Driveshaft Shop 9inch conversion in LPE650

[2010 BADSS]

I am writing this install thread on behalf of C5 member rs-ss2 (AKA my hubby) due to time constraints on his part. This install is the Driveshaft Shop's 9inch conversion kit which we fitted with a Moser truetrac limited slip posi and 3.90 gear.



This install was done over the course of 2 weekends, as there was no rush to get it done.

First step was to remove the exhaust, heat shields, and the stock driveshaft.







Next, took off the wheels rotors, and removed the axle nut. It wa 34mm for the 1200 HP DSS half shafts that were on there. To remove the axle nut you need to set the e-brake and may need a cheater bar because it's really torqued on tight.

Then, disconnect the upper control arm, toe rods, trailing arm, and lower shock mount from the LCA.

Then pop the half shafts loose from the differential by using a large screwdriver as a wedge between the half shaft and the side of the differential. There is a clip inside that will pop loose by doing this.



We used a transmission jack to support the diff and removed it.


The next step is to assemble the DSS housing, gasket, and center section.
The center section came with studs and nuts holding the pinion support in place. These studs were removed and replaced with the DSS allen head bolts which are longer, so the bush mounting bracket and spacer (if required) can be put into position.

Our center section is the Moser nodular center section with an aluminum pinion support. This pinion support is thicker, so the spacer wasn't needed. It is included in the kit, since some center sections are thinner, such as those with a steel pinion support, and the spacer is required with these. If the spacer is required, it should be placed behind the bracket that is mounted to the pinion support. Here are pics of ours assembled.



Now everything has been removed, but before the new differential can go in, some modifications were needed. Because of it's larger size, the pumpkin would not fit. This is what was required for ours because we used the moser nodular center section. This picture shows before modification where the relief is needed. The wiring harness also needed to be relocated higher.


Here are where the cuts were made.


Here's how it looks after it was painted.


Here is where the relief was needed on the nodular ribbing.


This picture show the clearance now that it's in.


*Note* If a factory nodular housing from ford is used, no modifications are needed.


Now it is just a matter of putting in the new 9inch parts. The differential bushing that comes with the DSS kit has a slightly larger diameter hole, so the stock bolt had some play. So we bought the same length in a 9/16th inch bolt.



You also have to enlarge the hole it mounts to slightly.



Next, bolted the differential in place and made sure the driveshaft lined up ok. Then line up the splines of the half shafts and insert them into the differential until they seat completely. The half shafts on this kit are held in with 4 allen bolts on each side instead of the clip on the old half shafts, however there is very limited access to tighten these bolts. There is an access slot to the bolt which you must turn the axle to line up with each bolt. We also had to cut an allen wrench because of limited overhead access.



This kit is extremely well thought out. Also, Driveshaft shop and Lingenfelter (where we ordered our kits) are top notch and extremely helpful. After the test drive, I must say the 3.90 gear feels VERY PEPPY!!! We're putting one in mine over the next couple weeks. I'll post some torque specs tomorrow. Now for some final pictures.





REAR SUSPENSION TORQUE SPECS

4 Strut Mount to Body Bolts 43lbft
Strut to Strut Mount Nut 33lbft
Strut to lower Control Arm 59lbft 120 degrees
Lower Control Arm Inner Bushing at Adjuster 85LBFT
Lower Control Arm at Knuckle Assembly 30lbft 120 degrees
Upper Control Arm Rear Bolt to Bushing 37lbft 120 degrees
Upper Control Arm Rear Bushing Bracket Bolts 59lbft 120 degrees
Upper Control Arm Pivot Joint 59lbft 120 degrees
Upper Control Arm to Knuckle Assembly 44LBFT 90 degrees
Toe Link inner to Subframe Adjuster 85LBFT
Toe Link to Knuckle Assembly Bolt 103 lbft
Trailing Arm to Subframe Assembly (Inner) 74lbft
Trailing Arm to Knuckle Asembly 30lbft 120 degrees
Front Cradle(Subframe) Bolts to Body 74lbft 120 degrees
Rear Cradle (Subframe) Bolts to Body 74lbft 120 degrees
Front Differential Bushings 59lbft
Rear Differential bushings 59lbft
Driveshaft to Differential 85LBFT
Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Assembly (L99, LS3) 30lbft 90 degrees
Caliper Bracket to Knuckle Assembly (LLT) 30lbft 90 degrees
Rear Sway Bar End link Nuts 36lbft
Sway bar Bushing Bracket bolts 16lbft
Nut for CV shaft to Knuckle...... 199lbft/270nm
Aluminum disc to drive shaft 54ft/lbs
Aluminum disc to transmission output shaft 70ft/lbs use loctite
Drive shaft u bolts to pinion 54 ft/lbs

[Ivan @ Southwest Speed]

Very Well Done!!!

