Some Help w JPSS Caster Lock Install

[NotYetLegend]

Installing JPSS caster locks today and I have realized I need an eccentric bolt to make it all work (I should have anticipated this...). Factory bolt shoulder sits on top of the "fence" as you can see here (which again, is obvious and makes sense, I should have known this):



Anyone know if I need the special JPSS "long throw" eccentrics? or can I just run to a dealer and buy two factory rear camber eccentric bolts? Trying to get this wrapped up before it starts raining... Probably just go buy factory bolts and if I can't work that I'll order something. Any help appreciated as always, thanks.

[tw78911sc]

yep. had the same issue, I ground down the fence where the bolt overlapped. May could try a washer with less of a diameter under the bolt head.

[brokencilence]

So get them from Pete and you'll be good to go.

[NotYetLegend]

Originally Posted by tw78911sc

yep. had the same issue, I ground down the fence where the bolt overlapped. May could try a washer with less of a diameter under the bolt head.

Looks like I may have to go this route. Dealer is telling me 7-10 days to get oem camber bolts which is outrageous. I have a road trip planned for Friday so I need the car back on the ground and aligned asap. Thanks guys!

[130R]

The Detroit Speed kit comes with hardware: http://www.detroitspeed.com/2010+F-B...aster-kit.html

I'm sure you could find the appropriate grade bolt locally at a hardware store.

[rockrau]

Grind the bolt flange at a flat not the fence.

[NotYetLegend]

Originally Posted by 130R

The Detroit Speed kit comes with hardware: http://www.detroitspeed.com/2010+F-B...aster-kit.html

I'm sure you could find the appropriate grade bolt locally at a hardware store.

Awesome suggestions, much appreciated. I went ahead and ordered these w/ overnight shipping (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00). I doubt they're the highest quality but I just need to get the car put back together and back on the ground ASAP! In the future I'll probably upgraded the front and the rear to the JPSS bolts (because they look badass ) when I lower the car but for now these will have to do.

I was hesitant to cut into the fences because then in the future if you want to use an eccentric to have an adjustable setup I doubt the washers will work as well w/o the middle portion of the fence to push against. My "bailout" plan if I couldn't find parts w/ an overnight option was to cut the stock bolt head a bit (so that it would fully seat but not turn because the cut/flat face would sit up against the fence) and find a smaller nut (a non-shouldered nut) that would thread onto the oem bolt. I would also get a washer (in place of the oem nut shoulder), cut the washer similar to the bolt head and then put the whole thing together. But I made a resolution to stop going to Lowes so much for "car" parts...

[NotYetLegend]

Hey guys, just finished this project up and wanted to give one last update. The amazon part I ordered (link in previous post) arrived toady but it was two different sized bolts, one long and one short (the long one being the proper size for front caster adjustment/rear camber adjustment). I assume from the packaging that the shorter eccentric bolt is for rear toe adjustment (however I did not confirm this and it is not entirely clear), which means you would need to order TWO of these to end up with a pair of appropriate eccentrics for front caster adjustment or caster locks (which sucks because that's like $70...).

I need the car this Friday for a road trip I'm taking to Asheville (from Memphis), I'll be hitting the tail of the dragon one more time and all the other crazy roads around there etc... In short I NEEDED the car back on the ground tonight. Here's how I did it:

Turns out that even though only one of the eccentric bolts in my kit was the correct size, they both had the same size nut on them. Those nuts fit the OEM bolts perfectly. This is important because you no longer have to cut clearance into the "fence" on the inboard side of each front suspension mount, you can use the two nuts (not shouldered like the OEM nuts) from what I ordered with the caster lock itself acting as the "washer".

It was very easy to grind some clearance into the outboard side's fence (important because getting a dremel at the inside fence is tough, lots of aluminum and rubber lines everywhere to hit and no space). You don't have to grind all the way down because the thickness of the caster lock plate acts as a washer, this is great because an eccentric would still have some fence to work with if you converted in the future. With the relief cut into the outboard side's fence you can assemble the mount from outside to inside:

OEM bolt --> caster lock --> through mounts and radius rod bushing to other side --> caster lock --> aftermarket non-shouldered nut.

To "time" the bushing, which still needs to be done if you are using "inserts" in the OEM bushings, I placed 9 bricks under each wheel (not kidding), 3x3 stacks. Drop the car onto the bricks with the assembled front suspension bolts slightly loose. Bounce the car around a bit to make sure the rubber bushings relieve any rotational strain and then place two jack stands under the front subframe (because your head will be under there and the car is on loose bricks...) and tighten the bolts using two 21mm wrenches (I used a box wrench on the inside nuts and a ratchet on the outside bolt heads) with some thread locker. Not sure the actual torque spec but they go pretty dang tight.

My only concern is my assumption that the JPSS caster locks on each inner mount is sufficient to act as a "washer" for the clamping force from the now non-shouldered nut? After tightening to full torque there is no visual deformation of the caster lock plates on either side that I can see so I'm going with it for now. Will update if anything goes wrong!

[cdb95z28]

I think you would have been fine to grind the shoulder on the bolt and nut, very little grinding, but you made it work!

I made my own castor locks and sourced the bolts from boltdepot.com, 10.9 class 14mmx2x140mm, I used the OE nut





I'll be heading down to the Dragon the first week of August

[NotYetLegend]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

I think you would have been fine to grind the shoulder on the bolt and nut, very little grinding, but you made it work!

I made my own castor locks and sourced the bolts from boltdepot.com, 10.9 class 14mmx2x140mm, I used the OE nut

Attachment 724674

Attachment 724675

I'll be heading down to the Dragon the first week of August

That looks great man, good job finding the legit hardware (and thanks for sharing the proper sizes, I'm sure that will help a few people out in the future)! Yeah I just drove mine to the gym, it seems to be working great. Have fun on the Dragon!

[Burt]

One thing I'd like to point out, I didn't remember Pete mentioning the need for eccentrics, since these make eccentrics ineffective. I got on his site to look around, and found pictures of the locks being used with what appears to be the original bolt:



I'd think about shooting Pete a message about it, particularly since more than one person is having an issue.

[NotYetLegend]

Originally Posted by Burt

One thing I'd like to point out, I didn't remember Pete mentioning the need for eccentrics, since these make eccentrics ineffective. I got on his site to look around, and found pictures of the locks being used with what appears to be the original bolt:



I'd think about shooting Pete a message about it, particularly since more than one person is having an issue.

Well damn, that's definitely strange... That picture looks like there is even extra clearance between the oem bolt and the fence.

This thread has "JPSS" in the title so I'm sure Pete will read through it, he's helped me out before on random threads so I'm sure he reads everything in the suspension forum, especially if it has his company name in the title. I assume that the picture he has is with older plates that didn't have as much throw (maybe deliberately so you could re-use the oem hardware). I don't really think it's a "problem" however, I should have anticipated the need for an eccentric or non-shouldered hardware.

[JusticePete]

I am sorry I didn't see this earlier. The factory fences are bent and welded in. They are not dead nuts on all the time. Occasionally you'll run into a situation where the fence is bent in toward the bolt. The solution is to bend it back a bit with a hammer and chisel until the bolt can sit flat.

Any time you need help with an install please email me at Pete@JPSSonline.com and I'll get back to you a.s.a.p. even evenings and weekends.

[tw78911sc]

I think GM changed the bolt, it now has a much larger shoulder, my castor locks fit fine, but had the exact issue the OP showed, the shoulder is too large to fit inside the fence after your move the hole closer to the fence.