Clutch pedal stucking in mid range

[Piasek]

Hello Gents,
I have such problem with my SS -M6.
When I am trying to do burnout/ quick start and drop the clutch pedal - it is going to stuck in a mid range and causing clutch slide. (or it goes back to top - car tyres start slipping on the asphalt, but after part of second pedal itself is going down to mid hight and causing clutch slip).
Than I have to let go of the trottle so the rpms got lower and the clutch is going back to normal and can accelerate back again. At the moment looks like no burnout possible.
1. When I bought the car, the transmission was broken and was replaced by new one, car had 7000 miles / now about 25 k.
2. At the time I put new spec stage 2 clutch + balanced with factory wheel before montage
3. The DOT fluid was drained from the whole system and exchanged with new one with sport destiny DOT 4 + discs brakes & brake pads changed changed for drilled STOP TECH's.

Could any one drop some hint what is the issue?
The spec clutch not working ok, or clutch slave cylinder has to be changed?

[frankwjr]

Are you putting the car in comp mod? turn off ALL the nannies by holding down the button for 8-10 sec...then try your burn out with rpm's at 4k and DUMP the clutch...do not ride it out...good luck...also put it in 2nd gear....peace out...

[Piasek]

Originally Posted by frankwjr

Are you putting the car in comp mod? turn off ALL the nannies by holding down the button for 8-10 sec...then try your burn out with rpm's at 4k and DUMP the clutch...do not ride it out...good luck...also put it in 2nd gear....peace out...

Hi Mate,
yes - puting it in competetive mode always.
If I sit and think calm, looks like earlier was ok, problem started after I let the car for some show off to my brother in law. It was his 2nd trip in such car, so it probably could happen, that he tried some "performancies" with systems on and one big clutch slip done by him caused new clutch need to be changed again :/ :(
Not know for sure but it looks like it.
To check it, has to take gearbox off first - so better order the new clutch earlier, as it will take some time for item to be shipped from US to Europe.

As we spoke about clutch topic, can someone advise which one shall be the best and not ruin my pocket the same time?

[Synner]

Turn every nanny off by holding the button down for 8+ seconds. Competitive mode is not completely off.

How much horsepower do you have? Will you do a lot of drag racing?

[Piasek]

Originally Posted by Synner

Turn every nanny off by holding the button down for 8+ seconds. Competitive mode is not completely off.

How much horsepower do you have? Will you do a lot of drag racing?

Yes I know
At Europe we do not have such well organized drag racing and here we have rather circut racing.
About my preciest, I was not checking the power but shall be little above factory due to BBK long tubes with no cats and flowmaster rear exhaust.
Plan is to add boost in 2 Months to reach about 500 - 550 whp.

[Synner]

If you're going to add boost I would look at McLeod RXT, Monster LT1-SC, or Street Slayer Twin Carbon. When you do the clutch use Monsters billet bearing support and install a remote bleeder while it's all apart. There are lightweight flywheels or track oriented race options which are great for circuit racing but aren't fun in heavy traffic and daily driving. It depends on what you want your clutch to do and what you can put up with on a regular basis.

[Piasek]

Originally Posted by Synner

If you're going to add boost I would look at McLeod RXT, Monster LT1-SC, or Street Slayer Twin Carbon. When you do the clutch use Monsters billet bearing support and install a remote bleeder while it's all apart. There are lightweight flywheels or track oriented race options which are great for circuit racing but aren't fun in heavy traffic and daily driving. It depends on what you want your clutch to do and what you can put up with on a regular basis.

This is my daily driver so need to be user friendly also in traffic jams.
From all mentioned by You, the Monster is about 700 usd cheaper than others. As I put significant money on boost will be targeting to monster with aditional package as You suggested. Only question is if shall take with light or steel flywheel - as most of driving will be done daily...

EDIT: Looked once again closely and the price is similar/ somehow firstly it showed me Monster for C5 - that a reason why was cheapper. So now coming back to the start again...

[danvillekidd]

Your problem could be clutch dust causing the slave cylinder to stick. This is a known issue in gm hydraulic clutches that the corvette and camaros use. There is more info on this in the corvette forums than on here. I had this happen after loading onto a trailer. Clutch wants to stick and not come up all the way. Flushing and bleeding the clutch fluid line should fix it.

[Piasek]

Whole system was cleaned and filled with DOT 4 for sports destination. It did not help :(

[Bo White]

Root cause is the crap pressure plate locking up. Dirty fluid aggrevates the problem.

[Piasek]

But clutch & gearbox was replaced 1 Year ago - driven about 18k on it.
master slave cylinder was put "old".
Will try to arrange next week or so, to take the gearbox down and check clutch/ pressure plate/ master cylinder.
Thx for hints

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Piasek

But clutch & gearbox was replaced 1 Year ago - driven about 18k on it.
master slave cylinder was put "old".
Will try to arrange next week or so, to take the gearbox down and check clutch/ pressure plate/ master cylinder.
Thx for hints

Being that you've flushed your fluid and it's still sticking then it could be the slave plastic support bearing starting to shred. See post9 in the following thread.
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422428

Time to upgrade to a $80 billit release bearing
http://monsterclutches.com/billet-bearing-install

http://monsterclutches.com/gen-5-cam...earing-support

[frankwjr]

Also you can remove the clutch spring down on the pedal itself...I did this almost right after getting the car and have never had any sticking, etc. The pedal feel is much better and no "over the top" feeling....

BTW-If you "friend" lol smoked the clutch and you tried to do an burn out right after the heat in the clutch will cause your prob....I have "smoked like a tire burnout" my stock clutch twice.....let it cool down completely and still DD the car with very "spirited driving" gotta wake the lemmings UP!!!!!!!!!!!! Also my clutch/brake fluid never got completely clean until I did a complete brake bleed, now it has yet to get that dirty look....and that's like 5k over drivin and several trips to the 1/4...check my sig and good luck!!!

[Piasek]

So there is no other optin as took off transmission and ivestigate master cylinder + clutch plate.
Only worse thing is that if it showed that either of it is damaged- than will have to wait few weeks to have it shipped to Europe/ or pay huge amount for air delivery/ or put it back the condition it is and driving till parts apear.
I envy You all, that in case of part damage/ wear You go to the shop in Your city, buy and install...