Woah. I'm impressed. Looks like a little finessing and it went in ok. I'll be chowing popcorn ferociously to hear the "street verdict" on the gear choice.

I'm hoping that you guys are going to be geeked with it as there are a bunch of folks wanting to know whether to go this way or 4.xx or ??

Great pictures and detail. I'm ready next!

Thank you for posting!
Ivan

[mws444]

Thanks, 2010!! Very thought out and descriptive writting, with the perfect pics!! You have saved me a lot of time when I have to tackle the job myself. Now just sneak over to the strip and give us a drop in the 'ol 1/4 mile run.
Is there going to be another track day for you to test her out?

[55Designs]

This is the best review and install posted for anyone considering the upgrade. Good Job. By the way do the exhaust pipes hit the case by chance? the last photo they look close and I am wondering if you had to heat and drop the hanger a but for clearance.

let us know how it all works.

[600hp-lpe]

Nice writeup Diana!
thanks for the tips on what you modified/changed.
Will make it easier to do mine when I am ready over the winter..

[RS-SS2]

Originally Posted by 55Designs

This is the best review and install posted for anyone considering the upgrade. Good Job. By the way do the exhaust pipes hit the case by chance? the last photo they look close and I am wondering if you had to heat and drop the hanger a but for clearance.

let us know how it all works.

There is actually plenty of clearance in the diff area, however the bearing bracket area for the drive shaft hangs down a bit more than the stock piece. The DSS bearing bracket is a stout piece compared to the stock one. The only thing I had to do there was rotate the exhaust pipes downward 1/8th of an inch at the cat connection and mould the tinfoil heat shield for exhaust clearance.

[2010 BADSS]

Here is another angle showing the exhaust clearance at the diff.

[2010 BADSS]

Originally Posted by Ivan @ Southwest Speed

Very Well Done!!!

Woah. I'm impressed. Looks like a little finessing and it went in ok. I'll be chowing popcorn ferociously to hear the "street verdict" on the gear choice.

I'm hoping that you guys are going to be geeked with it as there are a bunch of folks wanting to know whether to go this way or 4.xx or ??

Great pictures and detail. I'm ready next!

Thank you for posting!
Ivan

Thanks Ivan, after driving rs's, I'm glad we didn't pick the 4.11's I think the 3.90 is going to be perfect.

Originally Posted by mws444

Thanks, 2010!! Very thought out and descriptive writting, with the perfect pics!! You have saved me a lot of time when I have to tackle the job myself. Now just sneak over to the strip and give us a drop in the 'ol 1/4 mile run.
Is there going to be another track day for you to test her out?

The 1/4 mile is closed till spring, and I think my car will be undergoing surgery for the next road course day Dec 18th. I doubt rs will let me take his.:( I'm just lucky he let me test drive it the other day.

[Driveshaftshop]

Great post and excellent pictures, you did better than we did with them. i just wish it was a little warmer so you could take a good run with it. thanks for taking the time to show the install so clearly.
Frank

[2010 BADSS]

Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop

Great post and excellent pictures, you did better than we did with them. i just wish it was a little warmer so you could take a good run with it. thanks for taking the time to show the install so clearly.
Frank

You're welcome, and thank you for all your information, help, and putting together this awesome kit! My car will be next, and then I can track it with confidence knowing that my driveshaft and rear will be able to handle the horsepower.

[Driveshaftshop]

Were at PRI displaying and i dident realize how many people dident know the kit comes complete with the Diff housing-mounting hardware-Axles-Driveshaft. most only seem to think its was just the housing. this afternoon there was actually a line of people waiting to look at.....

[RS-SS2]

Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop

Great post and excellent pictures, you did better than we did with them. i just wish it was a little warmer so you could take a good run with it. thanks for taking the time to show the install so clearly.
Frank

Frank, your welcome. I do wish the track was still open so we could break them in.

[RS-SS2]

Originally Posted by Driveshaftshop

Were at PRI displaying and i dident realize how many people dident know the kit comes complete with the Diff housing-mounting hardware-Axles-Driveshaft. most only seem to think its was just the housing. this afternoon there was actually a line of people waiting to look at.....

Are most people looking at the conversion kit or the main shaft?

I'm looking forward to getting the main shaft as well when testing is complete. Should make the car just about bullet proof then.

[Dave Coyle]

Looks like she is very tight in there but great job!!!! Thanks for the pics and info!!!