A new engine for my 2011 RS

[Hayseed4ever]

Greetings everyone, I have long been looking at a Camaro, but could never justify getting one before this year. What really pushed me over the edge was the inability to get parts for my daily driver, a black 94 Ford Probe GT. She was a great introduction to a low end performance car, and since I bought it for $400 10 years ago, I am not disappointed with it. As the list of things that needed fixing kept mounting, speedometer sporadically working, CV joints, brakes, clutch, oil leak, burning oil when going up inclines, ect. I made the choice to get Camaro. This was partly because they look great, partly because I have always wanted one, and partly because I love the feeling of driving a manual transmission and going fast on back roads. So the hunt began, I started thinking about buying a roller that needed a new engine or something like that to save some money and maybe get a little better car that way, but decided against it because I didn’t want to take on a project like that at that point. I have done full body off restorations and am pretty mechanical so the work didn’t phase me. The most recent restoration is a 1972 Chevy C20 pickup truck. So after looking for a while, I finally found one that looked good, ran and had reasonable miles (90,000) for a 2011. It had everything I was looking for a V6, RS package, leather seats, sun roof (since T-Tops aren’t available anymore), standard transmission, and it was black. After a short test drive where everything seemed in order, I bought it and drove it home from the used car dealership.

Within about 2 weeks as I was driving it home after Labor Day, the engine started to miss, and struggle going up a hill and then it just died, and I couldn’t get it to turn over again. So there I was broke down in the newest car I ever owned, with the least amount of miles on it, and in an isolated area with almost no cell service. It was also the first time I had to use AAA towing. I had them take it to my local Chevy dealer hoping that it would be something easy like an ignition control module or some other electronic part. Alas, after briefly looking at it, they told me it was a bearing that went out and that the engine needed to be replaced. So at this point I was just a little upset, and talked with the place I bought it from. They had just done an oil change on the car, and I am sure they must have seen something in the oil, because they refused to sell me a warranty on the car when I bought it. After a lot of back and forth, they finally agreed to put a used engine in it with a 6 month warranty if I paid half of the cost, about $2k. By this time I had done my research on replacement engines and found that for about $4k, I could get a new long block with 3 year 100,000 mile warranty direct from Premier Powertrain. So I decided to take their $2k, and put that towards buying a new engine and install it myself.

As it is now December, I am getting ready to finally start on the project. I have the engine, and am looking at other items that I should/need to do while I have the engine out. Obviously I am putting in a new water pump, thermostat, and spark plugs in. I figure I may as well do the clutch while the engine is out and I don’t know how many miles are on it for sure, engine mounts, and maybe replace some of the bushings with BMR Poly ones to tighten some of the suspension, new slave cylinder, and maybe separate the slave cylinder reservoir during the process. This car is going to be a daily driver, but I still want to be able to have a little fun with it now and again, so I don’t want to go crazy overboard. I also can’t modify the engine till the warranty expires unless I want to void it. I am considering doing a SPEC stage 1 clutch with an aluminum flywheel instead of the dual mass stock one. What thoughts does everyone have on the clutch and on other things I should look at or do at this mileage and with the engine being replaced? I haven’t driven it enough to know if the shocks need replacing, but my guess is that will be a spring/summer project.

[Machh5]

Are you sure you bought a NEW engine and not a rebuilt or re-manufactured engine? I didn't think any new LLT engines were available. I would replace all the injectors with NEW GM injectors (don't cheap out using after market replacement junk) along with spark plugs fluids including the trans power steering differential. Keep in mind these engines use oil and if you are not checking it once a week and keeping it full you are just asking for a bearing failure. Good Luck

[Hayseed4ever]

Thanks for the thoughts. I rechecked with premier power train, and it is a remaned engine using only GM parts. Closest thing I can get to new with 0 miles. I think the warranty is pretty good too since I have the no fault option with it. Basically if I screw something up on the install I can get a new motor. I already have new plugs and a list of the fluids I am going to change. I was thinking valvoline since I am kind of partial to them. I will have to look at the price of the injections but not a bad idea. As for the oil, I am pretty religious on that since my last car leaked oil for many years, seemed like I was always buying it by the case, and started to consider buying it by the drum.

