04-22-2011, 09:21 PM | #15 | |
Drives: 2014 Sonic, 2010 Camaro SS Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 2,453
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Quote:
Here is a link to the "bed in" procedure I found on Tire Rack's website http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85 Hope that was helpful.
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Last edited by mikel441; 04-22-2011 at 09:40 PM. |
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04-22-2011, 09:57 PM | #16 | |
Quote:
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04-22-2011, 10:49 PM | #17 |
"Catharine"
Drives: '11 2SS/RS LS-3 IOM/IO vert Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Southern NH
Posts: 2,132
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+1. Dude, you will be so not happy if you cheat on brakes and lose. There's a lot at stake.
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04-23-2011, 12:10 AM | #18 |
04-23-2011, 09:23 AM | #19 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Midland, TX
Posts: 128
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the pins are designed to be reusable and ceramic pads are supposed to be quieter than semi metallic
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04-23-2011, 06:27 PM | #20 |
boostalicious
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Like reedster said, you can reuse these pins no problem, they are made for it. These are not 1 time use pins. Theres nothing unsafe about it. Also dont forget to clean your rotors well before putting them on
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04-23-2011, 06:36 PM | #21 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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The pins can FOR SURE be reused. They are made to come in and out for racing applications. The calipers on these cars are no joke. There are also MANY pad options for different applications. The quick switch option is great when you have dedicated track pads.
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04-23-2011, 07:10 PM | #22 |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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Has anyone else noticed how hard it is to torque the caliper bolts. The specs say 33 ft/lbs + 90 degrees. I could only muster 60-70 degrees, and that was with a braker bar!
Of course, I'm not as young as I once was, either.
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
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04-23-2011, 07:16 PM | #23 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Midland, TX
Posts: 128
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if you have to tighten them to a certain ft/lb and then an additional 90*, does this mean they are torque-to-yeild bolts and should be replaced after each use? just like the head bolts?
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04-23-2011, 07:39 PM | #24 | |
1,425 hp / supercharged
Drives: (2010 2SS/L99) (1999 Corvette) Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,104
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Quote:
I reused them, but it probably wouldn't hurt to replace them. I can't imagine they cost that much.
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"If it's too loud...well, you know the rest."
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04-26-2011, 02:53 PM | #25 | |
Drives: 2010 supercharged LS3 Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Le Mars, Iowa
Posts: 2,235
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Quote:
If all else fails, use the German torque spec "fookintight" |
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10-25-2011, 12:09 PM | #26 |
No Pain No Gain
Drives: Yellow 5th Gen 2SS RS Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: GA
Posts: 1,519
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Where did you get the stencil to paint in the word Brembo?
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2010 2SS/RS/L99 - Headers/CAI/SWAYs/CoilOvers/Tune/Steel Braided Brake Lines/Frozen Slotted Rotors
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10-25-2011, 12:36 PM | #27 |
Track > 1/4 Mile
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Converted my front calipers, brake lines, and rotors on my V6 to the SS Brembo's. Pretty easy, and I've never touched brakes before, lol.
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10-26-2011, 11:17 AM | #28 | |
Drives: 2011 Camaro SS/ 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sandy, Utah
Posts: 3,256
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Quote:
As noted in the thread above it is important to open the bleed screw when pushing the pistons back in, you never want to introduce old fluid back into the system. If the rotors are in good shape you can simply use some sand paper to "scuff" the surface of the rotor so the pads get bedded properly. I honestly don't like having rotors turned however especially if you're tracking the car. You're better off purchasing new rotors if they are that bad. Kind regards, Jordan Priestley 888.308.6007 |
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