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02-27-2024, 04:52 AM
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#29 | |
 
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS AGM Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: WNY
Posts: 733
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2013 2SS GPI built & tuned 415, spec'd by Andrew Cammer. GPI ported intake/tb/heads, Tooley springs, CHE trunnions, Callies rotating assembly, Diamond pistons, GPI SS3 VVT, ATI 10% ud damper, Circle D 3800, Kooks ceramic coated lt's with green cats, Mishimoto rad & oil cooler, Derale trans cooler, Holley efi rails.
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02-27-2024, 06:02 AM
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#30 | |
 
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS , 2011 Colorado LS1 Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 827
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This is an outstanding thing that you are doing for him. Very commendable.  This is a great build thread! I love the direction this is going.
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02-27-2024, 08:16 AM
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#31 | |
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So before I post more progress from yesterday, I will digress a bit and go a little sideways with some of my other car build details and a few Pic's. If you are a car lover as I am, you should like this stuff. Briefly, I moved last year, smaller house, more privacy, and built a 30x50 "Barn", insulated, paneled, Large TV, and a 7.1.6 Atmos surround system. Gotta have jams when wrenching, and keep a Broom handy for the occasional Air Guitar Riff.  It was my retirement dream to have the space to build cars, and not stumble around in a 2 car garage anymore, and have one Hot Rod always in paid storage. First, the Template for this Camaro Conversion build - my Bandit. Next post will be the '73 Camaro so as to not choke on the upload. Yeah - this is a CAMARO Forum, but the Bandit fits in here since the Camaro Conversion and Mods is taking it's design cue's from it. This may age me a bit, but I ordered this car (47) Years ago from Art Moran Pontiac. Checked off about everything on the option list. Managed to keep it all these years, like a beloved child. Alas - no "T" Tops, as when I was looking at the cars at the dealer, it was raining, and the Hurst equipped cars were all leaking. So no crap Hurst Tops, and little did I know that made the car more rare at one of only (384) SE's with the true 400 Pontiac and 4sp. I was a Hot Rodder before I had my DL, and we always Modded our Cars. The Bandit did not escape this, and maybe not a good thing, although the exterior is pretty much stock looking and did not want to mess with that part. Don't care as I will never sell it. At that time I interfaced with Herb Adams of VSE, Nunzi Romano, and the Boys at HO Enterprises. Lot's of their stuff on the Bandit, and will not go into detail here. I finally bought the high end snowflake wheels from Year One, and the gold paint Sucked, as it was dull. So grew a even bigger set, and taped them, sanded the paint, resprayed with Snowflake Gold, and Cleared them with Alsa Gold Pearl. They are stunning. By now maybe the readership probably knows I like Bling, that may be somewhat evident in the Bandits Pics here. And that is my other Camaro in one of the Pics, "The Beast", parked next to her at a Car Show, that is my Go Fast Car. The Bandit - She is a show stopper at the Car Shows, and I have a sea of Trophies. |
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02-27-2024, 08:36 AM
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#32 |
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Then the 1973 Camaro.
Man, I loved that car, wanted to keep it, but had no room. Bought it as a wreck eons ago, the owner broke a axle and tore up the Rear 1/4. It sat in my Garage forever, and finally started working on it after I finished my "other" Camaro, the Whipple Blown "Beast". As I said, that Camaro is my other Build Thread. So given that the exterior was crap, I sawed it up, and put Flares, VFN Racing Fiberglass Hood, Fenders, front Fascia with 70's Vintage IROC Splitter grafted on it, and even the Doors are glass. Lots of Bracing to provide structure. You could hold the panels up with a finger and a thumb - not exactly a safe car in a crash. Working with Fiberglass is nasty, you gotta cover up or you will feel like you went a few rounds with a Porcupine. As my Brother found out 2 weeks after I sold it to him. Found some ULTRA rare Indy Champ 500's with the spinner knockoffs, and shoe'd them with the biggest Mickey T's I could fit. The Paint was inspired by the 70's Baldwin Motion Cars, with my take on it. After ENDLESS body work, I used $$$$ Radiance Lacquer which I had purchased back when I got the car. Lacquer sprays easy, sands easy, and is forgiving. But it is not exactly durable like the Urethanes. First painted the entire car Silver Basecoat with Flake, and then the Radiance is a Tint you spray until you get the desired color. I liked the Blue, which I mixed with Candy Concentrate, sprayed with more Flake and Alsa Blue and Violet Crystal Pearls. Alsa Corp has the best high end additives IMO. I looked like a Glitter Queen after each spray session. Finally bury all that rough texture from the Flake in many coats of Clear. Sand it smooth and polish. It is wild in the sun, and definitely smacks of the 70's Era vintage. Power was a Built SBC and 350 Tranny, 4:10 gears - plenty of power as the car was super light. I wanna build another one, but man they are expensive in any shape. Ok , that is enough on the other stuff for now. Last edited by hesster; 02-27-2024 at 08:46 AM. |
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02-27-2024, 09:34 AM
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#33 |
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Back to the Project.