[Aqua Blue RS/SS]

Good luck on your swap. You’ve got good taste in trucks, I’m partial though, I’ve got two 67-72’s. 69 K10 factory short bed, and my 72 K20 Cheyenne.

[Machh5]

I've had very good luck with Pennzoil Plat 5-30 and I always run 1 qt over. Starting fresh with new injectors then using a cleaner like Techron every 3-4k just before you change the oil will make your life with this Camaro so much easier. The injectors on a 90k direct injected engine that were not properly maintained are going to make your life miserable. I also use 3 ozs of Lucas Fuel treatment EVERY time I fill up. My car has over 100k on it and runs like new. Can't argue with that. I only run premium fuel, you will too if you want lots of trouble free miles no matter what anyone tells you. Also be sure to replace the spark plugs ever 50k, your bank account will thank you.These engines are Hi Performance on the edge, to get over 300hp from 220ci requires ALOT of good maintenance if you want longevity. Also check the air cleaner lid to box sealing area. On mine when I ported the throttle body I noticed many small scratches in the bore. After carefully looking for any air intake leaks that dirt could get in I found the lid and air box wasn't completely flat in places and was letting small pieces of road dirt into the intake. This over time will ruin a direct injected engine quickly. Not only did I fix the lid so it seals good but I use grease to seal the lid to the body. Good Luck with everything, If you need any help feel free to ask .

[wasthatacop?]

Maybe replace the fuel tails too. My crate engine didn't come with fuel tails.

[Hayseed4ever]

Well, I got a good start on removing the engine this weekend. I think I got everything removed, but it still seems stuck on the transmission at the bell housing. I have the cats disconnected from the manifolds, the radiator out, the wiring harness disconnected, fuels lines, ect. I have the engine hoist and leveler attached, and can get it to clear the mounting bolts, and when i give it a tug, it just won't separate. I think i got all of the bell housing bolts out including the one on the passenger side that faces the opposite way from the others. Does anyone heave any idea what I am missing?

[Hayseed4ever]

Finally figured out why I couldn't separate the engine and transmission. There was one bolt hidden behind the engine coolant lines. That engineering still baffles me. Why design something where you can't do service without first draining the coolant? I am including a picture of the bolt location in the event it helps someone else out.

[Hayseed4ever]

Lets see if this picture shows.

[Hayseed4ever]

Got the pictures figured out.

[Hayseed4ever]

As I have been disassembling the old engine I took a look at the filter, and there are definitely metal shavings in it. I will take the oil pan off tomorrow and see what it shows. As for the injectors, they showed a lot of black deposits, I suppose that is from pre-ignition or something.suppose I should replace them while I have everything apart. Also going to do a new power steering pump while the system is off and drained as well as a new idler pulley. Any thoughts on other things to look at?

[Hayseed4ever]

One last thought for the day, as everything is going to be all cleaned, if I want to paint it, now would probably be a good time. has anyone done this before? is it a good idea for our cars? the one on my 72 chevy engine seems to hold up well, but it is a cast iron 350, not an aluminum block. Any thoughts examples of good colors for the engine?

[0stones0]

Here is some pertinent info on aluminum block painting.

[Hayseed4ever]

Well, it has been a lot of work, but I finally got the engine back together despite taking the timing cover off several times because I forgot to transfer 2 mounting studs above the crank. I got everything in the car, fluids changed, and just getting ready to hook up the stock exhaust. The only problem is that i cant get it to light up correctly. The drivers side cat is very close to the frame about 1/2 inch, while the passenger side is a little bit further away maybe 1 inch or so. The drivers side cat and exhaust line up pretty well, but there is a 1/2 inch gap between the passenger side one. The passenger side also seems to be a bit lower than the drivers side. I did not take off the rear exhaust, just kind of left it hanging by the back rubber mounts as i did the engine work. Any thoughts? This has been driving me crazy for a couple of weeks now especially since i am so close to finishing the project.