Car starting issue - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Sgt_Snuffy · 01-09-2015, 01:24 PM

Ok I'm throwing out a Hail Mary here. I'm military stationed in Germany and am about to ship my 2010 1SS/RS home. The problem is that it now doesn't want to start.

It doesn't try to crank most of the time. It will after many attempts starts and runs like normal but when I shut it down I get the same problem all over again. The car doesn't die while driving. I do have a CEL which is Clutch Pedal Position sensor low voltage. I've put a multimeter on the posts while trying to start. There's no appreciable change in voltage.

I am supposed to put this car on a boat next week and right now I can't keep it running. I am looking for anything to get this car home. I've almost got the sensor out so if I can fool the car into starting, I'm all for it. Any help would be appreciated.

TommyTheCat · 01-09-2015, 01:28 PM

The car is not cranking because the car thinks the clutch pedal is not being pushed down properly. Just replace the clutch pedal position sensor

Sgt_Snuffy · 01-09-2015, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TommyTheCat

The car is not cranking because the car thinks the clutch pedal is not being pushed down properly. Just replace the clutch pedal position sensor

Is there a way to make it think I'm pushing the clutch in?

TommyTheCat · 01-09-2015, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sgt_Snuffy

Is there a way to make it think I'm pushing the clutch in?

I suppose to you could input your own voltage, but I don't know whether that would affect drivability at all. It needs to be fixed eventually either way, might as well fix it right the first time. You can add a switch the way old Toyota & Nissan trucks used to, where you can hold a button which makes the car think the clutch is in and start that way so long as you're careful. Though I don't know if this car is looking for 0 volts or 5 volts or whatever when the pedal is in, I'd have to go out and test mine

Can you provide the actual code

Sgt_Snuffy · 01-09-2015, 01:44 PM

The sensor is a nightmare to get to so I wouldn't expect you to go through that. I have googled around a bit and believe it's a potentiometer and the ECM is looking for <1.5V in order for it to crank.

TommyTheCat · 01-09-2015, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sgt_Snuffy

The sensor is a nightmare to get to so I wouldn't expect you to go through that. I have googled around a bit and believe it's a potentiometer and the ECM is looking for <1.5V in order for it to crank.

ALLDATA says it only takes .6 hours to replace, which usually means 20 minutes to replace and probably less to just pinch a wire. Sure you're looking at the right sensor?

There may be a learn procedure after replacing it. I can't really tell from the picture if it's adjustable or not, it could always be a loose adjustment causing the problem.

If it looks adjustable, keep the handbrake on and transmission in neutral while you either crank it or hook up a remote starter and hold the pedal down with a depressor or something then keep adjusting it until it cranks when it should.

TommyTheCat · 01-09-2015, 06:16 PM

Here's some programming instructions, I didn't actually read them through so good luck.

Both the tremec and aisin trannies show the same instructions

also, it's always possible you have a wiring problem but it's less likely
here is the part number in case you're having trouble, this is what ALLDATA calls for which should be OEM. list price should be around $20 so not too bad. could also be available aftermarket
20995840
good luck

Sgt_Snuffy · 01-10-2015, 09:37 AM

Yeah I got the right sensor. Maybe I just missed a step and made it alot harder on myself.

I did get the sensor out and checked with a multimeter It's reading between 1k and 4k ohms. Tried starting the car with/without it in and no luck. I then started reading up on some TSBs and found one very similar to my problem. It called for checked the ground to the ECM. So I pulled and cleaned every ground I could find around the ECM even the one under the heat shield. No luck after that. Finally I got back and started messing with the sensor while turning the key. It takes a few tries but there seems to be a sweet spot.

Now it seems I can bypass to sensor all together by either taping it in place at that sweet spot or trying to find the right resistor to put in line.

Sgt_Snuffy · 01-10-2015, 09:39 AM

And I tried to do the CPP learn procedure mentioned in your post but it seems that the scan tool I had wasn't capable of it.

And the code was P0807 and later swapped to P0808 after the grounding stuff.

TommyTheCat · 01-12-2015, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sgt_Snuffy

And I tried to do the CPP learn procedure mentioned in your post but it seems that the scan tool I had wasn't capable of it.

And the code was P0807 and later swapped to P0808 after the grounding stuff.

You'll need something better than a $100 scanner from pepboys. Have a mechanic or dealer do that for you

01-09-2015, 01:24 PM	#1
Sgt_Snuffy Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Red Jewel Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Georgia Posts: 9	Car starting issue Ok I'm throwing out a Hail Mary here. I'm military stationed in Germany and am about to ship my 2010 1SS/RS home. The problem is that it now doesn't want to start. It doesn't try to crank most of the time. It will after many attempts starts and runs like normal but when I shut it down I get the same problem all over again. The car doesn't die while driving. I do have a CEL which is Clutch Pedal Position sensor low voltage. I've put a multimeter on the posts while trying to start. There's no appreciable change in voltage. I am supposed to put this car on a boat next week and right now I can't keep it running. I am looking for anything to get this car home. I've almost got the sensor out so if I can fool the car into starting, I'm all for it. Any help would be appreciated.

01-09-2015, 01:28 PM	#2
TommyTheCat SHKE BKE Drives: 2013 Camaro Join Date: May 2014 Location: SoCal Posts: 3,108	The car is not cranking because the car thinks the clutch pedal is not being pushed down properly. Just replace the clutch pedal position sensor

01-09-2015, 01:44 PM	#5
Sgt_Snuffy Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Red Jewel Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Georgia Posts: 9	The sensor is a nightmare to get to so I wouldn't expect you to go through that. I have googled around a bit and believe it's a potentiometer and the ECM is looking for <1.5V in order for it to crank.

01-09-2015, 06:16 PM	#7
TommyTheCat SHKE BKE Drives: 2013 Camaro Join Date: May 2014 Location: SoCal Posts: 3,108	Here's some programming instructions, I didn't actually read them through so good luck. Both the tremec and aisin trannies show the same instructions also, it's always possible you have a wiring problem but it's less likely here is the part number in case you're having trouble, this is what ALLDATA calls for which should be OEM. list price should be around $20 so not too bad. could also be available aftermarket 20995840 good luck

01-10-2015, 09:37 AM	#8
Sgt_Snuffy Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Red Jewel Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Georgia Posts: 9	Yeah I got the right sensor. Maybe I just missed a step and made it alot harder on myself. I did get the sensor out and checked with a multimeter It's reading between 1k and 4k ohms. Tried starting the car with/without it in and no luck. I then started reading up on some TSBs and found one very similar to my problem. It called for checked the ground to the ECM. So I pulled and cleaned every ground I could find around the ECM even the one under the heat shield. No luck after that. Finally I got back and started messing with the sensor while turning the key. It takes a few tries but there seems to be a sweet spot. Now it seems I can bypass to sensor all together by either taping it in place at that sweet spot or trying to find the right resistor to put in line.

01-10-2015, 09:39 AM	#9
Sgt_Snuffy Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Red Jewel Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Georgia Posts: 9	And I tried to do the CPP learn procedure mentioned in your post but it seems that the scan tool I had wasn't capable of it. And the code was P0807 and later swapped to P0808 after the grounding stuff.