Brake temps, anybody measured right after track sessions? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Destructo09 · 07-20-2015, 07:56 PM

Curious if anyone has ever measured rotor temp right after a session.

I usually run 25 minute sessions at VIR and HP+ pads didn't cut it at North course and i'm doing Full course in September and looking into pads options.

I considered DTC30/HP+ because that would be the cheapest option and the HP+ in the rear did not overheat.

The DTC30 states it's good from 100-1200 min-max but optimal is 100-800 which worries me a bit, however the HP+ max is only 800, so obviously the max temp is a vast improvement, i'm guessing the torque just starts falling off a bit on the 30s after 800.

So, basically i'm curious if anybody running a street tire compound has checked brake temps without ducting on stock SS brakes to see about how hot they really get.

I'm going to be running street tires (M/T Street Comps) so no super sticky tires or anything, so I wonder if the 30/HP+ combo will work well for me.

The other concern is I will be at least driving to the track with the track pads on which is about a 1.5 hour drive and it's no uncommon to have to hit the brakes for deer on the route there.

White_SS/RS · 07-21-2015, 01:01 AM

Before I installed brake ducting I would come off the track and the calipers would be about 5-600* and the rotors about 6-700*. While it gives you an idea it doesn't truly reflect what temps are on track slowing the car, which can be double what's seen after cool a down lap and parking. Only way to truly know is to use heat sensitive paint that changes color at certain temperatures. DTC30's will work but if your harder on brakes you may want to go a step further.

summit1le · 07-21-2015, 06:26 AM

I used the setup you mentioned originally. Bad idea. If you are going race pads and or hawk pads. Use dtc 70 front 60 rear.

Synner · 07-21-2015, 07:53 AM

Cheapest option and brakes at VIR is never the way to go. You either need to step up to a full track pad or brake like an old lady. I threw out the DTC-30 pads after one track day, total garbage.

JOHNSONROD · 07-21-2015, 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by summit1le

I used the setup you mentioned originally. Bad idea. If you are going race pads and or hawk pads. Use dtc 70 front 60 rear.

WORD!!!

Destructo09 · 07-21-2015, 10:32 AM

Thanks guys, I didn't really have major fade with HP+ but they smeared pad material all over the passenger front rotor and got baked pretty badly.

I knew they might not be ideal and I was probably a little more conservative on the brakes and it was my first event.

I pretty much suspect the DTC30s would be a waste of money, so thanks for confirming that.

Do I really need DTC70s up front though? I noticed hawk has a new DTC50 which looks to just be a HT-14 pad, it actually has more torque than the DTC60 but not quite the temp range.

Am I going to have issues with activating ABS too easily on street tires running such an aggressive pad?

cornerspeed92 · 07-21-2015, 01:15 PM

I have the Quantum brake cooling system. My buddy KRich2537 and I did a track day and from what i remember my rotors were around 500 and his were 700.

X25 · 07-21-2015, 09:10 PM

These cars are heavy, and you can always use more brakes, especially with track tires. I ended up going all the way up to ST47/ST45 brakes. They provide more bite than anything else, and yet you can still modulate. Hawk pads destroy rotors and wheels.

backeddy · 07-21-2015, 10:54 PM

Skip the HP and other options (st45/47 are ok) and buy Carbotech xp 12 for the front and xp 10 for the rear and be done with it. Let my $1000's in "testing" pads save you your $$$$$$$. the carbo's are good up to 1850 degrees and you just have to bed them properly to keep them quiet on the street.................

X25 · 07-22-2015, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by backeddy

Skip the HP and other options (st45/47 are ok) and buy Carbotech xp 12 for the front and xp 10 for the rear and be done with it. Let my $1000's in "testing" pads save you your $$$$$$$. the carbo's are good up to 1850 degrees and you just have to bed them properly to keep them quiet on the street.................

Did you try their XP16s or XP20s? I think you might like them more

backeddy · 07-22-2015, 12:32 AM

They are much more aggressive on the rotors on the street...

X25 · 07-22-2015, 12:40 AM

I personally tried XP12/XP10 combination on my Miata, and it was way too soft. It's nice to modulate mid corner, but I've not had enough confidence in braking zones. My brother had XP16s, and they were better. I used to love ST43s on my Corvettes, but they also feel a little bit too soft on this car. I suppose weight does matter after all : )

You might have a different experience since I suppose you have ZL1 calipers.

summit1le · 07-22-2015, 06:50 AM

Thinking about the reybestos myself!. I would also like to try to cobalts much dinero

Destructo09 · 07-22-2015, 09:44 AM

I was looking at Carbotech XP12/10s also, I think i'm leaning more that way since I don't know if I would be able to wash my wheels and stuff if it rains on the track over the weekend and really don't want that corrosive dust. The car is far from a beauty queen, but I still don't want the wheels ruined.