Got the Shaker mounted to the Engine Cover per the instructions, was a little stuck on how the Well Cage Nuts secured it, but figured it out. Installed it on the Engine, and it sits nicely. Will assess if the height is correct, as I want it to sit up through the hood as much as possible, and will shim it up if necessary. Then back to noodling how to plumb the scoop to the Air Box. Grabbed a 4" piece of Heater Duct, and bent it around to get a idea of clearances. Scribed a cutout on the Air Box as reference. The stupid + Battery Post is in the way, so that is easily bent somewhat to get out of the way. That post is stupid, and needs to be sano to ensure minimal voltage/amperage loss. That and add more Grounds to avoid hot start issues. The A/C line will be heat wrapped since it needs to be nudged closer to the Exhaust Manifold. So this looks do-able with a few 4" x 45 deg silicone Turbo Hoses and some ovalized Aluminum Tube. I have a call into my Tuner, Mr. Ted Jannetty of Janetty Racing, to get his take on this idea as it relates to air flow and avoiding throwing a code. He is a seasoned Pro, and has immense talent in a area I am Clueless - tuning. Check out his Web Site. Again, the final restriction is the TB itself at 90mm, or 3.5". As long as any feed plumbing is not overly restrictive, it should work IMO, but we will see. Other options are to assess if a Roto Fab or CAI Box allows easier plumbing, but I will try the Stock Box Mod first and save a $$Buck. Then steamed off the Stripes on the Deck Lid. The Wife's clothes steamer worked like a charm. I did learn that the hotter the better, as you want to not leave any of the adhesive backing on the DL, which I did in a few areas. Total PIA to remove it, took a non scratch Scotch Brite and Mineral Spirits and a hour of rubbing to get it off. Now need to see if I can save the Paint, or just decide to repaint it. |
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02-27-2024, 12:03 PM
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#34 |
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Anthony S
Drives: 2011 chevrolet camaro 2ss/rs Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Chiefland, FL
Posts: 842
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The steamer works like a charm! Just gotta be slow and patient.
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Follow me on instagram @The_bald_eagle_machine
https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=600181 Mods: Texas Speed 2 inch headers, high flow cats, and X-pipe. Custom mid-pipe, Borla Xr1 mufflers. Torqstorm Supercharger, 3.1" pulley, ZL1 fuel pump. MGW Shifter, Mcleod RST clutch, Tick master cylinder and Tick Billet bushing reinforced slave cylinder. DSS One-piece 3.5" Driveshaft, Metco Driveshaft safety loop, BCRacing Coilovers. BMR Poly Diff bushings, Poly Rear cradle bushings, Sub-frame connectors, Lower control arms, camber arms, and toe links. |
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02-27-2024, 03:00 PM
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#35 | |
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Boosted Moderator
Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Marion Tx
Posts: 15,495
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I’m just excited you are going to use the spoiler… The three piece is essential to the early Camaros and Firebirds, especially the Z-28’s and Trans Ams…
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough... |
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02-27-2024, 03:54 PM
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#36 | |
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Just totally stoked to put the piece on this car. |
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02-27-2024, 04:12 PM
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#37 | |
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Boosted Moderator
Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Marion Tx
Posts: 15,495
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Ok, as is… please remember my car was fast, and looked good from 30 feet… Pay and spray car washes and McGuires detail spray, or whatever was handy… The middle piece mounts to the factory holes in the deck lid. The wire hanging off plugs into the factory harness if memory serves. There is a grommet or two for passing it in/around the lid. The side pieces we need to see if GM can provide the template for them… I recommend new foam tape pieces prior to install, to protect the quarter paint… Mine were on and off at least twice a year when I went to race events… You’ll see the foam I’m talking about and probably have more experience than I do… A few of the studs have nuts on them so you’ll be able to match them… Have fun standing on your head getting the wings pieces on… I cussed them at least twice ca year, for the above reason… lol…
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough... |
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02-27-2024, 05:12 PM
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#38 |
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That Sir, is a piece of art.
