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Old 03-19-2014, 10:19 AM   #1
Dfault

 
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3rd set of rotos/pads and still issues

I have squeal and it's not your typical slow stop squeal most of you experience. This is, straight up horrible squeal that makes you want to put a screw into your ears to stop hearing, squeal.

I don't think the rotors are supposed to look like this.



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Old 03-19-2014, 11:37 AM   #2
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You can have a squeal from the surface of the rotor itself, the pads or the hardware or a mixture of those. New hardware that is lubed, quality pads that are beveled, rotors with a nondirectional finish is about all you can do. The rotors do look a little slick but do still have a touch of nondirectional still left in the close up.
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:43 AM   #3
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Should I go ahead and have the rotors turned?
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Old 03-19-2014, 03:11 PM   #4
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No, machining rotors is only needed if they are out of spec on run out. The surface texture is what is in question once the run out has been measured and is within tolerance. What I do is use a diegrinder and put a 3M wheel on it and buff the rotor surface area and make a nondirectional surface into the rotor. Problem about that is it will eventually buff slick by the pad but hopefully you bed enough pad material into the rotor that it doesn't create unwanted harmonics.
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Old 03-19-2014, 03:18 PM   #5
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sounds like there not bedding them properly...have they told you that they do that?
cuz they need to if they havent
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Old 03-21-2014, 06:48 PM   #6
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I had a shop tell me that they believe it's the calipers since my rotors have heat streaks where they are constantly heating up unevenly. What do yall think? How would I go about finding out if my calipers need replacing without throwing unnecessary money at my car?
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Old 03-21-2014, 07:02 PM   #7
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Jack the car up and roll test each wheel and see how much drag each has. If there is a drag one one then you need to see if its the caliper or the hose or something on up stream.
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Old 03-21-2014, 08:47 PM   #8
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I'll give that a shot. But wouldn't calipers be under warranty as hardware failure before 5 years and 100k?
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:12 AM   #9
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Not sure. Doubt it unless you have extended warranty.
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Retired wanna be cylinder head porter
2015 2SS 1LE Clutch reservoir, Vararam DRX, ported TB, TSP 2" headers, MGW shifter
Totalled:
2010 1SS Wilkes Performance/Eagle 416 shortblock, TSP custom valvetrain, PRC 260 heads, Edelbrock Pro Flo 102, th400 swap, 8" PTC 5500 stall= 535/435 at the wheels tuned Gen 3 Performance and Dyno 10.97 @ 124 full weight in 3100 DA CamaroFest X
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Old 03-22-2014, 09:52 PM   #10
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I just really want a sure answer on what the problem is. I just hope that the dealer won't charge me too much just to see what's wrong with the car. I don't want to get rid of my 2010 because of a few things that it doesn't have that make me want to keep it longer.

If it comes down to it being too expensive to fix the brake issues, I'll just put new rotors and pads and trade her in and get a new 2014 and put the 2010 steering wheel on it.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:56 AM   #11
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im going thru the ish my barkes sounds like bus. loud as hell
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:21 AM   #12
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Good advice from Bo
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