05-05-2014, 07:28 PM | #15 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
Posts: 4,544
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Thats pad or fluid failure, not the lines. Lines would be a bit more travel to get the same degree of braking while feeling a tad soft.
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05-14-2014, 11:20 AM | #16 |
Drives: CGM 2SS RS w/ white stripes Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Clarksville, TN
Posts: 183
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You are probably using a good enough fluid for now, but you should bleed it before every track day and flush it once a year. As for pads...I didn't have problems with HP+ As my first track pad, but that's for you to decide. I would definitely upgrade to stainless steel brake lines. It improves the feel, and when they really heat up, the rubber ones can really expand. Unless you are way way faster than me, I would say your brake issues were from not bleeding or flushing your old fluid. You can always step up to the old standard or castrol SRF at twice the price.
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LGM G6X3 cam, LGM headers, Vararam intake, throttle body and intake ported by ADM Performance, 477 hp 454 ft-lb tq, tuned by PCMforLess
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05-14-2014, 12:28 PM | #17 |
Negative Camber Junkie
Drives: 2010 1SS LS3/6MN ABM 1 of 23 Join Date: May 2009
Location: ChiTown, IL
Posts: 1,824
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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same. Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different. I can't wait for my next Track fix. DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!! |
05-14-2014, 12:59 PM | #18 | |
Door ding magnet
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Quote:
I didn't detect any brake fade in the HP+ pads at all. It just lost all pressure right there at the end. It was my first day on a dry track, so I don't think I was faster than anyone here I'm holding off on the steel lines for now. Well, I'm holding off on just about all upgrades for now, other than a Driver Skill Upgrade. Plus, maintenance alone is expensive enough.
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"When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting." |
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05-14-2014, 02:36 PM | #19 | |
Drives: 2020 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,335
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Quote:
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05-14-2014, 03:45 PM | #20 | |
Drives: 2020 ZL1 1LE Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 1,335
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Quote:
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05-18-2014, 03:12 PM | #21 |
Romans10:9-13
Drives: /\yes, this is me/\ Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Vermilion, Ohio
Posts: 4,435
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Something that helps with engine & oil temps is a lower thermostat & for the fans to kick on sooner. the fans can be adjusted to come on earlier by a tune. keep all temps as low as possible, longer engine life & more hp.
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05-18-2014, 07:24 PM | #22 |
Drives: 14 1LE Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 1,567
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I hope this is true. There's just too much speculation that I'm seeing and that's why I'm doing the test. I'm running an external oil cooler so I'm hoping to see lower temps on my gauge. And I hope the gauge corresponds with the physical temp.
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LMS Engineering
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05-18-2014, 08:08 PM | #23 |
Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011
Location: Oversneeze
Posts: 4,544
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I saw significantly lower temps after my external cooler so I don't think its derived but still have plans to put in my actual gauge with warning light since the stock location is useless when trying to check temps at 120+mph. I just don't have time to do the last of my mods.
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Tags |
brakes, fatt, hpde, oil cooler |
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