heads removed How much more to just pull the motor LS3

[ChrisBlair]

I'm late to this party but you took tons of photos...right?

[SeaCompiler]

I just pulled my motor while replacing a lifter. Getting it out is not hard once the heads are off. I used the following $35 part from Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1021/). It made angling it perfectly to mate back up a piece of cake. I used 4 valley plate bolts to hold it with washers underneath and one top (if you do this - make sure the washers do not fall in once you undo them). Not sure how much those valley plate bolts can hold, so I pulled it out and put it back without the heads on. Putting it back in without the motor mounts on is how I did it in order to make mating it up easy and then I just bolted the motor mounts back on before letting the weight sit back down. I painted my oil pan red/orange (and some stickers) before putting back on and a few other items - it was fun (one pic below). I never unhooked the a/c in a way to compromise it - I just pushed it to the side enough - there is no need to completely unhook and evacuate it if you dont mind working around a few lines.

[blue-bayou]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

the rods would have to be resized wouldnt they?

With regard to replacing rod bolts? If so then no, but it doesn't matter. Stock rods cannot be resized. The split crack cap style prevents stock LS3 (et.al) rods from being successfully resized; unless some new technology has recently become available I'm unaware of. Look at the picture. They should be able to be replaced without doing anything other than removing the stock bolts and replacing with new. These rods came out of a stock motor, all evidence indicates that a rod bolt initiated the event. But I also believe my problem was an isolated event and not indicative of ls rods in general. If replacing them is easy and you've got the motor out; it's basically cheap insurance; otherwise don't worry about it.

[Firefighter]

I've never really thought about just replacing the rod bolts on an assembled motor like that before reading this thread. I figured there was resizing needed too. I knew about the issue resizing the cracked rods we have.

What's a set of ARP rod bolts run? $100? If the motor is out that's cheap insurance IMHO.

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[JCunningham]

a $100 here a $100 there. I think im up to 2k just replacing a going bad cam.

[JCunningham]

so are you sure you can reuse the rods if they cant be resized? I have found that disassembling a perfectly good rotating assembly leads to a short life. I havent worked on a LS motor befor.

[blue-bayou]

Originally Posted by JCunningham

a $100 here a $100 there. I think im up to 2k just replacing a going bad cam.

That's the problem with working on cars, the costs add up quickly. You know what, there is entirely too much noise and I apologize for contributing. Stick to the basics and get what you need; try to ignore the rest. Always best to change one thing at a time anyway to know what made a difference.

Also, just because a rod is used doesn't mean it has to be resized; only if it's out of spec. If an LS rod is out of spec it can only be replaced. Replacing rod bolts without engine disassembly, I think, would be ideal. Less chance of mistake putting it back together.

[Firefighter]

Oh I know I've fallen into that same trap. A $500 project turns into $5000.

I'm really just asking because I have similar plans I'm preparing for. That is a good upgrade if you are in there already. I plan to do the improved racing baffle and scraper too, even before I read this thread.

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