an article that says catch cans are a waste???

[intensifi]

Originally Posted by 2013BlackLS

I'm new to the catch can? Is this easily installed yourself? Where does info and which ones are the best?

Yes very easily.

Search this forum for info on catch cans. I believe earlier posts in this thread point to intro material.

Which ones are the best is for you to decide as it is a loaded topic. RX and Elite support us well on Camaro5 so you might want to look at their products first. Other than price, the biggest user level decision is do you want to screw the bottom off to drain (elite style) or open a valve and let the oil drain out a tube (RX style)? There are internal differences in design of course that, after review, might help you decide which is best (for you). If you are planning on forced induction that will affect your choice of catch can.

[05stram]

Originally Posted by SC2150

This is an issue with all DI engines domestic and import. And no, the big 3 do not make them better than anyone else, in fact the inports have been doing DI far longer than any of the big 3.

Now, the Edmunds is a interview from a GM exec (talking head) and is skirting the issue.

Here is a link to photos shared by engine builders around the world of all makes of DI engines and the issues. Please take the time to look at these closely:
http://www.google.com/search?q=intak...w=2021&bih=875

We tear these and every type of motor you could imagine down steadily, and we have shown enough owners in person.

We do have one 3.6DI with over 60k miles using the RX catchcan and has zero coking of the valves (anyone with doubt and wanting to prove for themselves the false/inaccurate statements made, just remove your intake manifold (takes 5-10 minutes) and look at your intake valves with a flashlight. Here are pictures from both us inhouse, and from GM's TSB's on the issue:




and the same 3.6L non DI with over 100k miles on it with port injection (the LY7):


With DI no fuel passes the intake valves, so it is impossible to not have the coking unless running an effective catchcan such as the RX.

Here is the best thread to read all about every article:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265217

Read ALL 8 pages to see all the documentation you could want on this subject.

Understand, NO manufacturer admits to the extent this is an issue, but anyone tearing these down see's it first hand.

And, if you have a maggie or any top mount SC this is what the intercooler looks like after 15k miles w/out a good catchcan:


and the Zl1 blower with 16k miles and the RX catchcan installed from the beginning:


Anyone doubting the need, stop in and we will remove your intake manifold at no cost and show you your valves and how bad they are....then rethink the spin put out by the talking heads.

All one can say after seeing that is WOW

[05stram]

Originally Posted by SC2150

All gasoline engines will benefit from halting the oil ingestion. Long term the deposits are part of any engine, short term the detonation caused by the ingestion is the most immediate negative. You only want air/fuel in the combustion chamber as the oil reduces the usable octaine of the fuel and also negativily effects the burn pattern, etc.

The DI engines, the valve coking is happening before 10 k miles.



Saiku Micchi is an excellent can, but they do not have the proper setup for turbo or centri SC. You must have a dual flow controlling checkvalve system setup correctly with the proper cleanside setup as well.

If you want details, we are steadily getting these in and retrofiting them properly.....your choice. If you want very detailed description of all just PM.






Part of it. The biggest issue is the caught oil has a concentration of damaging combustion byproducts in it and reintroducing it to the crankcase is pouring in abrasive carbon particles, water, unburnt fuel, sulfuris acid, etc. that are part of a proper crankcase (PCV) evacuation systems function to remove while still in a suspended state.

That is why so many have issues over time by deleting evacuation and flushing. You can just vent pressure, but then changing your oil every 500 miles or so is not economical to avoid the long term engine damage caused byt allowing these compounds to accumulate in the crankcase every heat/cool cycle. If these are not fulshed out and evacuated while still in a gasseous state, they condense and accumulate in the engine oil.

We see this all the time with engine builds we do.

Why doesn't GM just issue a TSB and filter the crankcase gases or put on a catch can would that no be cheaper than tearing one down for problems down the road?