12-19-2011, 04:54 PM | #15 | |
Drives: Camaro Justice Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Virginia
Posts: 20,174
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Quote:
GREAT POSTS!!!! |
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12-19-2011, 05:01 PM | #16 |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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STEP EIGHT
Pre-load the pads into the caliper (if you have enough lube on there, they should stick in place) and slide the caliper over the rotor.
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
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12-19-2011, 05:05 PM | #17 |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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STEP NINE
Line up the mounting holes, and use a reliable torque wrench to tighten your new bolts to 30 ft-lbs (33 for the fronts).
Next use a braker-bar (you're gonna' need it) to torque each bolt another 90 degrees (torque-to-yield specs per GM). This is easily measured if you start with your bar at the vertical and pull to the horizontal, or vice-versa. Now would be a good time to enjoy another frosty brew.
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
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12-19-2011, 05:13 PM | #18 |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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STEP TEN
Now set your beer down and reinstall the spring and pins.
Hammer the lower pin into place, and slide the lower end of the spring behind it. Next, depress the upper end of the spring with your hand to keep the tension off the upper pin until you work it into the hole on the outboard side of the caliper. Once it's in the hole, hammer it until you detect a change in the sound from the hammer (this is how you know it's properly seated).
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
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12-19-2011, 05:21 PM | #19 |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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STEP ELEVEN
Mount the wheel and torque the lug nuts to 140 ft-lbs.
When you do this on the fronts, it will be necessary to lower the wheels to the deck, or have someone hold their foot on the brake pedal. Either way, you'll need to complete the brake job on both sides first.
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
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12-19-2011, 05:33 PM | #20 |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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STEP TWELVE
Lift the differential enough to remove your jack stands. Don't forget your hockey pucks or they'll go flying across the autocross course (trust me on this one ).
Lower the rear wheels and move to the fronts. You may need a low profile jack to reach the forward cross-member, which is a good place to lift the vehicle. There are some slots on the aft cross-member (just inboard of the sub-frame rails). These make a convenient place to install your homemade jackstand pads.
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
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12-19-2011, 05:37 PM | #21 | |
Drives: 11 2SS/RS M6 vert Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: NSB, FL
Posts: 705
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Quote:
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LSA supercharger, Borla S-Type cat back, BMR/ Pedders Suspension, Kooks stepped LT's, GM 3.91, and RDP tune.
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12-19-2011, 05:43 PM | #22 |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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STEP THIRTEEN
Now repeat the same drill you did on the rear brakes.
NOTE: You will need to turn the wheel (this can be done with the pump static as long as you turn the ignition key to unlock the steering) all the way inboard to facilitate pulling your braker-bar through 90 degrees. This will also make the caliper more accessible. EDIT: See those weights GM installed on the caliper? Get rid of 'em. If they worked, you wouldn't be looking at this thread.
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
Last edited by kmcd; 12-19-2011 at 06:07 PM. |
12-19-2011, 05:51 PM | #23 |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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STEP FOURTEEN
Enjoy your non-squealing brakes. I know JusticePete is very knowledgeable about this stuff, and I certainly value his comments, but my fix has lasted 18,000 hard miles, and I tried everything under the sun to resolve this issue. I changed rotors and pads. I removed weights. I added weights. This was the only fix that actually cured the problem.
I hope it works for you as well.
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
Last edited by kmcd; 12-19-2011 at 07:47 PM. |
12-19-2011, 06:38 PM | #24 | |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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Quote:
Sorry, stieger. I know all about your squealing brakes ordeal, but I think you had already traded your car in before I did this.
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
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12-19-2011, 06:58 PM | #25 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
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Oh no I'm not complaining. Those squealing brakes got me a new 2011 Camaro. I just think it's funny that Chevrolet can't figure out a $30 fix.
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12-19-2011, 07:50 PM | #26 |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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I'm open to suggestions as well.
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
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12-19-2011, 08:06 PM | #27 |
Drives: camaro Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Uranus
Posts: 127
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Make sure to open the bleeder when compressing the caliper or else you are pushing the nasty brake fluid back into the master..
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12-19-2011, 08:16 PM | #28 |
knows 2 facts about ducks
Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The HMS Invincible
Posts: 25,072
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That'd be Gun Oil. It's a silicon based lube
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