I've heard of the raybestos also, I might take a look at them.

I just can't see spending the money on Cobalts currently, i'm registered for green group and honestly doubt I would be able to tell much difference for the money until my skill progresses much more.

Another option, my co-worker with a STI uses the same from pads as SS's, he's got Pagid RS42's, the friction on them looks way lower than hawk pads though, but they seem to handle decent heat and when I ride in his car they don't make noise at all even on the street.

I don't need a street pad because I can swap them, but it would be nice for them to behave on the street to some extent for driving to/from the track.

07-20-2015, 07:56 PM	#1
Destructo09 Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Raleigh-Durham Posts: 1,409	Brake temps, anybody measured right after track sessions? Curious if anyone has ever measured rotor temp right after a session. I usually run 25 minute sessions at VIR and HP+ pads didn't cut it at North course and i'm doing Full course in September and looking into pads options. I considered DTC30/HP+ because that would be the cheapest option and the HP+ in the rear did not overheat. The DTC30 states it's good from 100-1200 min-max but optimal is 100-800 which worries me a bit, however the HP+ max is only 800, so obviously the max temp is a vast improvement, i'm guessing the torque just starts falling off a bit on the 30s after 800. So, basically i'm curious if anybody running a street tire compound has checked brake temps without ducting on stock SS brakes to see about how hot they really get. I'm going to be running street tires (M/T Street Comps) so no super sticky tires or anything, so I wonder if the 30/HP+ combo will work well for me. The other concern is I will be at least driving to the track with the track pads on which is about a 1.5 hour drive and it's no uncommon to have to hit the brakes for deer on the route there. __________________ 2010 2SS BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP)

07-21-2015, 01:01 AM	#2
White_SS/RS Drives: 14 1LE Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Spokane, WA Posts: 1,567	Before I installed brake ducting I would come off the track and the calipers would be about 5-600* and the rotors about 6-700*. While it gives you an idea it doesn't truly reflect what temps are on track slowing the car, which can be double what's seen after cool a down lap and parking. Only way to truly know is to use heat sensitive paint that changes color at certain temperatures. DTC30's will work but if your harder on brakes you may want to go a step further. __________________ LMS Engineering

07-21-2015, 06:26 AM	#3
summit1le Drives: 15 Lexus RCF, 17 Vette Grand Sport Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: South Florida Posts: 549	I used the setup you mentioned originally. Bad idea. If you are going race pads and or hawk pads. Use dtc 70 front 60 rear. __________________ 2013 Summit 1SS 1LE w/NPP, SW 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers, CAI Intake, Ported TB, Cammotion 224/232 113 LSA, BTR Valvetrain, Melling Oil Pump, 468 HP 423, Apex Catch Can, Tank Plates, RPM 4 Point Roll Bar with SCCA/NASA Cross Brace, Schroth 6 Point Han's Harness, OMP WRC Front Seats, F.M.T Trailing Arms, F.M.T Solid Aluminum Subframe Bushings, Moreno Motorsports Camber Plates, BMR Bushings Front and Rear, Essex/AP Racing Radi-Cal Endurance Front Brakes, Quantum Brake Cooling Ducts, ZL1 Rockers, ZL1 Air Deflectors, Heritage Grill, Pfadt Springs.

07-21-2015, 10:32 AM	#6
Destructo09 Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Raleigh-Durham Posts: 1,409	Thanks guys, I didn't really have major fade with HP+ but they smeared pad material all over the passenger front rotor and got baked pretty badly. I knew they might not be ideal and I was probably a little more conservative on the brakes and it was my first event. I pretty much suspect the DTC30s would be a waste of money, so thanks for confirming that. Do I really need DTC70s up front though? I noticed hawk has a new DTC50 which looks to just be a HT-14 pad, it actually has more torque than the DTC60 but not quite the temp range. Am I going to have issues with activating ABS too easily on street tires running such an aggressive pad? __________________ 2010 2SS BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP)

07-21-2015, 01:15 PM	#7
cornerspeed92 Drives: 2013 1SS 1LE Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Colorado Posts: 4,188 View My Garage	I have the Quantum brake cooling system. My buddy KRich2537 and I did a track day and from what i remember my rotors were around 500 and his were 700. __________________

07-21-2015, 07:53 AM	#4
Synner Drives: cars Join Date: May 2011 Location: Oversneeze Posts: 4,545	Cheapest option and brakes at VIR is never the way to go. You either need to step up to a full track pad or brake like an old lady. I threw out the DTC-30 pads after one track day, total garbage.