Why remove it for Racing - did it add too much Drag, or what? Note how well it approximates the 70's vintage spoilers, the only difference is the end pieces on the TA are exended further down due to of course the body profile. Sand, BC with GM Onyx Black, CC, stripe it, add the Trans Am decal, and mount it. It is perfect for the "Trans Am" decal, as it is more vertical and in your face. |
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02-27-2024, 05:48 PM
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#39 |
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Boosted Moderator
Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Marion Tx
Posts: 15,495
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You might have to use a smaller font for “Trans Am” and do it on the vertical face, below the brake light…
As for removing it, I couldn’t find any documentation or answers to the “test” speed of the spoiler. As the 5th Gen SS is “governor” limited to 155, I figured that was a limit in my book… Since that’s the lower middle end of third gear in my car… I would hate to be cooking along in 4th gear at 220 mph bout to shift into 5th and stand on it and have the middle piece break off, and unload what, in excess of a thousand lbs of down force… or lose a side piece and have the car turn 90° into the remaining wing piece due to differential forces… I ain’t got a rudder pedal… I got a turn thingy, a loud pedal and a chicken pedal… lol… I did a bunch of studying and we did a bit of on site real world testing and without moving the blade back about two feet, or up some, it wasn’t doing much but it was squatting the stance a bit… not much… I actually built a high strake spoiler on a loose deck lid that was extended back about two feet with an adjustable variable height wicker bill… we intended to change the entire de k lid for racing… never got that far… We were about to go into testing it with 4 corner ride height sensors when I had my heart attack and wasn’t able to race anymore… I eventually sold the car but kept bit and pieces that were redundant or stand alone… Now I’m paying one of them forward and happy to do so… So the short answer, is after much reading and study, as well as seat of the pants feel, we put the factory lip spoiler on when racing and taped up the holes on the quarter… 225 plus mph and always, well almost always felt planted and stable… We also built a belly pan, boxed in the rear around the exhaust, installed a big splitter/air dam at the front and removed the hood skirt rubber trim at the top of the firewall, to let out the heat and much of the air flow coming in the grill… Edit: Do you mind if I think about it again, if I remove the SS emblem… A friend gave that to me and it won’t fit in a TA…
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If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough... |
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02-27-2024, 06:53 PM
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#40 |
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By all means, keep the SS badge. Wall art. Already have one I removed from my Deck Lid. Like the racing input, whatever engine setup you had must have been a serious Mill.
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02-27-2024, 07:14 PM
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#41 | |
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Boosted Moderator
Drives: Bone Stock LS3 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Marion Tx
Posts: 15,495
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Quote:
__________________
If the car feels like it is on rails, you are probably driving too slow. -Ross Bentley
Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall. Torque is how far you take the wall with you. “If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.” Mario Andretti If you can turn, you ain't going fast enough... |
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02-28-2024, 10:48 AM
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#42 |
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Worked the Deck Lid yesterday to see how bad it got roughed up in removing the Stripes.
The DL def was a little worse for wear since I was scrubbing the crap out of it with Scotch Brite and Mineral Spirits, and already had some surface scratch's. After removing the Stripes, I noticed they left a witness mark after clinging to the Paint for 14 years, and you can clearly see where they were, esp on a Black Car. The vertical Part of the DL, however, looked really good already. So decided WTH, sand it with 2000 grit and if I go too deep then repaint it. So hit it hard until I could see the stripe marks diminish, and you know when to stop when you break through the factory Orange Peel. At that point if any scratch's remain, then it get's touchy not to break into the BC. In the pics, I show the half that was wet sanded, then buffed a number of passes with Meguiars Heavy Cut and a foam pad. Looked great and shiny in the sun, the last pic is a straight down shot, and it looks like a mirror and perfect reflection. Figured that would be all that was needed, and just final Buff it. Wrong... . Took it into the Garage under the bank of 20000 lumens LED's and Oh Crap, got alot more work to do, cause there were many sand scratch's left. Given that I will work it until it is either perfect, or Prime, BC, CC, and polish. It has to be just right for that Dove Tail addition. |
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