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Old 12-09-2012, 08:16 PM   #113
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Originally Posted by blazzin1 View Post
Does anyone know if the 1LE Subframe Bushings and the ZL1 Subframe Bushings are the same or different? If different, which are better?
They are the same. Before I would replace my sub-frame bushes with the ZL1 or 1LE I would use EP1201HDs.
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Old 01-06-2013, 08:37 PM   #114
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Updated with correct wheel hub parts numbers.
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Old 02-26-2013, 07:14 PM   #115
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Nice thread!!!
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Old 03-04-2013, 02:12 PM   #116
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nak3dsnake, where did you buy the 1LE parts from?
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:46 AM   #117
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Originally Posted by linkwpc View Post
nak3dsnake, where did you buy the 1LE parts from?
I ordered mine from gmpartsdirect.com, its where i used to get my parts from. I now use and recommend partstaxi.com. The parts aren't quite as cheap as they are from gmpartsdirect, but you don't get charged ridiculous amounts for shipping and still end up saving money.
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:09 PM   #118
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OK...is it possible to use FE3 front endlinks on the 1LE strut bar? Maybe some sort of adapter sleeve to make the bolt a 12mm? I'm thinking out loud here.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:09 PM   #119
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OK...is it possible to use FE3 front endlinks on the 1LE strut bar? Maybe some sort of adapter sleeve to make the bolt a 12mm? I'm thinking out loud here.
The 27mm front 1LE bar is a very strong bar. The FE3 endlinks are not well suited to the 1LE bar. Are you trying to accommodate the 10mm hole in the FE3 strut?
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:37 PM   #120
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The 27mm front 1LE bar is a very strong bar. The FE3 endlinks are not well suited to the 1LE bar. Are you trying to accommodate the 10mm hole in the FE3 strut?
Not sure...I have a 2011 2LT and have acquired very low mileage 2010 FE3 SS shocks/springs/struts/FELs, 1LE front and rear sways, and 2013 LCAs and endlinks. It looks like the front endlinks fit the struts, but are too small for the swaybar. I think the 1LE uses 12mm bolts. The FE3 front endlinks I have are, I think, 10mm on each end. So I'm wondering if there is a way to use 10mm bolts in a 12mm hole without screwing something up? (even though I'm doing this suspension stuff out of order...lol)

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Old 03-06-2013, 09:29 PM   #121
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Originally Posted by porkrind View Post
Not sure...I have a 2011 2LT and have acquired very low mileage 2010 FE3 SS shocks/springs/struts/FELs, 1LE front and rear sways, and 2013 LCAs and endlinks. It looks like the front endlinks fit the struts, but are too small for the swaybar. I think the 1LE uses 12mm bolts. The FE3 front endlinks I have are, I think, 10mm on each end. So I'm wondering if there is a way to use 10mm bolts in a 12mm hole without screwing something up? (even though I'm doing this suspension stuff out of order...lol)

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You could try a shim / spacer / sleeve if you could find something to fit. You could also order a 10mm on one end and 12mm on the other end set of endlinks from us.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:12 AM   #122
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Is there room to drill the 10mm holes out to 12mm so you could either use 12mm bolts in both ends (same strength) or even 1LE endlinks directly?

Pete - any chance that the 1LE struts used heavier gauge steel for the endlink attachment tabs than the SS did?


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Last edited by Norm Peterson; 03-07-2013 at 06:25 AM.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:29 PM   #123
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OK...Pete, your endlinks are nice! Unfortunately, 200+ bucks is kinda negating an economy suspension upgrade (they would be the most expensive part so far...lol). I found this: Harley Davidson Banjo Adapter

They are around 7 bucks a piece and I think would actually work for my application...might have to shave just a slight bit off. I'm not an auto-crosser and this is my DD. I just wanted "tighter" suspension over the FE2 system. Thoughts?
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:50 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
Is there room to drill the 10mm holes out to 12mm so you could either use 12mm bolts in both ends (same strength) or even 1LE endlinks directly?

Pete - any chance that the 1LE struts used heavier gauge steel for the endlink attachment tabs than the SS did?


Norm

From what I've read, the 2013 FELs are actually beefier and looks like the same part# for all models from LT on up. Since I'm not auto-crossing, I'm fairly certain I won't jack up the endlinks. If I do, I'll just order the 2013 links and drill out the strut hole to 12mm.
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:54 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Norm Peterson View Post
Is there room to drill the 10mm holes out to 12mm so you could either use 12mm bolts in both ends (same strength) or even 1LE endlinks directly?

Pete - any chance that the 1LE struts used heavier gauge steel for the endlink attachment tabs than the SS did?

Norm
Unfortunately no, both use the same strut body. At least mine did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by porkrind View Post
From what I've read, the 2013 FELs are actually beefier and looks like the same part# for all models from LT on up. Since I'm not auto-crossing, I'm fairly certain I won't jack up the endlinks. If I do, I'll just order the 2013 links and drill out the strut hole to 12mm.
True, but there's still the chance yo may hit a bump or pothole and bend one though.
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Old 03-07-2013, 01:40 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by porkrind View Post
OK...Pete, your endlinks are nice! Unfortunately, 200+ bucks is kinda negating an economy suspension upgrade (they would be the most expensive part so far...lol). I found this: Harley Davidson Banjo Adapter

They are around 7 bucks a piece and I think would actually work for my application...might have to shave just a slight bit off. I'm not an auto-crosser and this is my DD. I just wanted "tighter" suspension over the FE2 system. Thoughts?
They would be the BEST part of your upgrade

The washers look like they should work. Make sure you have enough of the threaded endlink stud captured in the nut.

Norm is also right. You could drill out the tab on the strut and use the 1LE beefier links.
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