07-21-2015, 09:10 PM	#8
X25 Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 3,056	These cars are heavy, and you can always use more brakes, especially with track tires. I ended up going all the way up to ST47/ST45 brakes. They provide more bite than anything else, and yet you can still modulate. Hawk pads destroy rotors and wheels. __________________ '16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread) '14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD

07-21-2015, 10:54 PM	#9
backeddy Banned Drives: 2011 Boxster Spyder (best car ever) Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: San Jose, Ca Posts: 1,529	Skip the HP and other options (st45/47 are ok) and buy Carbotech xp 12 for the front and xp 10 for the rear and be done with it. Let my $1000's in "testing" pads save you your $$$$$$$. the carbo's are good up to 1850 degrees and you just have to bed them properly to keep them quiet on the street.................

07-22-2015, 12:32 AM	#11
backeddy Banned Drives: 2011 Boxster Spyder (best car ever) Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: San Jose, Ca Posts: 1,529	They are much more aggressive on the rotors on the street...

07-22-2015, 12:40 AM	#12
X25 Drives: '16 C7 Z51 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 3,056	I personally tried XP12/XP10 combination on my Miata, and it was way too soft. It's nice to modulate mid corner, but I've not had enough confidence in braking zones. My brother had XP16s, and they were better. I used to love ST43s on my Corvettes, but they also feel a little bit too soft on this car. I suppose weight does matter after all : ) You might have a different experience since I suppose you have ZL1 calipers. __________________ '16 Corvette C7 Z51 1LT (Build Thread) '14 AGM 1SS 1LE [COTW 11/17/14] (Build Thread) (SOLD) '13 Mazda MX-5 Club (Build Thread) '17 RAM 1500 Crew Cab 4x4 Night Edition '15 Nissan Rogue S AWD

07-22-2015, 06:50 AM	#13
summit1le Drives: 15 Lexus RCF, 17 Vette Grand Sport Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: South Florida Posts: 549	Thinking about the reybestos myself!. I would also like to try to cobalts much dinero __________________ 2013 Summit 1SS 1LE w/NPP, SW 1 7/8" Long Tube Headers, CAI Intake, Ported TB, Cammotion 224/232 113 LSA, BTR Valvetrain, Melling Oil Pump, 468 HP 423, Apex Catch Can, Tank Plates, RPM 4 Point Roll Bar with SCCA/NASA Cross Brace, Schroth 6 Point Han's Harness, OMP WRC Front Seats, F.M.T Trailing Arms, F.M.T Solid Aluminum Subframe Bushings, Moreno Motorsports Camber Plates, BMR Bushings Front and Rear, Essex/AP Racing Radi-Cal Endurance Front Brakes, Quantum Brake Cooling Ducts, ZL1 Rockers, ZL1 Air Deflectors, Heritage Grill, Pfadt Springs.

07-22-2015, 09:44 AM	#14
Destructo09 Drives: 2010 CGM Camaro 2SS/LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Raleigh-Durham Posts: 1,409	I was looking at Carbotech XP12/10s also, I think i'm leaning more that way since I don't know if I would be able to wash my wheels and stuff if it rains on the track over the weekend and really don't want that corrosive dust. The car is far from a beauty queen, but I still don't want the wheels ruined. I've heard of the raybestos also, I might take a look at them. I just can't see spending the money on Cobalts currently, i'm registered for green group and honestly doubt I would be able to tell much difference for the money until my skill progresses much more. Another option, my co-worker with a STI uses the same from pads as SS's, he's got Pagid RS42's, the friction on them looks way lower than hawk pads though, but they seem to handle decent heat and when I ride in his car they don't make noise at all even on the street. I don't need a street pad because I can swap them, but it would be nice for them to behave on the street to some extent for driving to/from the track. __________________ 2010 2SS BMR 1" Springs Koni Orange struts/shocks 1LE rear sway bar SRP Racing Pedals Hurst Billet short shifter Square tire/wheel setup Elite Engineering Catch Can Stainless Power longtubes/highflow cats K&N Typhoon CAI RPM Motorsports of Garner, NC dyno tune (421 RWHP)