shifter knob still or did you buy a knob from MGW? I put the shifter knob (MGW shifter) in the center of my palm and pulled directly down from 1st and that seemed to help with finding 2nd until it broke in better.

*SSE 4 2SS* · 09-15-2014, 12:45 AM

Agreed the shifter will loosen up with a bit of time and usage... It's designed to be overly tight at first...

As Alaska said... Gripping the shifter on top is bad form... Though we all did that at one point... I watched a video and changed my style and haven't missed a shift in a long time...

Top row gears to bottom row shifts... 1-2, 3-4...Hand sideways like your going to shake hands, palm to the shifter, fingers wrap around it... Pull towards you...

Bottom row to top row shifts, hand put flat like you are stopping yourself from falling, palm centered on the shifter, fingers loosely over the top, and push away from you... The shifter will find the right gate...

The only variance is if you are shifting hard into 5th gear as I do in mile events... Then you have to consciously push over to the right to find the gate but it's not hard... It slides right on in...

Another thing about the "clunk" you describe, this is a positive indication you are in the gear selected.., it will soften over time to move of a click click... You won't so much hear it as feel it...

You will probably continue to hear a bit more trans and drive line noise, that's the trade off for better functioning parts...

09-14-2014, 10:27 AM	#1
forklord Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 800	Gear clunk worse after mods... Hey guys, my gear clunking seemed to dissapear for a while until i installed the MGW shifter, then it came back like a bat out of hell. until the car is warmed up it always clunks, not really a grind, into second at lower rpms/speeds and sometimes into first and third. fourth barely ever. I just did a new clutch, master and slave cylinder as well as pilot bearing, seperated clutch fluid, tick clutch line and its STILL there. could it be due to the shifter install i wonder? im not really sure what to look for....thanks. __________________ 2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad

09-14-2014, 02:05 PM	#2
SSE 4 2SS Boosted Moderator Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Marion Tx Posts: 15,492	Think how the shifter mounts... The factory shifter has the swivel arms and several soft bushings to isolate sound and vibration. This is part of the reason for the soft sloppy feel in the shifter... The shifter you installed is stiffer in the mounting and doesn't have as many isolation bushings. This all leads to sound transmission into the passenger compartment. One of the trade offs of better feel is more noise... To transmit more power, you stiffen the mounts of the motor and trans... Reduces sloppy movement, but it transmits more sound and vibration... Same thing with the suspension, if you want better handling, then you give up a soft quiet ride... The trade offs have to be weighed... My car is noisy, vibrates, and you feel every nuance and bump in the road surface. I accept that for the performance... __________________ If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...

09-14-2014, 06:23 PM	#5
forklord Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Canada Posts: 800	Sooooo ....this is normal? Like it almost fights to get in second. At least it doesnt grind anymore lol __________________ 2010 2SS- 562whp/634wtq 12 psi on3 turbo 78mm magnum /w aem truboost, pat g cam, Kooks 3" catback, Factory Rep 41s with 285/315 20" michelin PSS, Snow Meth, Hex Hood Vents, ZL1 FP & ADM FPCM /w JMS BAP, ID 850s, DSS lvl 4 axles & aluminum 1 piece D/S, Total Pro BMR bushings, fe4 sways, toe rods & trailing arms, Prothane engine mounts, MGW shifter, eaton true trac, mantic 9000 clutch, idealg master cylinder, JDP clutch oil reservoir, ram clutch pedal adjust, Tick clutch & bleed lines, Dewitts Rad

09-15-2014, 12:45 AM	#7
SSE 4 2SS Boosted Moderator Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Marion Tx Posts: 15,492	Agreed the shifter will loosen up with a bit of time and usage... It's designed to be overly tight at first... As Alaska said... Gripping the shifter on top is bad form... Though we all did that at one point... I watched a video and changed my style and haven't missed a shift in a long time... Top row gears to bottom row shifts... 1-2, 3-4...Hand sideways like your going to shake hands, palm to the shifter, fingers wrap around it... Pull towards you... Bottom row to top row shifts, hand put flat like you are stopping yourself from falling, palm centered on the shifter, fingers loosely over the top, and push away from you... The shifter will find the right gate... The only variance is if you are shifting hard into 5th gear as I do in mile events... Then you have to consciously push over to the right to find the gate but it's not hard... It slides right on in... Another thing about the "clunk" you describe, this is a positive indication you are in the gear selected.., it will soften over time to move of a click click... You won't so much hear it as feel it... You will probably continue to hear a bit more trans and drive line noise, that's the trade off for better functioning parts... __________________ If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough...

09-14-2014, 04:35 PM	#3
alaskacamaro Drives: 2012 2SS 45TH Anniversary Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Kentucky Posts: 720	MGW should have supplied you with several extra pieces of dynmat to help reduce the noise vibrations but as stated above, you going to have a little more noise over stock. I don't really notice it unless I am grasping the shifter while cruising. Then again I have a lot more cabin noise now over stock. Shameless plug. The MGW is one of the best mods I have done and I highly recommend it over a stock shifter, even a 1LE/ZL1 shifter.